kngfisher

Is is possible to se a pic of the entire sump? I also have a 90 with a 29 sump but have yet to install any baffles. My current simple buy highly uneffective for fuge use is as follows. far left (fluval 404 return) outside sump w/ carbon [use only as needed] left side (TurboFlotor D1000 skimmer) [in-sump] center ( drain from display tank ( 2.25" PVC straight down from 2.25" bulkhead) into area with extra live rock that I had from my 55. right side ( return to display tank via eheim 1262 ) could use help on measurments of baffles ( hight and angle)

how about cleaning the outside, what is safe to use? I am looking at the Aquatic Aide "Cornermag": magnet cleaner for glass/acrylic. Add says Will move around corners inside tanks. Built in scraper for coraline algae. 2" x 3" anyone used one?

try this link http://www.3reef.com/sand.shtml

www.hollingsworthscwc.com That is who built mine, you can come see it if you wish. Great workmanship. I was able to customize it to my needs. 36"high extra door on side for easy sump access. Great to deal with.

Dont feel bad, my AC quit and came home to house at 95+ death toll 1 Banggai Cardinalfish 1 Sailfin Tang 1 royal gramma 1 Blue Damsel 1 coral banded shrimp only survivors 2 clowns 1 yellow-tail damsel some snails some crabs

I did not cut them, the overflow was done for me by glasscages.com now that the tank is running, how would one increase the width of the slots? I have a dremel....would a cutting bit to the trick? looks like they just used a circular blade to do it before they glued the overflow together.....what about fish in the tank?

How does one determin the size of the teeth and proper spacing f an overflow? Mine seem a little close together..I wonder if this is slowing down the GPH of my overflow. The attached pict is of my Acrylic 90gal with 1.5" Durso and 1" return

will call sunday.....today just flew by.

yes, if I could see things 1st hand, that would be a big help. Also talking to someone face to face is alot quicker than my typing. what is your avalability this weekend, I live in the tysons coner area.

Ok, I have an idea... Use fill as a send drain and then use something like the "customFlo" by pentar aqatics (http://www.pentairaquatics.com/products/detail/customflo.html) for retuning water from the sump to the main tank. would this work? current 1.5" dorso -> 1.5" bulkhead -> 1.5" PVC drain -> sump sump -> Ehiem 1262 pump -> 3/4" pvc -> 1" bulkhead -> 3/4" fill -> 3/4" loc-line -> Loc-Line 3/4in Y Fitting -> two Loc-Line 3/4in Round Nozzls proposed 1.5" dorso -> 1.5" bulkhead -> 1.5" PVC drain -> sump 1.25" dorso -> 1" bulkhead -> 1" PVC drain -> sump sump -> Ehiem 1262 pump -> "customFlo" Any thougts?

I use an auto feeder off and on...It's sort of like playing rulet though....can either work great or set you up for disaster. The one that I have had the best luck (flake food only) with the Hydor

That just happened to me....well AC tripped a breaker and walked into a house and 55 gal tank at 96 degrees. Lost all but 3 fish....:-( and those might not make it past the weekend. The only good thing I can say is that my 55gal was a fish-only tank....I guess I know the reason for a chiller now.

Does anyone know how or had to mod their overflow to increase the flow from the main tank to the sump? I have a 90gal RR with 3 sided overflow and two bulkheads (fill 1" and drain 1.5"). The drain has a dorso standpipe made from 1.5" PVC and the PVC from the 1.5" bulkhead is also made from 1.5" PVC (no bends except were it meets the water level of the 29gal sump where I have a 1.5" Long Sweep 90. The problem is that my pump Eheim 1262 is feeding much more water from the sump to the main tank than the overflow can handle. To prevent this, I have a 3/4" line from the pump to the 1" bulkhead and then a 3/4" fill out the top over the overflow split to 2 lines w/nozels pointing at each front corner of the tank. I also have a ball valve on the fill line ~12" above the pump (before the bulkhead) but I have to turn it only about a 1/3 open or water starts cascading over the top of the overflow rather than threw the notches. Anyone else have this problem? setup 29gal sump (30 x 12

How healthy is the water in your tank?

Not to worry, you are not the only one in this position. I too am in the middle of such a move. I am selling my townhome and have moved into a new home. With my townhome on the market and the market being is it is, this is giving me the option of taking things slow. Anyway, I too am moving from an exiting 55 to a larger tank old tank....55, HOB fuge, aqua medic 1000 w/o sump new tank 90 (reef-ready) w/29 gal sump current status setup new 90 (still playing w/ pluming....forgot to add a ball-valve so flow in from sump to tank was more than from tank to sump thanks to an eheim 1262) added LS and base rock, RO/DI salt water, 2x MJ 1200 PHs and have been running for 2 weeks like that to cycle. Have been testing to see how cycle in progressing. I have been removing some LS out of the 55 along with a few large pieces of LR from the 55 (yes fish are still in the 55 along with my HOB fuge) and adding them to the 90. I think I am on the right path...

Anyone used one of these? http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp?PageA...PROD&ProdID=279 would it be too much light for a 90gal I do not have any corals as of yet, new tank but would like some in the not too distant future

no, I have a mac but looking at it, it looks good. I am currenlty trying maquarium (http://www.everydaysoftware.net/maquarium/)

This is the one I am using http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...Y_BIN_Stores_IT works great. Comes unassembled but with the glue and instructions.

is your tank in a wall or closer that 4" from the wall? I have a HOB fuge 36"L x 12"H x 4"W and it works great on my 55. It is packed full of chaeto, and pods, some rock rubble for good measure. I found it on ebay.

How new is your RO/DI unit/filters? I just got a new RO/DI unit and my TDS meter at the 1st few gallons read ~4....after that, it has read 0. ~146ppm in to the filter and 0 ppm out of DI side. I have not taken a reading before the DI filter yet, still playing around with the unit Unit is a Air Water and Ice Typhoon III 5 stage TDS meter is made my HM Digital TDS-4/4TM (came with filter) water pressure in to the filter ~80psi water temp into the filter, 22c

another note about purigen......make sure filter mesh bag is shut and can not open...little white beads go everywhere. Did not....should not kill any fish if they swallow some but still not a good idea. If you do get some in the tank, the best way to clean them up is to attach a quick filter to the powerheads in the main tank. the beads will stick to the filter media and all will be happy again.

my Nitrates were 80ppm yes 80. to get mine down i did the following 1) removed all bio balls / stones from my canister filter 2) 15 gal water changes every week for 4 weeks (instead of my normal 15gal / month) 3) added a fuge and added lots of chaeto 4) vaccumed substrate. the above woked like a champ on my 55 gal

on my current 55 I am using a Turboflotor 1000 Multi (yes, its working for me) and a 7.5 fuge packed with chaeto. My new 90 will again be using the Turboflotor 1000 and existing HOB fuge. I will also be reusing the 55 but as a sump with a section carved out for an additional fuge. I agree, the chaeto has done wonders from bringing my nitrates in line.

so, your suggestion is just enough substrait in the main tank to look nice and as much live rock as I wish and in fuge or remote tank....6-7" of substrait for DSB

Am setting up a new tank and was wandering the prefered method in use by fellow aquarists. In my current 55 gal tank, I am using the Berlin method w/ some carbon filtering and a 4" sand bed. 50% of the live sand is covered by live rock. I am in the process of moving to a 90 gal tank and am trying to decide on staying with the Berlin method or adding a plenum as in the Jaubert method ( yes, I know more of my sand must uncovered). My question is this, which method is better at reducing nitrate? In my existing tank, I used to have a high nitrate levels until i figured out that my sand bed and live rock was full of waste and needed the be cleaned. Once that was done (durring water changes) my nitrates dropped. I also know now that I needed more water movement in the tank to prevent settling of waste on the bottom of the tank but now, since I am moving into a larger tank, I have the oppertunity to inprove my setup. So the question remains, what is the best method to use when setting up a new tank?