Jim Mc

I use the 1" on both sides for the drains and the .75" on each side for the emergency with return coming over the top. I have seen setups that use one of the .75" for the return with the other one used as the emergency. If you do run over the top I would recommend a wye like this one. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/georg-fischer-wye-check-valve.html If you are dead set on drilling I think I would drill a return hole in the back for the return.

I have done this twice. I have never reused the sand or the water. I reused the rock once and used brand new dry rock the other time. I know some here may not agree but I would recommend getting the bacteria cultures for rapid cycling. I have never lost a thing even when starting with brand new dry rock. Hope that helps a little. Other members have more experience base don their jobs in the aquarium business and might have more tips.

I do 50% whenever things look different than normal (1/month). If I wasn't doing other things I would also do 10-20% weekly. I went 8 months without a water change after my injury. No loss but the tank didn't look that great either.

yep plus the membrane can look at them here to compare to yours http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulk-reverse-osmosis-filters-systems/reverse-osmosis-systems.html

The both look like carbon to me maybe different micro sizes

I personally like Lyretail Anthias but any Anthias seems like it would work with what your doing.

I think someone might have mentioned it already but if you going this far with it then hard wire in the Apex. I am very glad mine is always wired in although most of the time it is completely unnecessary. Question on why use the reeflink and apex?

When I watched the video the first time I wondered if you were in the club. Welcome.

http://www.rapidled.com/ Is one place for LED parts. I am sure others can provide more options.

If your going to marine scene they will do an ammonia test for you which might help determine if one of your kits is bad.

Minus the hair algae that is a nice looking tank GLWS

I got great customer support from them. Mine was 11 months old when it crapped out. They sent me a brand new one. They will require proof of purchase with a date. If things don't work out for you let me know. The one they sent me is still sitting in the box.

I have couplings on there now so am covered there. I just cant decide if I should pull the trigger on this idea. I keep thinking if it works great but if it doesnt how the #$%% am I going to get the sand out.

For some reason I always want to use my overflows for something more than just a water drain, so here is my latest idea. Fill the overflows with about 6 inches of sand for a mini deep sand bed. Any thoughts? Good, bad, ugly.

I happen to own both of those pumps. While I cant give you hard scientific data this is my opinion of the differences. Both are great pumps. The Iwaki can handle more head pressure. The Dc12000 seems to use less electric I dont run mine on max. I think both have similar amounts of noise but the DC12000 has a higher pitch so is more noticable for me. The DC12000 can be run internal or external but the Iwaki is only external. I currently use the DC12000 on my DT and the Iwaki on my water change station because I have to pump the water up from the first to second floor.

For the pump just change it to advanced and use Fallback On Set On No idea on the clock

I just hope you stay away from the references to two girls one cup. Everytime I see your build thread bad images come to mind.

I'm with epleeds on this. Mag float with an ez scraper super glued on. I've had mine for years and it cuts through coralline with ease never scratched the glass yet.

Since you said you upgraded your iphone and the app wont work I am going to assume it did work with the old iphone. If you were getting a bad gateway error message yesterday that was not on your end it was on the fusion end. I have never had a problem where I needed to use port forwarding or anything like that with fusion, just make sure your apex module is using a static IP from the router. That is your LAN IP probably something like 192.168.x.x. The WAN IP can change mine does all the time with no issues.

I have a Waveline DC12000 from RLSS that burned up. Since it is my main return pump I needed to replace it immediately so I drove up to Quantum and picked up a new one. While there Vince told me I should contact the company because they have great customer support. I wrote to RLSS and told them what happened, which I really don't know other than I came home and it was broke. They asked me to provide proof of purchase which I got from Quantum's website since I bought it there. Then they asked me if the propeller shaft would turn. It would not. The contacted Saltysupply and had them ship me a new one which arrived two days later. I was very happy to get a brand new pump. I haven't decided what to do with the new pump but I may put it up here on the forums for sale with a small reduction from retail.

Two long shots here for you to think about. When my display module got wet it messed up everything. You don't need it so unplug it and see what happens. Turn the power off at the breaker wait about a minute then turn the power back on. These are long shots and probably not much different than checking your refrigerator to see if your car keys are in there.

I have used dry rock (from Marco rocks) on two tanks and never cure it just stick it in and start cycling. I do seed with a small rock that already has growth and the use Purple up or Purple Tech for a few months after cycling is complete. the time is determined b how long it takes me to use up a bottle with weekly dosing.

For me, I simply added gate vales to the drains and they run silent. I am all hard pipe.

It might be a bit extreme and I wouldn't want to test it but I use channel locks regularly to tighten bulkheads.

Mine stay on forever, but I also use the lowes/HD ones not the ones that come with the Vortech