Supernova26

For the LED users out there what PAR range is good for SPS. I understand that each SPS has different reqs but in general what is an optimal range. I just measured my PAR for the first time and at halfway in the tank it was 1100. It seems a bit much but at 500 PAR the tank "looks" a bit dark.

just make sure you have a sump big enough to handle power outages.

Cyanobacteria is a bacteria and it does not require phosphates to grow. Usually good water flow and lighting will do the job.

my experience with gobies is that it takes a few days for them to settle. How long has it been in your tank?

Welcome to the club. Very nice start and i like your choice in fish. Do you mind sharing some details about the setup.

I will take 2 boxes of IO if that's not to late. thanks

Hey guys is this some kind of sps pest. they feel like small hard brown snail shells. I can't tell if its eating the sps or its growing there after the sps tissue is gone. thanks

Very nice corals. Can we please have a full tank pic.

Do you have an apex. You can make one in 15 min. All you need is a float switch.

I have a DIY led fixture and an ever grow fixture from the group buy. The UV (390) LEDs in both fixtures have created this browning effect on the emmitter lens. It was not like that a few weeks ago. Has anyone noticed this on their uv LEDs. I know you can't really see the uv light but this has significantly reduced the output of the uv led on my DIY fixture.

John, try a vinegar bath. It helps quite a bit with the buildup.

I opened mine also and replaced about 15 LEDs. You need to have a just bit of soldering experience but its fairly easy. You could get some thermal grease for better heat transfer. Also make sure the LEDs are aligned correctly. The emitters only have the (-) on them and its very small.

I would be concerned. My RBTA moved after being for 2 years in the same spot. It ended up in the mp40 and made the water nasty. Did you do any changes to the tank? I changed lighting in mine.

Thank you for the responses. The clowns are getting along as far as I can tell. The new smaller guy was just added a few weeks ago and he is not aggressive. Nothing else gets closer to the anemone. I need to get a better camera for better pics.

They are hosting a RBTA. The sick one has been hosting it for almost 2 years

Hello guys. I just noticed some wired marks on one of my clownfish today. They are slightly raised pink/purple looking marks all over the body. I tried to capture a pic but this is the best I could do for now. She is still active and eats like a pig. The other clown or other fish are not affected for now. Do you guys know what it could be and should I take her out and quarantine her. The last fish that was added to the tank was about a month ago. Thanks for your help.

I use the vinegar also and if they have bad stains I use a bit of aluminum polisher. Works great

If DIY is what you want to do I would advice on a mixture of Cree and bridgelux. Do not put them in the same driver. Cree are the top of the line led but to me bridgelux has better colors. For a 90 I would use 60 degree optics for better penetration. 72 LED is what I would recommend. The color mixture is up to personal preference but to many cool whites will wash it out.

Careful with the last firmware update. It took me about 10 tries and my apex went brick mode in between but at the end it worked.

I got my six line using that trap. Works well.

My picasso clowns were there for 1 year on my 120 before I removed the screen top. Hosting a rbta and as happy as they could be. 3 months later the Female jumps out. Some fish just jump. Always keep the top on. I build one with the mesh from brs and works well

I run mine 24/7 based on the ph in the reactor. Keeps allk stable. If I need to increase the alk. I lower the ph slightly. Hope that helps

That looks awesome. Can't wait to see it running.

Sorry for your loss Jan. fish also get spoked when lights go out abruptly.