kngfisher

is the tank up and running or dry?

I am using a HOB fuge ~ 36"L x 12"Hx 4"W on my 55gal. When I move to my 90 in a few weeks, I will be adding a sump to the system while maintaining the HOB fuge. Am planning on using my current 55 as my sump.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DIY-Live-Rock-Make-You...1QQcmdZViewItem or http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/097531111...220031?n=283155 Anyone ever tried this?

setting up a sump for my new 90gal tank and can use some suggestions. First off, how does one choose a pump for a sump? I have heard ~5x gallons in main tank so in may case 90x5=450 minus amount of watter displaced by substrate and live rock. This being the case, I am looking at the following pump Blueline Velocity T1 External Pump - 540 gph any other suggestions? looking for as quiet and efficent as possible. sump will be under main tank and stand is 36" tall so max hight that water would have to travel is 61" (36" stand + 25" tank hight)

can I get more info on the bad exp?

status: well ordered a 90gal acrylic tank from glasscages.com with 3way overflow and return (10" offset from left center) and having a stand built to fit tank with 3rd door on left side to gain access to sump and other equipment. so final setup if all goes as planned is: 90gal aquarium (48x18x25) 7.5 gal fuge (36x4x12) 29gal sump (30 x 12

I have 3 maxi-jet powerheads on my 55....one in each corner and one in the center. I have all 3 sitting ontop of the prefilter no suction cups...just sits on the sand. I cut the prefilter at different levels to get water movement at different levels without disterbing sand. I also have good motion around and threw the rocks. you could get a few pieces of plexi and make your own hang on tank adapters because the ones that come with the maxi-jet do not go down very far. Its a simple DIY. I had to build one for my heater. suction cups are useless. figure out what level you want the powerheads. measure the distance from that level to the top of the tank. go the home depot and get a piece of plexi about the right length pluss 3"-4'" inches and cut 1" strips use a heat source to bend the top 4" inches in a U so it will hang over the tank and drill 2 holes for a zip tie 3" from the bottom. now zip tie the powerhead to your new powerhead mount.

Ok, well it looks like I will be moving in the next few weeks and in doing so, I will be getting out of my current 55 and upgrading to a 90. Now here is the question, where can I find a good price on a 90 gal acrylic including delivery for the lowest cost possible. I would like it to include a built-in overflow. Have looked on ebay for a good looking stand and have so far found.. http://cgi.ebay.com/New-75-90-Gal-Oak-Aqua...1QQcmdZViewItem but need a tank. Any suggestions?

so I can use a UPS to power my servers but not my aquarium in case of a power outage? What do you do then what the power goes out to keep the tank temp steady.

had it plugged into the wall.

Well my neiborhood just had a power outage and the tank survived but my finnex heater will not work now. I had an UPS on the tank providing power to the heater and one powerhead and long story short, heard a crackle followed by a buring small and now my nice new (purchased 18 Feb) Finnex HC-0800 thermo-controller wont turn on. Anyone ever use this product and if so, anyone ever have any problems with them? The heater was in the tank and the coltroller was mounted on the wall away from any potential risk of water getting in the unit.

The following link is to another site that explains the ins and outs of Building an acrylic aquarium. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_...ic_aquarium.php "Building your own Acrylic tank is a rewarding, cost saving, and enjoyable project. If you have basic carpentry & power tool skills you should have no trouble building your own beautiful Acrylic tank."

I also have a 55gal but w/ 7.5gal fuge and turboflotor 1000 Multi skimmer and I do a 10 gal water change once a week....but same say this the the min and I should be doing 25% weekly

Ok need some help. I have a 55gal tank with one big island of live rock in the center of the tank. I have been told by a few that I need to increase the the water motion threw the live rock. looking down ############################----------------r = live rock #P---------rrr-------P---rrrrrr--P---rrr---------P#---------------P = powerhead #------rrrr--rrrr-rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-rrrr-rrrrrr-----# #-----rrrrr-rrrrrrrrrrr----rrrrrrrrrrrrr--rrr-------#---------------powerheads in use #----rrrrrrrrrr-rrr-rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-rrr-rrrrrr-----#---------2 AquaClear 70s (one in each corner) #-----rrrrrrrr--rrrrrr--------rrrrrrrrrrrrr---------#---------2 Maxi-Jet 1200s (roughly in the center) #-----------rrr--------------rrrrrrrr---------------# ############################ what direction should I point the powerheads? They are all low in the tank and at different hights (3" off bottom to 8" off bottom but should the currents be douncing off the tank walls, rock, each other? Is there a site that explains the best way the setup powerheads for max flow and why?

will do. not far from the house either. current ORP is 320 and already have and ORP monitor/controller (mailwalkee sms125). Just looking for ways to improve my setup. Dont know if I should take the wife to your store though....she has always wanted a koi pond and I keep telling her no because we live in a townhome and no backyard.

So I take it not something to add to my HOT turboflotor 1000 Multi. No, have not done it but was thinking about it. <AquaMedic Ozone 25>======<turboflotor 1000 Multi>=====<55gal tank>

Hello and greetings to all. I have had my tank up for 5 years and to this point it has been more out of luck then skill or knowledge I am afraid. My current setup is as follows: 55gal tank ~40lbs of live rock substrate is ~4" crushed coral Turbofloter 1000 Multi (HOT) Fluval 404 (carbon) CustomSeaLife 48" PowerCompact Maxi-Jet 1200 (used for water movement inside the tank) coralife digital themometer hydor 200 watt heater My levels are all off Ph 7.8 (measured w/ FasTest test kit) Alk 2.5 (measured w/ FasTest test kit) Sg 1.03+ (measured w/ SeaTest square floating arm tester) Nitrate 70+ (measured w/ FasTest test kit) temp 78 f what can I do to improve the water quality of my system without doing weekly water changes. I have no corals (due to water quality I am sure). planning on doing daily 5gal water changes to slowly bring levels back into the acceptable range. The inhabitants of the tank include 1 sailfin tang 1 azur damsal 1 blue damsal 1 royal gramma 2 Percula clows 1 Bangaii Cardinal 1 coral banded shrimp unknow number of snails and crabs all inhabitants act normally even though water is off (now you know the luck part). I do not have the room under the stand to setup a sump so I have invested in a refgium (12x4x36) but what else can I do? Below is a list of items on my wish list but before I buy them, can someone give me some guidance to see if I am looking in the right direction or should I be looking a different equipment to better help the overall health of the tank. -wish list- Coralife Turbo-Twist 3X - 9 Watt UV Sterilizer w/Tunze Universal pump Mini 5024.04 AquaMedic Ozone 50 Milwaukee pH/ORP Controller Combo Pinpoint Salinity Monitor w/prob new bulbs for existing CustomSeaLife 48" PowerCompact Can someone please help me.