wangspeed

A siphon is the only way to guarantee silence. I run my overflow on my 90 in a Herbie setup. -- Warren

Is there a fan dedictated to the LEDs? The inside of an ATI housing is meant to run at much higher temps. -- Warren

Oops, was going to say, someone had an RLSS 6i for sale for the longest time on here. It's an awesome skimmer, and I'm super happy with mine. Too late.

21 LED USA has a cheaper version than the branded Current ones. I am using two to adjust color in my tank and I'm quite happy. They also have a pro version with 3W LEDs. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Having used optical viewfinders and good EVF, I'll never go back. I love my Olympus EM1. Smaller and settings are no longer a mystery to me. WYSIWYG from the EVF to the captured photo. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The brittle star is reasonably large. I don't see any fishy remains near the hole though. Generally I see the green brittle get a bad rap. Mine is black. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks like ridetheducati's tank, in an earlier form.

Go away for a week on work travel, and of course stuff goes awry. First, my skimmer goes nuts 3 days into my trip, and Piper27 has to come rescue things at my house, since my wife almost refuses to deal with the skimmer, although she very kindly emptied it the first time it overfilled. Looks like the venturi clogged, because I cleaned it after I got home, and it is back to normal. Next up? My jawfish is missing. Totally missing No sign of fish jerky. He's been gone for almost a week now. He's never missed a meal before. Can't find anything in the overflow. Tank has mesh cover that my wife doesn't even move. This all probably started because my brittle star decided to occupy his home, and kick him out. He's since been moving from place to place in the tank. The brittle star takes weeks to move from one location to another. Guess this stressed out poor Jaws.

The most common problem with pellets is that the amount of pump needed to keep the pellets from clumping is likely more water being processed than you want. This results in the corals starting to die. I prefer being able to dial in the effluent while having independent tumbling of the pellets. Malady has a recirc kit too now. -- Warren

Reef Dynamics for me. Pricey but worth it having easy to modulate recirculate. I would not use a non-recirculating reactor. -- Warren

It doesn't matter too much if you cut the primary too low. I kept cutting mine lower because for the first few months it would change. Of course I would be out of town the very few times a year that I travel. The only thing that you need to take into consideration if you cut it lower is that it will affect how much water drains into the sump when the return is off. The height for the emergency should be a touch lower than your display's normal level. That way if it starts to trickle down the emergency it will still skim off the top. If it is too high, you'll get film on the top of the water. -- Warren

I have the DC12000, and would caution that it is far louder than any of the other DC pumps that I've tried. It has a hum to it that is much louder than 6000 and below. If you keep the speed down, it isn't too bad though. Still, it is something worth noting, and I see that even Fish Street warns about this now on their Jebao pump page.

Nice! Glad the procedure helped I bet there are a lot of DC pumps out there that are in this condition. Just set to the wrong sensitivity. There was a big batch like this, it seems. p.s. sorry if this double posts. Terrible connectivity here in Paris.

He's got a 90. Should just be a single overflow. I wouldn't settle for anything less than full siphon. Quiet and efficient. After the initial slime buildup, it has been extremely stable.

Kinda sounds like it thinks it is out of water. They had some issues on this water detection safety thing, and some of them come set incorrectly. Make sure it's set to pump mode which is least sensitive. Chris @ Salty Supply passed this onto me. 1) Disconnect all cords from controller; 2) Press the "+" and "-" at the same time and continue to hold; 3) While still holding down the "+" and "-" buttons plug in only the power cord to the controller and let go of the "+" and "-" buttons If it is DC4000 water pump controller, Light 4th and 5th, from left to right, will be on. If it is DC4000 skimmer pump controller, Light 3,4, will be on. If the controller in customer's side is light on 3,4, then please press "+" button twice to let light 4 and 5 on, then disconnect controller again. Repeat above and make sure the light 4 and 5 is on, then disconnect again. Connect every cable to the controller, then try the pump again to see the water flow.

You could cut it with a low profile pipe cutter. The kind that you spin around and around until it cuts the PVC. Make sure you clean it very well before you stick it in the tank though. I'd also advise a strainer. If nothing else, it helps keep algae from growing inside the PVC due to blockage of light. You're implying that your new return would go over the top though, right?

One eyed Laboutei wrasse for me. Jumped out of the tank 3 times, and on the third time, he wound up with pop eye, and it popped, or some other fish bit it off...

I think I used like 2 and a half bags. You can use less if you place the rocks first, and don't have anything like a jawfish or heliochoeres wrasse.

Greate questions! I'll try to address them. 1 - I'll have to measure the heights when I get home. I'm travelling for work this week. I'm happy with their heights now. I just have them slipped into the bulkheads w/o gluing them, because I knew I would probably want to adjust them. I adjusted the lower one a few times, because I got tired of it being too sensitive to water level. However, now I run it closer to the high mark to reduce noise of water flowing over the overflow. I really like the straight pipe approach as opposed to a downturn, because it starts the siphon so easily. Just make sure your emergency is equal or larger diameter, and do not go too large on your primary pipe, otherwise it will be a pain to adjust, even if you have a gate valve. 2 - I think I used 2 or 3 bags. I forget. I put in a little more, because I have a jawfish and had a melanarus as well. Not entirely sure what happened to my melanarus, but he croaked, so the jawfish and goby/shrimp pair are the main reasons I haven't siphoned some sand out. The size is perfect. I don't get any buildup of stuff on the sand. Not even cyano for some reason, but in the event someone stirs up sand, it settles very quickly. 3 - Yeah, they are aqua mags. In my tang, coralline is a bit of nuisance almost. Anything I put in turns purple/pink in probably under a month. The one on the left has been in there near the start, and the one on the right just went in last week or so. 4 - I feed heavily with frozen in the morning one time, and that's it. I have a mish mosh that I make from Cyclopeeze, Roggers (which I don't like, due to the way in binds together), PE Mysis, and Larry's. In the future, I will probably just mix LRS, PE mysis, and Cyclopeeze. I like the variety of sizes due to the fish differences. My wrasses obliterate anything that hits the water if it stays chunky, so I need smaller things like Cyclopeeze, and broken up parts of the LRS to feed the anthias. Once in a while, I will put in some Reef Chili as a treat for the corals and anthias. The Bartletts are pretty stout, and don't seem to have any issues with being fed once a day.

Tropic Eden reef flakes are very nice. It is what I used. Even nicer than Caribsea Special Grade. -- Warren

I just went from Zeostart to BP. Too early for me to tell but I got sick of manual dosing 2x a day and shaking the rocks. I'm using a recirculating reactor so I can cut the effluent. I've always had near 0 nitrate and phosphates though. -- Warren

I'm quite happy so far with the non pro version. Reef Brites aren't easily dimmable which basically put them off my list immediately. Since my T5s should have enough par for any SPS, this is really just for a mild color shift. I actually take pics with the strips off since royal blue LEDs make camera sensors go crazy. Another side benefit of going T5. I do run a lot more white than most T5 recommendations. I tried the commonly recommended 4 B+, 1 P+, 1 C+, and I got the Windex look, which I hated. -- Warren

Ugh. What an eyesore. I had them for months. Then I think at least my melanarus wrasse decided jellyfish taste good and decimated the population. He ate something that made him bellyache and spit up food for a few days and then died. Maybe he shouldn't have eaten them. I see one in the sump or display every now and again, but the population seems to be self regulating now. Most of the advice I found basically said they would eventually starve themselves out. -- Warren

Sorry, didn't see the replies. I have been Dino free for months now. There are great threads about H2O2 dosing elsewhere, but basically dose 1ml for every 10 gallons each day. I dosed it into my overflow. -- Warren

Here's the bracket I made to support the LED strips. I'm debating adding more or moving to the "pro" version, but the color is pretty good right now. -- Warren