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My 220 gallon rebuild


MBVette

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So with the new "strainer" on there is now a ton of bubbles in the sump (bubble trap is working) and a lot louder than it was since I dont think the bean animal setup is working well with that strainer. For now I will leave it on to keep any fish from getting sucked down, but will work on a better option.

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So I am down to 5 this morning, and have not found this ones body (holding very little hope he is still hiding)

 

So I think I need a forensics crew to come in and find these darn fish. That is 10 fish gone and only 4 bodies found with no cleaning crew. Where the H-E-double hockey sticks are these fish going.

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ok so I have changed the overflow box a bit and need your advice on how I should leave it setup.

 

I have the full siphon with my 5 minute strainer (this will be made into something better)

and now I just added some mesh over the 90* elbow

 

You can see those here:

overflow2.jpg

 

Now for my overflow box, I dont have teeth, I just have a small waterfall, that I have had some eggcrate in. But now with the strainer and the mesh I dont know if I should keep it there. Anything in my tank can make it through those holes in the eggcrate, and I can see a fish getting hurt being forced up against it. So should I just get rid of the eggcrate, and if I see a fish in the overflow box I just toss it back into the tank?

 

overflow3.jpg

 

overflow1.jpg

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Here's what Tom at glassreef.com did with his smooth overflow. Maybe you could get Adam to make an L shaped piece of acrylic to clamp onto the back of the eurobrace to hold some gutter guard like this.

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17655111&postcount=557

 

Hey everybody, I spoke with Scott on the phone about the necessary setup for his issue a little bit ago, but wanted to make a few notes here for everyone to profit from.

 

A bean animal system, when setup properly, should not need any sort of eggcrate or gutter guard. The water flowing over the Weir (non-toothed slot) should be such a thin layer that the only way fish will get over into the overflow is if they jump. In Scott's case, previously, the level of water flow was a bit too high and this may have caused fish to wash over the weir. With no strainers in place they may have potentially gone on an interesting Water Park ride without paying the admission, but that is still TBD.

 

The intent of having a very thin layer of water cascading over the weir is two fold...one, to prevent fish from washing over, two to maximize the beneficial surface protein skimming.

 

Having strainers inside the overflow box is only necessary generally for the adventurous snail that goes on a safari over the wall or for the accurately leaping fish. In Scott's case, we will simply properly cut the strainer reliefs for the drain and this should rectify his problem for the future.

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Thanks for the time this afternoon Adam. Tomorrow I will tweak the return pump a bit more to lower the waterlevel a little more so that it barely goes over the lip.

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FWIW, I have a false wall/weir overflow on my 3' cube and have just a small amount of water flowing over the edge. Dead silent except when snails, cukes, anemones, or other traveling inverts go over the edge. Fish tend to get curious and end up on the other side too.

A strainer should be mandatory on all inlets to prevent critters from going into the plumbing and/or sump.

It certainly won't hurt to put them on.

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Thanks Rob, I am definitly putting strainers on there. Right now I have a really badly made one that I am going to replace this weekend. On the 90* I put some leftover BRS mesh that I used to make a screen top, I will just have to keep an eye on it to see if it gets clogged up to badly over time. If it does I will try to come up with a plan B there.

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So I just dropped the water level another 1/4" or so (which is going to suck now b/c the cabinet is being built to hide the water line where it was before) and now it is just trickling over the weir. It is literally just trickling over the edge right now, is that correct or should I raise it up a hair more? Also on the return pump I have turned the ball valve so much the return is barely pushing any water anymore do you think this will cause any issues is that ok?

 

waterlevel.jpg

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I thought tuning of the Bean overflow was not done with the return pump, but with the gate valve leading out of the main drain pipe which should be operating at a full siphon. I thought you turn the return pump on basically full blast, open the main overflow drain full with the valve, and start closing it until you get it closed just beyond what it could handle coming from the return pump alone and then your "margin of error" or variation or what you're actually tuning is the second drain pipe and a minute amount of water that should always be sheeting down the sides of that pipe without making a transition to "slug" flow which sounds like a toilet flushing over and over.

 

Is your return pump too big for the size of your main drain? Or maybe the weir is too low in the tank and if you want the water level a bit higher Adam could fabricate a piece of acrylic across the edge inside the tank with some slots on the ends and some plastic screws to hold it on so that the level is adjustable and less coupled to flow out the overflow drains.

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Yes that would work, but you also need the level in the overflow box to be a certain height to make sure that they full siphon is not pulling in air. So it is a combination of the two.

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FWIW, I have a false wall/weir overflow on my 3' cube and have just a small amount of water flowing over the edge. Dead silent except when snails, cukes, anemones, or other traveling inverts go over the edge. Fish tend to get curious and end up on the other side too.

A strainer should be mandatory on all inlets to prevent critters from going into the plumbing and/or sump.

It certainly won't hurt to put them on.

 

Yes, this is correct.. Strainers are definitely necessary for those adventurous inverts/nems or jumping fish.

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So, there is only 1 chromis left and he has ich. Im pretty pissed off at the moment, he is covered in small white dots and the two royal gramma's have now gone missing as well.

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I'm really sorry about your losses. That sucks.

 

Where the heck are the fish? I find it hard to believe they all died and so few bodies were found unless you have an enormous clean up crew. Also with that many dead fish in the tank I would expect to see an ammonia or nitrate spike. Have you had any?

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I have found a collection point where fish were accumulating. I have found a few more bodies at this point but I don't think I have found them all. Some of them could have gotten to the return pump and into the manifold so I would never find them and others can be in spots behind the rock I can't find. But imknow there are only 3 fish left in the tank. 2 clowns and 1 chromis which I don't expect to last the night. I'm going to try and get a qt setup soon and run the tank empty until after new years at this point.

 

With inch/velvet can I add corals and inverts(shrimp/crabs)?

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That's why I am saying new years. Not really 8 weeks but I'm not going to run out on new years and get anything. So really at best I am looking at mid January. I do need to get those two clowns out though.

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And then there were two. I am down to just the two clowns, everything else is confirmed dead :( Guess we will see on the clowns, but I dont have high hopes on there.

 

Im going to be setting up a QT and then hopefully the beginning of October I can get a few fish into that QT so that come January I can start moving forward with the stocking again.

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If you have velvet, you should let the tank run with ZERO introductions for 12 weeks. Nothing into the tank unless it has been QT'd.

Start the process now of QT'ing everything that goes into the tank.

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