Jim Mc

Welcome was nice to meet you today

Welcome to WAMAS. I just picked up a Labouti Wrasse so I can show you the booty but not the bounty does that count? Done hijacking your thread now.

I use 4" 100 micron nylon mesh socks. They are much easier to clean than the felt imo. Debatable if they perform as well as felt. Sine you asked where to buy them I know Quantum sells both felt and nylon and every online retailer that I know of sells them.

Welcome, also in Woodbridge

Nice

You mentioned your ph is in the 7.8-8.0 range. I would guess that could be significantly lower than the environment they came from if for example you were at 7.8 and the fish came from 8.3. I would look into ph shock. Given that you have a potential swing of .5 and it is recommended to never adjust ph more than .2 in a 24 hour period coupled with the fact that it can take days or a week to start to see the symptoms I think you should research this topic some. Lethargy is one of the main symptoms of ph shock. If you have a newer home and you just cant get your ph up it is probably because of elevated CO2 levels. I had this problem and had to put a CO2 scrubber on my skimmer. Others just run the line outside but this wasn't an option for me. just my 2 cents.

I have used it in a tank fully stocked no issues

My wrasse seems to love tang poop

This quote thing not working is starting to annoy me. kjamaya that post on RC is what made me do it on my tank except I didn't use egg crate.

Welcome

Welcome to WAMAS and back into the hobby

Alan - no it would have to be empty so that everything can dry.

Ok I managed to be able to at least insert a link as code you can copy to a browser. That is when the tank was new so you can see everything. I used this to cover my overflows and back wall. Marco Rocks prime cuts and their cement kit Great Stuff gaps & cracks Pond Shield Put in any return plumbing you want hidden Cement in the rocks, doesn't have to be touching other rocks Fill in gaps between rocks with crack filler Epoxy crack filler with pond shield I will say when I first did it I thought I made a mistake the crack filler looked like crap. I couldn't be happier now though. Purple algae grows better on the pond shield than it does on my rocks. I have some kind of java problem preventing me from posting pictures or I would show you.

What is the span of your joists? For example if they are only spanning 3ft then they can carry a much stronger load than if they are spanning 16ft. I have a 150 sitting on the second floor of a townhome with 2x10 joists over a 3ft span and I would consider that pushing it. I am very sure had I put the tank say along the room wall where the joists span about 16ft it would not have held in the long term. Jumping will only test if your tank will immediately fall through the floor it wont do much to see if it will hold over time. While the 40psf is uniform safe load the 7 cars thing assumes they are spread evenly over your entire floor. stack those 7 cars and I assure you the floor will collapse. In any event if your worried about the load just add some sister joists and it will increase the load capacity.

I had a similar problem and I isn't over yet but I have definitely turned the corner and it is almost gone. I should say upfront that all things being equal I would follow zygote2k advice. I have sort of an experiment going so keep in mind what I am typing is not proven to work. With that said here is what is helping combat HA breakout. Also I have one arm at the moment so this is a bit of a forced experiment. You have to get it short first not much eats it long. Pull it out with your fingers so you get the big stuff. I use a toothbrush occasionally. Sea Urchins seem to do a decent job when its shorter but they don't particularly target HA for feeding it is more happenstance. I use tuxedo and pincushion. Turbo Snails again when it is short. It seems like most herbivores will eat it when it is not in outbreak. Look to increase your detritus eating cuc. I use tiger tail cucumbers, nassarius snails, bumblebee snails, and I have chocolate chip stars in the sump and fuge (not in the DT). My purple tang, 2 bar rabbit, and lawnmower blenny don't seem to touch it. Started a bacteria dosing regimen. I used zeobak and zeozym. Daily for about 2 weeks then began following the normal dosing. That seems to have it turning around for me, but again I think water changes and the rest of the previous post will help faster.

This kind of merger normally means higher prices for consumers other than that nothing probably will change. Although if AI really does print their own circuit boards that does seem to offer an in-house capability to EcoTech that they didn't have before.

Cliff do a search in this forum for Reef Keeper Elite. I cant make the link work but when I was using a RKE I posted how to program it.

Ok I just couldn't resist. <<<<<<< Better Male

I use ZZ. according to the directions I dose 3/4 tsp once a week. This stuff will last forever doesn't seem expensive.

Welcome

Welcome

Welcome back

If your worried about reaction time I have used Lanthium the reaction is instant as long as there is a calcium source which isn't a problem in most tanks. The biggest problem is not contact time with the water it is getting the crap out of the water after the reaction.

I cant keep anthias for nothing

I talked to here a bit about it after the meet. I asked her about using a BRS two part carbon GFO rector with the first chamber empty and the second with a sediment filter. She thought it would work but that the filter would need changing often. Not sure how long often is but I am still considering trying it.