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In-line heater


dandy7200

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I needed a big inline heater and decided to build one. This project although as described may be larger than most need but is very simple and can be scaled down rather easily.

 

First I cut a bunch of 2" PVC and rough fit the pieces so I would have a continual loop with each heater in-line to the next. Tee's are used at the top and ell's for the bottoms. 2" pipes were cut 13" long.

 

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Next, I used 1" liquid tite cord grips. FYI, these are the EXACT fittings used on UV sterilizers to hold the quartz sleeve in place. They fit the heater absolutely perfectly, big shocker, I used Eheim heaters for reliability......

 

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1" FPT bushings were placed in the top of the tee and the liquid tites are in for the test fit:

 

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Glue, paint, unions:

 

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Have fun.....

 

I got a box of cord grips if anyone needs one or 8 :biggrin:

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This will be plumbed into the chiller loop. This will feed my skimmer and reactors and then return to the sump. I have a large hayward actuated valve that can close the tank return when temperature extremes are reached and the loop will still be running the filtration while the heating/cooling has a chance to catch up. With 2000w of heat at 1500gph it shouldn't take too long.

 

Jamal, cause I NEED IT :) JK, I am facing some extreme heating cooling issues on this build and this seemed the best way to tackle the problem. I would have just bought aquactinics fireplugs but they don't make them anymore. The next closest thing is so overpriced it is silly, plus I like buildin stuff :)

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:bb:

 

and you guys wondered why I needed such a big power center LOL

 

Got the rest of the heaters today, install, label, clean up the wires, done.

 

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You might want to move that away from the glass door. Would hate to have the neighbors reporting your high-tech pipe bomb....

 

bob

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you need 2000w of heaters? Are you moving to Alaska?

 

I did something like this on my nano to save space. Works like a charm I didn't use cord grips though.

 

pix?

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You might want to move that away from the glass door. Would hate to have the neighbors reporting your high-tech pipe bomb....

 

bob

 

 

lol

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2 different co-workers both went on cruises to Alaska within the last month - I'm so jealous

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Yes. No.

 

I got it now - I finally got up to speed on your RC thread.

Lookin' awesome Dandy!

 

200 nassarius!?!?!

 

jp

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Hey Dan, how have the cord grips held up under pressure? I had someone donate one of those old in line heater canisters and when I put it to use the heater slowly slid out from the water pressure so I bailed out on the contraption (it was actually for an RO unit to bring the water up to the correct temperature before going through so it was handling a lot of pressure). Let me know how it handles full flow as I've been looking into building something like that but was thinking of using a PVC pressure coupling instead.

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  • 3 years later...

Dan,

I found this old thread and had a few questions :). One of the issues I face in my current tank is the amount of time it takes to bring the tank temperature back to the desired temperature after a drop. With your design I am hoping I will not face the same issue on my new tank. I am in the process of an upgrade but when all is said and done I will have 180 gallon display, 30 gallon sump, and 40 gallon frag tank. I currently have 2 x 300 watt heaters and wondering if I need more.

 

  • How many more heaters would you suggest I add to my set up?
  • Do you have any current pictures of your current plumbing set up that this is connected to?
  • How much flow are you pushing through the 2" PVC to ensure the water is always at a certain level?
  • Do you think 1-1/2" PVC could be used or would you stick with 2" PVC?

Thanks,

 

Henry

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Henry,

 

This heater unit is still going strong after 3 years, all 8 heater still function and do so on a regular basis. I have them stepped at 1 degree intervals so first one set at 74 then 73,72,71,70,69 etc. I have a kilowatt meter mounted to the unit so I can make certain all units are operating correctly.

 

If all 2000w are running I can get 5 degree an hour temp rise on roughly 600g water. So, without taking a lot of complex variables into play you could add another 300w and probably be good.

 

My situation requires RAPID heating in a worst case scenario (sump out side, power goes out in winter=250g of freezing water waiting to go back to the main display). So my plumbing is more complex than it would be in a normal setting. I can describe it if you really need to know but it involves relays, actuated ball valves and temp sensors in multiple locations, etc. I have had 2 "worst case scenario's" since the tank has been setup and the fail safes performed as expected.

 

I run approx 1200gph through this heater unit. Again, a guess for you, about half this should work.

 

I like 2", gives more dwell time inside the unit and the cost/space difference is negligible.

 

The water is always at the same level due to gravity, not water flow. Input, output and tee's are all at same level so the internal water level is always constant regardless of 2000gph or 0gph.

 

HTH

 

Dan

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Terrific design, Dan. And a perfectly innovative use for those cord grips. I'm glad that NightOwl resurrected this thread.

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