kngfisher

great picks and nice looking pieces. did you just upgrade the tank and upgrade the equipment? if equipment, what was then and what is now?

you could cut the frag plug down to fit a hole that you do have in the rock or, cut the frag plug down and use epoxy to afix it to the rock...

If you decide on the Renco, shop around.....example, in a casual flip threw my homebrew catalog, they are $65 for the Dual control ... you just have to splice in the plugs or $89 for it fully assembled http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=16667 http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=16666 http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=16664 lot cheaper then the $154 via Foster and Smith http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...p;N=2004+113768

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/atj/index.php Just read a story on Reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05 relating to coral feeding. If you have not read it yet, it is very much worth the time. It even has actual footage of Faviid, Lobophyllia, Fungia, and Trachyphyllia feeding. Accoring to the site: "All photographs were taken using a Nikon D70 digital SLR camera with a Nikkor 60mm f2.8 micro lens and a Nikon Speedlight SB24 electronic flash. The camera was connected to a Microsoft Windows

that is what I use, what issues did you have with it? lot more reliable then ...you have to read the fine print...accuracy +/- 2 degrees

I went from IO to Seachem Reef very slowly .... spaced it out over maybe 10+ water changes.....and am in the process of changing from SeaChem Reef to Reef crystals....again, very slowly. I do have some SPS frags, some LPS frags and two leathers and have been sucessful before but the key is do things slowly if you can....I know, too late now but maybe others can learn for your events.....is things have started to die-off, switching back will not stop the process.....agree with the "let things settle" approach too. Nothing you can do now but wait.

can you show how you cut the U-tube?

If you do manage to save it, it is not an over night process.... zooxanthellae need time to rebuild. I have managed to save a piece of acropora that bleached (more by luck then skills) but the color did not return for almost 6 months. Coloring up nice now but on the other side, I had a piece of green monti bleach on my an no mater how many times i fragged, it just went ahead and RTN'd .... good luck I agree, look for polyps may be the key but, just realize, sometimes things just happen

the one chip and i built was 36"Lx18"Hx4"W.....as for lights, 36" Aqualight T-5

wow, I missed this one chip. any updates?....

very impressive....will have to try the direct feeding method.

"To ensure sterile water using UV light, first start with clear water, and have a lamp and flow rate that are sized to deliver the correct amount of irradiation for the target organism (see exposures list). If a UV light is flow rated for 15,000

Do you have this documented or is it just slowing drain to a point that there are no bubbles entering sump... Is this the "Herbie" method? - install a stubby stand pipe. - install a taller back up stand pipe - put a gate valve on your drain line. - Adjust the gate valve to achieve desired water level in your overflow chamber

Have one, will try that ..... that is until I can find time to swing by your house....might be a while since you live so far away

Well like many others, I have bubbles entering my sump from the main display tank and would like to cut the noise level down as well as reduce the numbers of micro-bubbles being returned to the display. Setup: The main display is a simple 90gal with a single off center overflow measuring 6"x10"x6". Inside the overflow are two durso standpipes (one made from 1.5" PVC connected to a 1.5" ID bulkhead connected to a 1.5" PVC drain and the second made from 1.25"PVC connected to a 1" ID bulkhead connected to a 1.25" PVC drain). My return is run external to the tank via a ehiem 1262/wavySea+ via 1"ID flexible tubing. This setup is fairly strait forward nothing fancy but I get lots of bubbles entering the sump from both standpipes. This may or may not be an issues for those whom have baffles in their sump but my sump in just a simple unbaffled 30gal aquarium. Inside the sump is my ehiem pump, a heater, some PH,temp,ORP probes, and my Octopus Recirc Needlewheel 150 skimmer (same unit as the Pacific Coast Imports 2000). I know I could add baffles/bubble traps to the sump but I would still get the gurgling noise from the air caught in the standpipes entering the sump and I am trying to cut the noise lever down too. Option: I came across this idea for a "Reverse Durso" on line. The idea is to set up a system which allows the air to to escape from the pipe before the water from the main display enters the sump. While this did not remove all bubbles from entering my sump, it did drastically reduce them as well as dramatically reduce the noise level of my tank. (I went with the suggestion of 2"PVC for the drains). I am sure there are other suggestions and ideas on how to solve this problem but this worked for me and am very happy with the results. On a side note, information about this concept can also be found on reef central and some folks have noticed foaming like that displayed by a skimmer.......wow an extra benefit of a cheap inline skimmer to boot....not sure how efficient it is but every little bit helps :-).

gorilla glue....works great......that is if you never intend on getting the two pieces apart

do you have enough room behind the tank for a HOB fuge? I had a nitrate issue on my sumpless 55 and used a HOB fuge (36x12x4) to lower them....worked like a champ and have now built one for my 90.....HOB fuge only needs ~4" clearance behind the tank and that is all I had. very easy and relitivly inexpensite to build or you can buy a kit off ebay that mimic the CPR units and less then 1/2 the cost.

agree, you have 7 different programs....scan all of them and zero out all setting not in use. also, watch the day settings on the programs in use. Very easy to have overlapping programs with this timer.

be careful with the baby clowns and bangaii cardinal.....seeing reports that bangaii cardinals really enjoy a lunch of baby clown. any breeding of any thing in a home reef is impressive in my book. The only thing I have been sucessful in breeding has been xenia....and algee :-)

filling up the neibors toilets......wow don't really think that is a good way to make friends :-)

Eheim 1262 Universal Pump: * Pump Output: 900 gph * Delivery Head: 11`6" Using the following input parameters Gallons per Hour = 900 Drain and Overflow sizes are calculated as Recommended minimum drain pipe diameter = 1.24 inches Recommended minimum linear overflow size = 14 inches These calulations do not make sense because * display has 22 linear inches of overflow (6x10x6) * drain pipe diameter was 1.5" and yet the return pump would still overflow the display hence the experiment with dual drains maybe a 1/8" tried that well modified.....left original durso inplace and left 2nd standpipe open on top....short standpipe few inched under water line...result....durso flowed less water, water level in overflow dropped....water level in display rose... I guess without a durso, I would be cutting down on the amount of tiny bubbles in my sump and sometimes returning to the display....another plus....

1) yes, dursos are the exact same length....only diff is the PVC diameter.....1.25" (with a 1" reducer into the bulkhead then back to 1.25" drain) vs 1.5" all the way into the sump and it is the one with the smaller diameter that is taking most of the water back to the sump for some reason. 2) yes, both are in the same overflow box (is there a calculation that can be done to determin how much water can flow thew the teeth) number of teeth vs distance of teeth spacing vs teeth hight = X? 3) did not direct more water into the display once 2nd durso was put online, just observed water level of display tank....was expecting water level to drop in display as a result of more water being drained into sump. I had cut more teeth in the overflow prior to this change. All teeth are appox. 1/8" wide and 1/8" apart and 1" long (1/2" above water line, 1/2" below the water line). The return is flexible 1" tubing with a "T" and ball valve that diverts excess water back into sump

So al looking for someone who has done this.....I have a dual durso setup in my single overflow (6x10x6) 90 gal display tank feeding down to a 20gal sump and want to increase the drain rate to enable me to take more advantade of ehiem 1262 to feed the display rather than pumping so much water back into the sump. original single 1.5" durso, 2" bulkhead, 1.5" drain (no bends) - {lots of flow but lots of bubbles} ehiem 1262 return pump (in-sump) to wavySea+ diverting water that overflow/drain can not handle back to sump via "T" now single 1.5" durso, 2" bulkhead, 1.5" drain (no bends) - {almost no flow for some reason} single 1.25" durso, 1.5" bulkhead, 1.25" drain (no bends) - {lots of flow but lots of bubbles} ehiem 1262 return pump (in-sump) to wavySea+ diverting water that overflow/drain can not handle back to sump via "T" unable to see improvement from single durso setup to new dual durso setup. wonder why. seems all that changed was that intead of water being split between each of the durso standpipes, the smaller of the two takes most of the load....I guess I have a redundent solution now but did nothing to increase performance as I originally intended....

This is what I have done....I have a 1262 return on my 90 gal ... drain is 1.5" durso inside a 3 sided (6"x10"x6") overflow w/ 1.5" drain. Pump can add more water then drain can handle so I have a "T" on the return diverting some of it back to the sump. I will be adding a second drain into the overflow to increase flow and right now, the return flows threw a wavysea +. Like everything else, it takes planning...... Ideas, some of the water not pumped back to the display can also be used to run a UV, feed a skimmer, etc...and replace small powerheads that drive those units.....the 1262 does heat up just a little so any pumps you can get ride of the better....I have 2 heaters (one in sump, one in display) and can keep a 79 temp without issues. I get a little vibration too so either leave the suction cups on the bottom or use something to isolate/dampen. I have mine resting on the bottom of my sump and even though I used 1" flexible hose on the return, there is still a little vibration....great pump though. If you clean it regularly (i clean mine about every 6 weeks), will perform better then expected......you know it's time to clean when temp in tank goes up :-)...and if you keep chaeto in the sump and it's not baffled properly, do not remove the sponge that comes inside the pump for it will clog ...

If you are interested in a second one, let me know. I have a rock with 2 small clusters well 3 is you count the one cluster having orange and black together.....Black doing much better in my tank then the orange. Polyps come out and it feeds ok but have lost 3 polyps on one side due to feeding issues. (hard to reach from top of 90gal tank) Let me know if interested and I can take pics. Would be willing to trade.