hypertech

They have very strong magnets. Don't go up a size worried that it won't be strong enough. You wont be able to move it. I have a pirahna float and it's great.

Have you tried just taking the rock out of the water for a few minutes? Many times they will start crawling out on their own. I have this happen all the time when fragging zoas from large rocks.

I like Pheonix 14k and UVL 454.

I'd guess it is some kind of kati/ani system. Those work well, but I understand that the resins exhaust quickly and recharging them involves some nasty chemicals. I haven't owned one myself though.

Be careful with that vodka. If you dose too much you can get a bacteria bloom.

I have and its nice. It is pretty fine though. If you are thinking a high flow/SPS type tank, I'd step up to the select grade. Its basically the same nice white sand as in your link with a slightly larger particle size. The select grade is still "fine" by many people's standard.

Starfire is basically a brand name for low iron glass. You can probably get that locally too. If not, there was a guy on nano-reef that used to cut and ship starfire glass for DIY nanos. I can't remember his username off the top of my head though.....

Naga does some glass work. If you want to assemble it yourself, those pieces are small enough you can probably get them from any glass shop.

Tap the bottom?

That sounds like about 3x too much food. How many fish do you have? Do they eat all that right away when you add it?

The phosphate is going from somewhere. GFO will help reduce it, but the best is to figure out and address the source. Its usually your source water or feeding that elevates it.

It will cycle on its own. Sea chem stability or MB7 seem to be the best of the hurry up products. Also, many advocate against water changes during the cycle as being counterproductive.

It won't work because of the back pressure. If pressure is the problem why not adjust the pressure regulator or get a booster pump?

haven't been there, but Momo in old town is good.

I don't see crocea or maxima so I think that's a sampling and there are others.

OMG, I'm going to start throwing salt around to try to kick the bad juju. I came him to a tank covered in brown algae and bubbles. OK, that's new. Not sure if it means its dying off or if it is a growth spurt from the food dump. I guess I'd better do a water change. So I setup, shut off the pump and start sucking out the junk. Only, the algae had plugged the overflow teeth, the main tank was running a quarter inch too high and the sump quietly overflowed while I was working on it and didn't notice. I get done and go to pump the new water in and discover a quarter inch of water in the bottom of the stand. ;/

Well, I have had a thermostat in one go bad in 4 years. That one time, it heated my tank up over 90 degrees and killed just about everything in it. Hundreds of dollars of damage. A $40 ranco controller or a $100-150 entry level controller would have prevented the loss. FWIW, my stealth heaters are all pre-recall. In the years preceding the ones that started getting recalled, they were regarded by many as a good quality heater. I don't know if something changed in the manufacturing process or what, but the old ones seem to be much better than the new ones.

I try to mix and aerate at least overnight. I don't see how it could "go bad." However, if it has been sitting for a while, evaporation may have altered the salinity so you need to test it and add in some fresh water as needed before using.

Get it out of that category as soon as possible. A heater is one of those things that when it does break, everything dies.

Hmmmmmmm, maybe I will have to make the trek out on Saturday. I would like another clam. What kind of clams are you getting?

A heater on a controller like an apex (jr, lite, etc) is the way to go IMHO. That way, if the temp gets to high, you can take corrective action like shut down lights and turn on fans. You can also send yourself an email alert that something's up. I use a stealth heater on my apex. I've used lots and lots of stealth heaters and they've been very reliable when on a controller (built in thermostat can burn out and it'll stay on sometimes). However, there was a string of bad ones and they had some trouble. I'm not sure that I would buy another. I don't know what I would recommend at this point for the actual heater.

I was sooooo not happy with Marco sand. The rocks are great. I will never buy sand from him again. For the good: it is very white and looks nice. Now, the rest. First, 40 pounds is not 40 pounds. He takes a flat rate box and fills it up. He really should sell it by volume not weight as that is how he delivers it. This works out to be a little more than 30 pounds. On my order of 80 pounds, I was missing 16 pounds and I had to complain on his reef central forum before I finally got a response and my missing sand. Next, the sand was so very fine, it just wasn't workable in anything but a low flow fuge. I understand that he has a different or second sand product now, but the fact that the stuff he was/is selling is so inappropriate for a reef tank, I won't trust his opinion on any sand product.

I had no problem with inverts or anything else when I dosed FWE and I did it at triple the dose. I was prepared with water changes and carbon following the treatment, but I don't think I had enough water available the do as big of changes as I should have. I don't think it is the FWE, but I had a ton of them and I think when they die they release something. Some SPS colonies turned brown following treatment, but they colored back up over the next few months.

FWE will knock them back. I've dealt with them by focusing on water quality and hitting them with FWE to keep the numbers down. I've had them twice. Both times they were small tanks with limited filtration. Once I got the water quality improved they just suddenly disappeared.

That looks like a regular impeller with some mesh tied to it. Seems like something you could do yourself and save a bunch of cash.