gmerek2

You take off the bracket that comes with the reefbrite because it's not in the right position for mounting. Then take out screws on the bottom side of ATI for mounting to bracket Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know this is old but took a couple pics for anyone that runs across it.

Sorry to hear about the hard times :( I just made the switch to T5 a week ago just out of curiosity. No problems yet. Ill be happy to help you out with Birdnest after hitting reset button

This tank is new right? Just going through its ugly phase? I would ride it out. Skimmer is going to help. Also switch RODI filters. Im not sure if my skimmer upgrade got rid of mine or if it was the suggestion of another WAMASER to change my RODI filters. Doesn't the blue bottle kill a lot of the good bacteria also? causing worse problems

I got a reef octopus NWB250 laying around if you want to test drive it

Just more proof that water quality and stability is the key.

Congratulations ! Wow! I bet this is one of the most amazing LED SPS tank in the state of Maryland.

Fire fish are jumpers so a top is a must. the lesser you keep your bio load the less work you will have in the future. It also depends how good your skimmer is.

We bought that $20 cleanup crew deal a week ago. It was well worth it for the money. Of course there was a dead one and an empty shell or two. Exptect it from anywhere

Put a beer glass in there with a piece of shrimp in bottom. They go in and can't grip out. You may be able to save that stylo with time

But how many of those people log in? How long will the site let a user go inactive before it deletes the account?

I second that you probably won't need one. I have two 500w heaters in my 125. One is on almost year round. Is tank going in basement? Will the MH fixtures be in a canopy? We don't even use A/c in the house unless it gets in the upper 80s but the basement always stays cool. A tank can get up to 83 without worry possibly warmer. Sorry to bring this up again since you want to be safe it's probably safer to have one.

i need 4 boxes. I can text Richard tomorrow to see if he can do one.

I agree with this. I made an alk mistake a long time ago and it took a week until I started to see tissue necrosis on a couple SPS. Since This was run through slow doser you should be ok. Frags in my experience are most at risk to fluctuation.

I bought one last night

I prefer a shimmer from LEDs or MH but t5 give the tank a crisper cleaner HD look

I'll be devils advocate here since I agree as long as they are done properly. However I believe QT kills a lot of fish. How? They are thrown together quickly in panic, not cycled or ran properly and people don't realize meds can kill of some of this good denitrifying bacteria. There is not as much surface area for denitrifying bacteria, they are smaller than DT and rarely do I see them properly cycled. So ammonia is #1 killer in QT tanks. Not near as natural of an environment so they stress and barely eat. Just save the expense and buy from ERC. Even if the tank is already infected at least the fish is parasite free for the most stressful part (the first few days) and if they do contract the disease by the time it's full blown their immune is able to fight it off.

marine ick has a part of their life cycle where it is free swimming correct? Is it possible that one of these free swimmers latch onto our frags or can make it into our water with a single drop of water from an infected tank? Probably not likely for those that dip but I think it's possible for those that add a piece of live rock, frags, inverts from infected tanks or fish stores.

The outbreak is due to stress and or poor water parameters or tangs shoved in smaller tanks than what live aquaria reccomends. Usually that stuff can't be fixed leaving them in the tank. So they have to be treated. The experienced reefers with aged tanks and excellent water quality may be able to get away with leaving them in. I pull the sick fish only. Put them back in and all is good second attempt. The right thing to do though is pulling all the fish with profalactic treatment for required time

I don't know much about black ick. But I can say Do lots and lots of water changes or ammonia will get the fish since buckets and QT tanks usually aren't cycled and handle large bio load. Research read and read

Are you looking for the high concentration formalin? I don't think they make it anymore. Not sure though

It's just as much work to sell all the stuff so I moved it all. I'm really attached to the fish and coral though

I had snails activate and flood my sump with the JBJ. I removed snails and havnt had problem until a crab played with sensor. How does AVAST sensor work and has anyone had problems with false activation on them? Sounds like it's time to ditch the JBJ

uhg what a nightmare. I don't know what I will do when this bad boy dies. It is cool how its free food for him another free food source he loves is chaeto and spinach!

Desjardini sailfin tang eating bubble algae like candy. The rock came from my sump. I should mention that these fish need a 200g or larger tank. for smaller tanks I have seen emerald crabs do good work.