dtfleming

talkingreef.com has videos on how to culture them and marinebreeder.org has info also.

You need a starter culture of rotifiers. You can culture them in bucket at a salinty of 1.018-19. They need to be fed phytoplankton and need an airstone and stable temps. brine shrimp you can hatch in a brine shrimp hatchery. They hatch in 16-24hrs. brineshrimpdirect.com has eggs and kits. You can get phyto and rots from Almon on here. So as you can see it is some work to try to grow these guys out.

rotifiers. and New hatched baby brine shrimp, both you will need to culture.

I also saw that Peppermint shrimp can survive off their yolk sac until zoae stage 2.

you can do that. Do not do wc for the first 2 weeks. Air stone with fine bubbles, heater. Your going to need different foods, Rots and nhbbs. marinebreeder.org has alot of good info. You can also get April's book off Amazon. How to raise and train your peppermint shrimp.

Paul I have seen a couple of people raise peppermint shrimp and Sexy shrimp.

Waterdog, Im setting up a breeding system for inverts. Peppermint Shrimp larva go through 7 different stages. zoae 1-7. With them molting at each stage. Peppermint are the easier ones to breed, but I would expect some losses. Like Justin said getting them into their own larvae tank or growout tank , you will have better results.

That was my thought also. Mysis shrimp usually hatch near the back of rocks.

Can u get them to one of the breeders on here, like Almon or dbartco?

Looks good, remember z and p are easy and faster grower, but can be very volatile

Try putting a tile where they lay the eggs. If you look on marinebreeder.org. they made an egg snagger out of a plastic straw.

I google mapped it, and it shows on google maps. Its off New Design Rd.

Yup nice paper.

Hmmmmm interesting

yea you could rinse it. I was rushed to move my tank due to our settlement date getting pushed back. So I did not get a chance to do so.

Very nice

I used totes and bucket to move my tank. I had some premixed SW ready to go. Only thing I would have done different is to dump the sand bed and started new with sand. Keeping the same sand bed that got stirred up has caused me issues.

Joe Thompson on copepodgeek. has a continuous drip of phyto and rots into his copepod cultures using enternal pump I believe this has helped his A. tonsa production and he also separates the adults and eggs.

nanotuners.com, look on nano-reef.com in the lighting forum. A lot of DIY led stuff there.

Hello all, Im in the process of setting up some cultures again and planning on try to breed Nass vibex, Nass pauper, Sexy Shrimp, lettuce nudi ( I've had them spawn before). and Maybe some fish.

this is what I did.

So you guys made me go searching. I knew that I saw some where about a different algae feed for A tonsa. A German breeder on marinebreeder used a dinoflaggette Oxyrrhis marina to feed A tonsa with good results. So in a couple of weeks Im going to setup some cultures again.

No. When you have time, I would search the Dedicated tank forum for ideas on your setup. Like other have pointed out to you, get the return and once you get the sump up and running let it cycle. Keep an eye on your water parameters, pH, SG, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ALK. You should see a spike in Ammonia and Nitrite and then they will drop back down to zero. You may see brown algae start to cover everything these are diatoms.

Scooter, thats what I keep finding for A tonsa is the T Iso or the Rhon. While most were separating the adult and eggs like Chad was doing.

hmmmmmmmmmm. wonder if you can get update drivers for the router.