swffan

Code can be used more than once Buy (4) 10g tanks + code = 30 Buy 4 more plus code = 30 Get 8 tanks for 60

It's $1g before using the code above. 40g tank = $30 + tax (2) 20L tanks = $30 + tax

I was only able to grab 1 40g and 1 20l due to stock limitations

Petsmart has Aqueon tanks on sale now, with coupon code TAKETENOFF ($10 off $30) this brings the price below the Petco $1 gallon sale. Buy online and pick up in store

One is over $5,000 and one is over $4,000 already with 3 and 4 days to go ... kinda nuts

Anyway possible to get it to control 12 D120's?

Nice looking tank! Good to see some more people "up this way" (aka North of DC/VA/495 etc)

WOW the little WP 25's have some serious power too. I hope they start making a WP 10 or a WP 5 soon or add a ton more control on these current ones other than buying the 12v-24v power supply

For the people that want the new high end equipment all of the above are great. BUT for the rest of the people who don't want to spring $500+ for an LED fixture the Evergrow are the way to go. As far as a business standpoint I don't know the profit margins on the high end units, but I do know there is a pretty decent profit margin on the Evergrow systems and they would sell in volumes. They are cheap and they work great. You can design your own layout, get some fancy stickers and label them " the BRK custom LED". I wish you much success in whatever direction you go with the LEDs!

I would get the 12v-24v power supply for sure. OR you may see one big nice wave with all of the water landing on the floor. Joking....kinda...but from all I read they are very powerful.

I remember my first tank about 12+ years ago, I went to what at one point was the Aquarium Center (I think) in Randallstown Md the day they got their shipment of live rock in. I think I bought 30-40 pounds at $9 or $10 a pound before they even put it in their live rock holding tubs. I remember all types of things growing and coming out of the rock. I had a tank with rock and one Damsel for many months because I was more interested to see what else was going to grow or pop out of the rock over time. All of the recent tanks I've had since then I've used dry rock with a scoop of sand and/or rock from an existing established tank. This new build I am working on I am going to go back to the old method and order a few boxes of either Tonga or Fiji Rock (gets to LAX on the 12 hour flight from Fiji and to my airport terminal (BWI) within 48 hours .....total air time from Fiji to my tank. I don't keep any SPS and there will be no high end corals in this system, just some basic stuff, But I again, am more looking forward to the rock itself.

I can't say I would make an acrylic tank and just use silicone, but the stuff sure as heck sticks like something I've never seen before. At one point I had just a small piece to go, I was pulling and yanking on it so hard to see if it would just pop off and no suck luck. I think I had a better chance at pulling the back wall of glass off that connects the sides before I could get this small piece of plastic/acrylic (whatever it is) off. I think i have cuts and scrapes on each finger, slice on my arm, and most likely some blood smeared in the tank somewhere. (Guess thats what I get for finishing it at 4:30 AM)....NEVER again will I attempt anything like that. I'll just buy a new tank. I think that is what I'm going to do, just remove as much of the internal silicone as I can without bothering what connects the glass pieces together then put a nice thick coat all around just to be safe.

10 razor blades later and the use of an "acrylic cutter" (I think that is what its called) and about 27 slices and scrapes on my hands, I finally got that back wall and the chambers off. They certainly did not skimp on the adhesive when they build this tank by any means. Next question would be, I want to put a fresh layer of RTV adhesive.silicone around the edges just for peace of mind. I do not want to take the tank apart completely and put it back together. How much of the silicone that is currently on the seams/edges should be removed before applying a fresh "security" coat.

Read that one first, his answer to how he removed them "Just razor blade, lot's of cursing and elbow grease" I've been doing that, just looking for a faster easier solution if possible because this is a PITA just using razor blades. I may lose a finger or two at this pace.

Is there an easy way to remove the back wall in one of these without using a gazillion razor blades? Will applying head to the adhesive make it easier to remove? Goal is to remove the back wall and drill the tank. Thanks