Origami

Looking good, Lynn!

You can section it off by setting another container inside the stock tank.

Mike, I have a 660. I'm in Ashburn, about a half mile from F&F. I'll PM you with contact info. Tom

Sam, since the floor is acting already somewhat as a dehumidifier, the air around the tank is not saturated with water. The effect would help to maintain the differential between the tank and the air, allowing additional evaporation. I don't think Steve's situation is anywhere near the limiting condition (saturation) where a dehumidifier would increase the rate of evaporation in any significant way. While there might be some effect, I don't think it's going to be substantial.

Carpet the floor. LOL. Really, though. I'm not convinced that spot-checking with damp-rid is a viable long term solution given your evaporation rate. Your floor is already acting partially like the dehumidifier that's being discussed. That is, it's acting like the cool coils and resulting in some amount of condensation. Now, having been in your basement, it could be that there's actually just a little bit of moisture on the floor, but because of the nature of the tile (smooth and cool), it may feel much worse than it really is. The problem may be aggravated by an imbalance in your central air. From your description of the comparative coolness of the basement, you may be pumping more cool air into the basement than into the upper floors (where your thermostat is probably located). Rebalancing your airflow by cutting back on the air into the basement may help to warm the floor up just a bit - enough to keep the moisture in the air just a little bit longer. That's not the end of it, though. You still want to remove the water from the air. Your air conditioner should be able to remove the moisture that you're losing - I think it's about a 1 to 1-1/2 gallons a day, right? Note that you should have an air return in the basement for your central AC. In fact, you might even have one on every level of the TH. In my home and most homes I've been in, they're a somewhat large grate on a wall somewhere near the main air duct which is normally closely aligned (vertically) with the inside air handler. One thing you might try - and Mark can check me on this - is to rebalance the return so you're returning air preferentially from the basement (I've done this at times by partially blocking the returns on upper floors). This should get some of that damp, basement air over to the coils of your central AC where the water can be squeezed out.

OK, I'll bite. Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and pick up a length of their black vinyl tubing. (Boret, you said "silicone" but meant vinyl, didn't you? I don't recall there being silicone tubing in any form at either store.) I'll be installing the same tubing once I get my pump back from Marine Solutions. They think they'll have it out to me today....

I've had the same positive experience with them. They're only a day away by UPS and, when you send them something after calling them, they try their best to get it fixed and out the same day. They really understand your reliance on their product and bend over backwards to make sure you're happy. And this was with a used pump!

Enkamat PF4. You can often get it on Ebay reasonably cheaply in small portions suitable for mesh mods.

Great news, Boret. Keep us posted!

Normally, the shaft is packaged with the replacement impeller. However, you could try calling Danner and talking to see if they'll send you just the shaft: DANNER MANUFACTURING, INC. 160 Oval Drive Islandia, N.Y. 11749-1489 Phone: (631) 234-5261 Fax: (631) 234-4778

Mine normally runs 0 ppm. When it gets to 4 or 5 (if not before), I begin to think about changing things. I take two measurements: One of the RO water out of the membrane and one out of the DI stage (RO/DI water). When the RO/DI creeps up, it's time to change the DI resin. When the RO numbers creep up, it's time to change the membrane. If the membrane's not doing it's job, you'll find that your DI resin will be depleted faster.

I'm in Eastern Loudoun but we use Fairfax Water. Fairfax Water has two treatment plants: On e in Herndon and one in Occoquan. I'm served by water being processed in Herndon but don't know where your water comes from. I've not noticed a decrease in the performance of my AWI RO/DI system. I'd give them a call and ask their opinion on what's going on. It sounds to me like you may have a membrane failure or rupture.

No advice on the pump, Boret, but if you're so close to the circuit rating that 30-50 watts may put you over, I'd very much consider tapping off of or dropping another circuit in close to your set up.

I love it! This is pretty cool. Ahem. Back to work.

By the way, this isn't the 3-bulb Hamilton retrofit that deepblue was selling a while back, is it?

Ah, if you just want a functional fix, I'd drop the water level and replace it with a glass brace. That way you can keep using the 3-bulb setup without another meltdown.

Is the tank bowing? Is structural integrity in question? If so, you may want to clamp it to limit bowing. You might call an aquarium manufacturer, such as Glass Cages, to source a replacement frame. They sell them, but I only see frames up to 90 listed on their website. http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=43

What kind and what what sized tank? (Is this your 90/120?)

When starting up the unit, the lights blink in a manner to indicate the firmware version that is installed. If it's not current (check with their website), you may want to update it. I run mine in reef crest mode. The second is slaved synchronously rather than anti-sync. Getting things set up to run quietly sometimes requires a slight twisting motion of the dry side (which helps to align things) - a visual alignment of the dry side and the wet side is only a start and may result in noisy operation. Adjust it to make it as quiet as you can after which it may take a few hours for it to really quiet down. Make sure that you've got the cord for the dry side secured so that if the wet side separates, that the dry side doesn't fall to the floor. You can get these foam sleeves that go over sides of the wet frame. I don't bother with them. The dry side can get pretty warm to the touch. This is normal. The battery back up unit is a good investment. One back up unit can cover up to two MP40W's. If the unit is having trouble, it will blink out an error code. These are not documented in their user guide (as far as I can tell) but a quick call over to Ecotech Marine will get you the support you need. They'll support you even if you're not the original owner. Their support is excellent. You'll be hard pressed to find a more responsive shop. Be advised: They can move a good deal of water: If you turn them up high enough, they'll suck the substrate up from your aquarium floor (even more than a foot away) and blow it around your tank. If you're going to run in a random pattern mode (lagoon or reef crest), try adjusting for maximum permissible flow using one of the fixed modes first (to set the limit) before switching over to the random mode.

Boret, I just threw out a bunch of the stuff a couple of weeks ago but I could spare a softball sized wad (or a little larger) if you need some.

Congratulations! Glad to hear that mother and baby are doing well. How's DAD? :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

BRK has 200 gallon boxes on sale at the social tomorrow for $50.

Welcome back.

I would have done it last night but had a different plumbing project in the works on the system. It'll just take a moment to try it but it will most certainly offer a more rigid wall than the stock tubing. I don't expect any trouble at all from it.

Good stuff, Boret. Thanks. Coincidentally, I picked up some new black vinyl tubing at Lowe's a few days ago. The stock stuff was just too flexible and you had to take pains to keep it from kinking. I figured this would work better and, in black, would resist cyano and algae growth. The 2S cone can't run the pumps upside down, though. The pumps are set so low that the housing would be scraping whatever surface it was sitting on if it were oriented that way.