Origami

Just the float switch? Or the full-up system with the relay, transformer, outlet, etc.? If you just need the float switch, you can get them on EBay for pretty cheap - like $5 each. (Just search on float switch")

So, Chip, where do you get your dolomite? (Or do you use it nowadays?)

Have you considered using dolomite (calcium magnesium carbonate - CaMg(CO3)2) in your reactor? I think you use it in a 1:9 ratio (dolomite to CRM). I'm looking for a local bulk source (it's said to be available as dolomite lime at landscaper stores), but here's an internet source for Aquamedic Dolomite: http://www.aquacave.com/dolomite-1-liter-b...medic-2176.html.

You'll get a lot of opinions on this question. Your own opinion, too, will almost certainly evolve. Jon's advice is solid: Start with basic NSW parameters and go on from there. Here's what I run nowadays: Ca @ 440; Alk @ 10-11; Mg @ 1300 (unless I've pumped it up to 1600 for other reasons). I try to do 10% changes eveey week using IO supplemented to match these target levels. There is some evidence that some corals grow faster at higher alk levels, but be advised that if you're dosing vodka, lower alk levels (e.g. 8) is recommended. There are reports of "burnt" SPS tips at higher alk levels.

Without regular water changes, any unconsumed impurities, bromine and otherwise will build up. Tetra's process is a limestone process using hydrochloric acid to form the calcium chloride. It is REPORTED to be purer but has not to my knowledge been indepently verified. If you find a local souce for name brand Tetra, please post it. Good luck in the search. Otherwise CForce may be an alternative, or the stuff from BRS.

Not sure why they don't carry Tetra. I assume it's because they already carry two other brands. I've never tried their soda ash. But, then again, I don't dose two-part. I use kalk and a calcium reactor, and only use calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, and sodium bicarbonate supplement my change water (IO) and to correct occasional imbalances. Two cups of calcium a day? Or two cups of two-part solution? If the latter, that's about 63 grams of DowFlake or about 50 grams of PelaDow (per 2 cups of RHF's Improved Two-Part recipe). If you take a look at this thread, you'll see that the increase in bromine levels using new Dow products is considered inconsequential in light of what's already present in many artificial saltwater mixes. Inconsequential, that is, if you're performing regular water changes. If not, then any impurities added will eventually build up if not exported by other means. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=1527547

Sadly, this weekend's trip to Scales was my first and, because of their closing, probably my last. I did pick up a nice 15 gallon (drilled) which will make for a nice mantis tank. I was going to drill my 10 g but, for $15 I got a nicer tank, drilled, with a bulkhead, strainer, elbow and barb. What a deal! If you need a QT and don't have one, I recommend that you stop by. I also picked up a handful of fish, including an unplanned adoption of a sargassum trigger that Dave (mogurnda) pointed out to me. Everything's half price.

I've not found Tetra myself, though my search was limited. Tetra has a dry calcium chloride manufacturing plant in Lake Charles, LA, and contracts with a plant in China. The LA was apparently hit pretty bad by Katrina a few years ago and, according to sources in the industry, Tetra went to the Chinese plant for all of their Calcium Chloride as things were put back in order. These same sources revealed that the plant they went to is the same plant that produces CForce calcium chloride. This is interesting because some hobbyists have reported good results using CForce. Though no chemical analysis seems to be available (at least, not like Dow's pre-bromide product which had Randy Holmes-Farley's analysis to back it up), it may be that CForce is a substitute for Tetra. Short Tetra's ready availability, Dow's products (including Peladow) are regaining traction in the hobby as the bromide levels have been deemed tolerable with regular water changes. However, CForce may also be an option. Both Peladow and CForce are stocked at Harvey Salts.

Take a look at your TDS into your system, out of your RO stage, and out of your DI stage after it's been producing for 5-10 minutes. You should see that the RO stage is reducing TDS very substantially - like 100-fold or more. If it's not, your membrane's shot if you're plumbed correctly. In that case, it would need replacement. Who makes your RO system - is it an AWI unit? If so, give them a call or drop an email to them. They'll help you troubleshoot your system and get it working well again. By the way, if it is an AWI unit, do you backflush the membrane if the unit's not produced water for you in several days?

Here's that article I mentioned above that goes over the process of recharging your DI resin. It uses caustic chemicals but if you're up for it, here are the instructions: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-09/nftt/index.php

I use it and have no issues. I also have an in-line TDS meter that I use to signal depletion. So far, I've gotten 5 months of production out of this charge, or about 1100 gallons. I can't tell you yet how far it will go, but the color's only half changed at this point. I suspect that if somebody's only getting 120 gallons out of a charge, then they probably don't have a functional RO system ahead of the DI stage. BTW, the resin is rechargeable (or renewable). An article in Reefkeeping magazine last year outlined the procedure.

Put a piece of egg crate at the top of the last baffle (between your refugium and your return chamber. Make it as tall as the difference in height between the baffles at either end of the refugium and either friction-fit it or silicone it in place. Then, raise the water level in these last two chambers up closer to the level of your bubble trap to reduce the size of your waterfall. It's the waterfall that's creating the bubbles. In the end, if you have these bubbles in your return chamber, they're just going to get picked up and pumped up to your display.

I set up an album in the members' gallery area (there's a quick link near the top of my page that says "My Albums"). Then, I "Insert Gallery Image" using one of the icons in the Fast Reply or Reply box (it's the one that looks like a picture with the number "2" shown). When you click on the icon, it brings up another pop-up window where you can select the image.

I really like AWI for the same reason. They go out of their way to give you good service. It's stories like this, Bruce, that keep people like you and me coming back, and others a reason to give them a try. Thanks for the report.

I used it successfully a couple of months ago. For some reason, it seems that I had to either put some comment into the sales form or I sent them an email to get the discount (which they honored).

Chris, can you get a picture of it to post?

What's the diameter of the impeller and how many layers does the mod call for?

Not sure. The new posts button is working for me, Jan.

My fast flush valve is always closed unless I'm backflushing the membrane. When I am backflushing the membrane, the RO/DI output valve is closed, the DI Bypass valve is opened, and the fast flush valve is opened. None of my valve handles is ever at 45 degrees. They're always either at 0 or 90 degrees.

Forrest, my first mesh mod was done with material from a grill cleaner that I got from Home Depot. It basically looked like some pretty coarse Scotch Brite. Guppychao, I have some P4 Enkamat at home. What are you modding and how much do you need? I picked a square of it up a year ago off ebay.

Yep. It appears to be in the members only area.

Wow. Member since January 2003? Member #4? Welcome back. And thanks for thinking enough to find your fish a good home. Someday, when you're getting ready to get back in, stop by. I'm sure you'll find a generous community ready to get you started again.

You could go bigger but a Mag 9.5 will give you something around 8x turn over through your sump which is probably plenty. If you plan on a refugium in the sump, it may even be a bit high and may need to be throttled back some. You'll have plenty of drainage capacity and the good news is this: While one drain will handle the Mag 9.5 flow with this kind of head pressure, having two drains is good backup in case one drain gets plugged or otherwise fails. In other words, it's good insurance not to exceed the capacity of one drain and to use the second as a failsafe.

There's stuff on ReefCentral talking about using Kent Tech M to raise magnesium levels to 1600 to control bryopsis. Better luck is said to be had using Kent than other magnesium supplements. When questioned about it, Randy Holmes-Farley could not offer an explanation except to say that it might be some impurity that's having the effect. See this thread and read Cliff's (HighlandReefer's) response: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...;highlight=Kent His post reads, "This subject has been discussed in the Chemistry Forum many times. Increasing the mag. level of your water to 1500 using Tech-M magnesium supplement is the magnesium supplement of choice to try to kill Bryopsis, IMHO. The theory is that the Tech-M supplement has some kind of a contaminate in it that is killing the Bryopsis. It apparently only works for Bryopsis according to many reefers who have tried it. This is speculation on the part of the hobbyists who have tried it, IMHO. There is no research that I am aware of that confirms this. If you try this method, I would love to hear if it works for you. IMHO, reducing the nitrates and phosphates may have more to do with it. I have never had problems with Bryopsis myself and have not tried it. "I am not sure if AlgaeFix Marine will work on Bryopsis. I am currently using it for cyano problems and am getting good control with it so far, but have not achieved 100% control at this point in my dosing. This may be a good option if you do not have any fish, corals, invertebrates to worry about. The label for AlgaeFix Marine states that it is safe for all reef occupants when used properly." Other thread references: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...;highlight=Kent << This one's a good one http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...;highlight=Kent