kngfisher

I have used SeaChem Stability in the past...do not really know if it really worked considering I also added 75lbs of LR and 40lbs of LS :-)

wow, you must have some serious flow to hve to be running both those pumps for I have a 90 and can not but crack the ball-valve on my 1262 or my tank starts to over flow..... I have one of there PC lights and luckly another company released the same product (orbit) so parts are easy to come by....the availability of parts is the only risk....do some reasearch and see if another company bought the rights to make that product.

I don't think so...have cut it in several pieces and have yet to see of feel any fiberglass. yes, had to walk over the entire store to find them....I just used the cheap wood shims....comes is pack of ~20 for less then $5. I am not the right person the a silent tank...I was able to eliminate some of the pump noise by placing a piece of foam under the sump and erecting a rubber platform for my return pump...that was the normal vibration of the pump does not transfer the noise to the sump and stand.....i placed the return under the water level and that seemed to have helped too. noise can come from many sources...pumps, powerheads, chillers, standpipe, etc.

I used shims under stand to make it level and then went to HD and got some of the pink insulation board and placed that under my tank and sump..

my xenia goes threw changes some times so I would just keep watch....sometimes looks great, other times not so much....have noticed it splitting too. What used to be one stalk is now two is a smaller piece having totally split off...mine is 1/2 way up my tank and I used to have PC lights (4x65) but now running 2x175 MH lights and lots of water flow (2 x mj1200, 1 x JBJ DUAL OUTPUT 290gph, 1 x mj1200 modded care of mj-mods.com, and not to mention the flow from the sump Ehiem 1262).

It is true, chip and I built 2 of the mj1200 mods....original intent was for 2 on my 90. Then, was going to give chip one for use in his frag tank because 1 might just be enough. Chip on the other hand thinks one on his frag tank may be too much....great mod....almost rips my kenya tree and xenia off the live rock....have to be careful where it is pointing.

I see alot of numbers being thown out here but wonder about actual flow....for instance just because you are using a MAG 18 does not mean you are flowing 1800g/h.....there is head loss and backpressure because of bends in the pipe...not to mention the actual flow thew the overflow teeth/drain. I run a 90gal display with a 29gal sump I have 20" of overflow and a 1.5" durso but the amount of water flowing down the to sump is no where near the rated flow rate of the durso even though I have no angles on the drain and the durso, bulkhead, and drain to sump are all 1.5" The return pump from the sump to the display is via an Ehiem 1262 that I have connected to 1" pvc that splits to 2x3/4" lines back to the display. I do not know how much flow I am getting or how often my water is being turned over but since the ball valve on the return from the Ehiem pump is most of the way shut and the top of the tank is over 5" know I know I am not getting 900gph at zero head (Max Delivery Head: 11`6") which is the Max pump output nor am i flowing the 1200g/h over the overflow and down the durso..... does anyone have a flow meter

....I was the one who donated the bucket o sand .... feel bad for the trasporter (chefthomasr).... that bucket smelled bad .... sorry, i have no more sand.

looks nice....does a lot looks like...and the user reviews seem to be all positive.....i just don't have that much $ burning a hole in my pocket

have you looked at the DIY top-of kits by aquahub? I am using one and it works great....you will need a dosing pump or powerhead....my setup includes an aquaclear 70 (old 802) inside a 5gal bucket (top-off water) being turned on and off via 2 float switches in my sump. The powerhead pushes water to my Kalk reactor that then adds water to my sump.

The whole idea would be to camouflage the powerhead and make it so it could be replaced and/or cleaned as needed.....add in one of the magnetic holders and you could really place it anywhere in the tank without it looking like an eyesore....i guess a hovering piece of rock may look strange though

http://www.reeflounge.com/showthread.php?t=19252 just found this on another forum but think the idea is a good one. Instead of glueing the rubble to the power head, I am sure a mold could be made from plexi that fits over the powerhead like a cage and then the rubble could be glued to that....this way if the powerhead had to be taken apart or replaced, it could be done easily. materials required; 1 powerhead (your choice) 1 bag of LR rubble (can use dead) 1 tube of glue 1 scrap of plexi 1 small torch (to heat plexi for molding around powerhead)

....strange that they list Copepods as a Disease http://www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/treat14.htm

I moved up to a Turboflotor 1000 multi because I liked the versatility (HOB or in-sump) and cost (found on sale ~$150) . There are alot of opinions (good and bad) regarding this skimmer but it has worked well for me. Basicly you have to figure out budget and space. The stand for my 55 was only 8" wide and the ways the doors were set the the hight, made it impossible to even put a 10gal tank under the stand. Even if i managed to get the skimmer under the tank, there woul have been very limited space to take the collection cup off the clean and empty it. keep that in mind too. you need to leave a few inches above the skimmer to allow you to to needed maint. on it. In my view, the simplier the setup is the better. other suggestions for skimmers based on space contrants are; The AquaC Remora (HOB) The AquaC Urchin (in-sump) or the CPR BacPack (HOB) with the Maji-jet mod.

I once had the same issue. I was running a 55 with a fluval 404 packed with bio-media and a CPR BacPac with biobail). Even though my tank had a fairly low bio-load my nitrates were sky high ~100. I went the the LFS (marine scene...did not know WAMAS existed back then) and was told to remove the bio-material from the fluval and BacPac. I too thought it was backwards but it worked....well after a bunch of water changes. now all I use my fluval for is carbon on an as needed basis and was amaized with the results. I also added a HOB fuge and packed it full of chaeto. The fluvals can be useful for chemical filtration and adding to flow of the tank but should not be used for biological filtration. I even pulled the sponges out....lots of nitrates traped there. Oh, I also started vaccuming my sand very carfully. That was then and that tank lost a fight with an AC unit but to make a long story short, above was what worked for me.

I used shims for my 90 gal acrlic. worked great. I did have to double-up the shims but tank is level.

90gal display 30gal sump 7gal fuge 127 total

for scatches, try the Pentair scratch removal kit.....for the outside I use a damp terry cloth towl the kind that one would use to polish a show car with. non scratch.

Well all those who are on the fence about doing this tank tour, I have to tell you, I went over the other night and his tank is incredible. His display tank has a clam bigger than my head and more frags and coral colonies that I have ever seen in a tank outside of the Baltimore aquarium. . If you miss this tank tour, you are really going to be missing something. He is a real nice guy too for those of you whom have not met him. I spent close to two hours learning as much as I could. Trust me, you want to go to this tank tour.

looking for a low maint way to keep alk and calcium at proper level....currenlty cal @ 320 (RedSea) and alk 3.5 meq/L (FasTest). I do not have alot of SPS or LPS frags but the ones I do have, I would like to have them grow. PH 8.2 (Salifert) Nitrate 0 (Salifert) Nitrite 0 (Salifert) Ammonia 0 (Salifert)

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/m...y_Code=creactor Is this a good deal? PACKAGE DEAL Includes C-1502 Reactor, Deluxe Co2 Regulator with Solenoid, 8 pounds C-ARM media. 5 pound brand new M3 co2 tank. Only thing you'll need to have the Co2 tank filled with co2 ga KORALLIN C-1502 PACKAGE DEAL and Tank Price:$566.89

count me in, not exacly far away :-)

5&$*# I really need to just ask more questions before I attemp ANYTHING. glad I came accross this post before using my new SeaChem Reef Salt....I have been using IO since day one but thought I could benifit from the added contents that the reef salt has in it. Now I need to think if I need to buy a bucket of IO to mix the two salts before just added the SeaChem salt and causing harm. Right now, all I have is a few frags and three fish but these fish have been threw too much already....over heated tanks, tanks with no power for days, surviving my dumb mistakes, etc.

normaly I use IO but want to try SeaChem Reef Salt. Anyone use it?

I use carbon from time to time. It is loaded in my fluval 404 canister filter. You can usually only leave carbon (with full tiem use) in the running system for ~30 days after which is has usually absorbed as much as it can. Some carbon claims to last longer but I would stick with the 30 day mark. I run mine on an as needed basis and them only a few days at a time. As for quantity, I tend to use 1- 2 cups at a time and then either SeaChem MatrixCarbon or SeaGel depending on my needs.