kngfisher

KH director uses all 4 heads of a doser. Input sample is 1, waste water is 1, testing solution is 1, and dosing alk solution based on measurements takes up 1. Another Crazy suggestion is a reefbot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GHL 4 head doser would be my suggestion as well. Easy to get parts and very dependable. Some good dosing containers and some GHL magnetic stirrers so you can auto dose via the GHL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I do wish it was more flexible but I would not switch back to apex. Is ghl as user friendly…no but my ghl has been rock steady and never just dumped my configurations or rebooted corrupting the config in the middle of the night. I won’t even go into the issue with the eb8 and misc sockets not working, their batch of temp probes that were not watere proof. Yes, ghl is a pain to get setup and they really need to support a wired network not just wireless (2.4ghz only) but it has been very stable for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a few months old now but do you still need help? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also have the ghl breakout box that I plan to add additional float sensors to so that my skimmer shuts down if the cup gets full but have not done that yet.

I have the flow sensor on my pump feeding my UV. If the pump Flow sensor goes below a 150I/h the socket for the iv is turned off so the bulb does not run without water. I also control my ozone with my ghl monitoring the redox to either turn on or off the socket. I have a temp prob in my sump controlling the heater and another temp prob in the display so I can monitor both the temp in the sump(in case a pump locks up and heats the water...yes that has happened).

Full system specs profilux 4 doser 2.1 slave dkh director profilux touch 3 level sensors (1 optical/2 float) 1 leak sensor 1 2000l flow sensor add-on card (digital temp and ph) my ato is separate however I have a level sensor in my top off container so the ghl sends me an alarm when the container is low. The readings have a been very stable and works fine with virtual box. I do still miss the ability to use simple “if” “then” statements however since the ghl system has not let me down I can’t really complain.

For those that have thought about switching from an apex unit to an ghl profilux 4 unit. All I can say plan ahead. connectivity: The profilux 4 unit is wireless only. There is no option for hardwire Ethernet unlike the apex unit. Make sure that your wireless network access point has a strong enough signal to the profilux unit or you will have issues controlling from your phone or the myGHL site. app support: the myGHL app it nice. You can see the status of all probes and their colors will change based on thresholds that are set on the main dashboard however you have to go into the probe settings area to see the actual threshold. Mac compatibility: the GHL initial setup has to be done from the ghl control center application which is not compatible with OSX. Yes, setup can be done from the profilux touch accessory but it is a pain. You will need a usb cable and virtual windows install to setup the unit and follow the ghl documentation. setup: unlike the apex unit which is very intuitive and allows for simple “if” “then” statements, the profilux control center forces you to setup control / switch channels and establish relationships with processes. Once done everything works and is stable but it would have been easier if logic was more intuitive. Vortech control: works however you can’t see on the dashboard what program is being used or current speed. led lighting control: not many 3rd party led lights are compatible with the profilux 4. Apparently the older profilux units were compatible with the aqua illumination led units (I still run 4 of them) however according to ghl, the commutation protocol is old and obsolete so they dropped support. I did have them setup with the apex however the connection between the apex and older ai units were inconsistent and frequently left the lights in a half on or off state when dimmed at night. There is support for dimming but have not figured out how to make that work.

The fans on these are cheep. Been running 4 gen one units since they came out and can tell you to always keep a set on hand. Salt has corroded a few sets on me over time due the thin or lack of insolation where wire connects to motor of fan. To fix this I use a very small amount of silicone at that joint. Don't get any on the blades or could cause out of balance and/or prevent fan from turning. I like that these things are modular as you can replace all parts easily. I have rebuilt my original sol units to the sol blue but one could update them to the 52s if they were willing to spend another $299 per unit....sorry off on tangent. Yes the issue is most likely one or more fan. The units try to shut themselves down if they get too hot as to protect from further damage. Nice feature but annoying. Also I removed the fan cover grate on mine as I had noticed sometimes the fans get stuck due to warpage of that part causing over heating.

Guess I am just catching this. Being a AI gen one owner I liked that AI offered their products as modular as they did. I upgraded my gen one to their sol blue setup and was thinking about their next modular upgrade options. Oh well. I guess I better call and get some parts for my 4 units before these are no longer a supported product. Been running the AI modules for 5 years.

One thing to note if briopsys/ hair algae is not going to care that much if lights or no lights. If not that type then lights out May reduce but not cure the problem. Also test the water you are doing the water changes with. You may be unintentionally feeding the issue. A book that I worth the read is "algae, a problem solver guide" by Julian sprung. Isbn 1-883693-02-0

I have done the backpack thing many times. Even did the ship and sub with a kid in the backpack. Just remember the kid when ducking. It just not your head.

Marine scene has always been on the high side for livestock and dry goods. The difference come in with the quality. Everything live I have gotten from them has always done great so I don't really mind that much.

Been running a 4 module ai unit for 3 years. It started as a gen 1 unit but converted all 4 modules to sol blue about 6 months ago.

One easy way to see if it's time to change the di, take a tds reading before and after the di chamber. Exhausted di resin will add tds back into your product water.

Have been running 2 mp-40w units for almost 2 years at this point along with their power backup solution(not the icecap unit). These work great as long as you maintain them. Support has been good. I did have issues early on but that was caused by the wetside not being put together properly and seizing or when I tightened down the axle nut too much. Support both times was good. If you are looking at these my suggestion is to buy an extra wetside so you will always have a clean and hopefully working unit.

Before you replace your filters you need to look at your rejection ratio of your membrane(s). For example if your membrane can only reject 98% and the tds of the water entering your unit is high for instance mine is 174, it would be very unlikely that the filtered(product) water would ever be 0.

I tries this last year without much luck. Then I tried the vodka posing without much luck either. The things that I did notice was that withy bryopsis outbreaks was that my cal reactor was running at a affluent ph of 7 and that my magnesium level was very low (1050). The only thing that helped was bringing my magnesium level up to closer to 1500 using Kent tech-m. Brs magnesium (mag chloride/solphate ) did nothing to kill bryopsis. Good luck.

some say 24th hours while others mix and use right away. I use a paint mixer on the end of a drill the mix the water and salt then let is sit for a few hours. Dont stress to much over it.

I use a few things.... 1) One APC 1500 powering one Tunze 6045 2) One Vortech Battry Backup unit powering two MP40w pumps 3) One Battery powered airpump (plugs into wall and only runs on battery when power is off) With this setup I can run for about 6-7 hours without much issue. All I really care about is water movement inside the display tank and making sure that CO2 does not become trapped in the water column . Plenty of water movement and surface braking. Longest power outage so far has been 5 hours. Too lazy to buy a generator and no place to put the darn thing right now other then leaving it out in the rain :-(

I dont have one of his custom systems however I have been running a AquaIlluminations LED system on my tanks for over a year now and could not be happier.

on my 90 I was using a eheim 1262 worked great. much less heat then a mag pump. I at one time had a quiteone 2200 again little to no heat but the eheim is just a stronger pump. I then switched to a red dragon 5m3 :-). on this one I had used this one pump to feed the display, the fuge and my calc reactor :-) expensive pump but no noise and no heat

if a probe has a BNC connector, you should be able to use it on the AC3.

um, no they do not. I have a 1262 and ordered an impeller that was supposed to be for a 1260 / 1262 and when I got the impeller it was labeled 1260. Ok, no problem I thought, they take the same impeller. Well after removing the impeller that came with my 1262 and comparing it to the new one labeled 1260, I noticed that the fins on the 1260 impeller were smaller/shorter then the ones that are used on the 1262 impeller.