motti March 27, 2014 Share March 27, 2014 Haha right now I just climb over the tank to set things up :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 LOL !! I was going for this: cat·walk (kăt′wôk′) n.A narrow, often elevated walkway, as on the sides of a bridge or in the flies above a theater stage. You could of at least added and Angel (I mean Angelfish) to the catwalk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 Haha right now I just climb over the tank to set things up :-) Yes, and there are still people turning their lights on in the morning, and off in the evening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 ***Change in plans...I am selling my tank. Just kidding;) howaboutme (Jack) and I have been conspiring behind the scenes in private messages to modify this puppy into a work of art. So here it goes. We are posting a warning, so kids don't try this at home. A CANTILEVER IS NOT SOMETHING TO MESS WITH. IT COULD CAUSE LOSS OF LIFE AND PROPERTY ALONG WITH AN UPSET SPOUSE. WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MARITAL DISPUTES OR TERMINATIONS FOR EVEN MENTIONING THIS THREAD, OR THE CONCEPT OF IT. READ ON AT YOUR OWN RISK! WARNING: The following show features stunts performed either by professionals or under the supervision of professionals. Accordingly, MTV and the producers must insist that no one attempt to recreate or re-enact any stunt or activity performed on this show. ! -Jackass These drawings Are the property of howaboutme and are only authorized to be used by DuffyGeos as a concept for a build. The drawing may or may not be to scale, they are not certified architectural drawings and they are not certified by an engineer- no matter what it says in the thread. There are no construction details to show any connections or loads for engineering, or is there any truth to the ramblings on in this thread (while drinking at night) of how this is going to work. In other words: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 howaboutme Grandmaster Reefer WAMAS Member 1,379 posts Gender:Male Location:Centreville, VA Sent 25 March 2014 - 09:16 PM Had some time..so here are some images of what i was thinking.. I have not made provisions of your huge sump. I guess the stand would be oversized in the depth dept to accommodate the sump or (since you have plenty of room) put your sump off to the side of your tank like what I've seen in some other tank builds. The members I have put are probably way oversized. this is basically a concept to get your mind racing. its just 2 (i put 4 sistered just to site properly on a 4x4 post) beams with joists sitting on top. You can finish it anyway you want w/ hardwood, paint, stainless, resin board, etc.... show this to your engineer and see what he thinks. my guess is that the posts and beams/joists will have all have to be structurally anchored to resist the turning movement of a cantilever. It'll look good! Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 DuffyGeos Starfish WAMAS Member 194 posts Gender:Male Location:Oakton Interests:SCUBA diving, mountain biking, Landscape Architecture, my wife and boys. Sent 25 March 2014 - 10:03 PM Wow that looks great! thanks for your effort. So we would have the tank stick out 7"-8"+/-. I would then rip down the wall and install the beam in that wall so it eliminates the second posts outside the wall. Then extend the platform that the tank sits on 12" into the fish room. At the corners of the tank in the fish room there would be 2- 6" x 6" posts that would sit corner to corner with the tank (diagonally). These would be an 1" taller then the top of the tank so I can lower, fold down or put up an aluminum platform to lay over the top of the tank to service the front of the tank. This would give me enough space under the stand to put my sump without it sticking out. On your top picture- I want to put the beam on the fish room side up to the same level as the joists. Do you see with the beam and the joists stacked it cuts down on the height under the stand where I need to put a skimmer, sump, and pipe work. Also the reasoning behind the LVL's is to eliminate the center post so I could possibly have a sump on a platform that would roll out half way for service. I figure I would have rails with rollers that are always on the concrete in front of the stand. My piping would need to be flexible, but I thought it would be handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 howaboutme Grandmaster Reefer WAMAS Member 1,379 posts Gender:Male Location:Centreville, VA Sent Yesterday, 08:54 AM Your 2nd paragraph is sort of hard to imagine but I think I get what you're saying. As for the beam, yeah, I think it can go in-line w/ the others instead of sitting on it. It's a more traditional way of building stands but I didn't do it to begin w/ because of the cantilever. I'm worried about how you would cantilever it out w/o the cantilevered joists sitting on a perpendicular member. Maybe we can have the beam along the face of the wall but not the back one....Let me think about the framing of that a bit. Also..not sure why you need to tear the wall down anymore than cutting the opening.... I think if you can get rid of the center post, that would be ideal. Does your structural guy say it's okay w/ that span? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCReefer1964 March 27, 2014 Share March 27, 2014 K Love Angles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 howaboutme Grandmaster Reefer WAMAS Member 1,379 posts Gender:Male Location:Centreville, VA Sent Yesterday, 04:51 PM Just thinking through my head a bit......I don't think you can do a cantilever w/o the beams that sit under the joists that are the one's being cantilevered. You will need that perpendicular beam to be the last support before everything is cantilevered from it. Without that, the only one's that will be cantilevered are the one's directly attached to the posts. In other words, you will need a post for every member that's cantilevered, not ideal. I would see what your structural guy says about member sizes. If you build your stand high enough for good viewing, you may be able to have good enough access to your sump, etc..especially if you want it to just roll out. That idea actually helps the cantilever framing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 DuffyGeos Starfish WAMAS Member 194 posts Gender:Male Location:Oakton Interests:SCUBA diving, mountain biking, Landscape Architecture, my wife and boys. Sent Yesterday, 10:44 PM Ok, I think have my engineer's blessing. We are going to run everything at the same level and use Simpson hangers to hang the joists off the side of the beam. the Frame will be 2" x 8" P.T. Pine joists @12" O.C. It will be bolted into 6" x 6" at the corners and be cantilevered over the wall which will have 2 6" x 6" P.T. Pine posts (will add another 2 for what I want to do with my platform) with 16" O.C. wall studs and a double 2" x 6" top plate. We will cover the top with 3/4" plywood and a type of foam (not sure what type). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 howaboutme Grandmaster Reefer WAMAS Member 1,379 posts Gender:Male Location:Centreville, VA Sent Today, 08:40 AM Ok, I think I get it. The double 2x6 top plate at the wall will function as the last beam for the joists to cantilever over, right? So it's good to know that your engineers says the 2 back posts will be enough to resist the turning movement w/ a bolted connection. 6x6's are huge so I'm not surprised now. I'd love to see the detailing of it when it's done. It'll be very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 @ DCReefer1964- I all of the sudden like my build thread a whole lot more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCReefer1964 March 27, 2014 Share March 27, 2014 (edited) LOL a Reefer's dream . It may be hard to get them to eat. Edited March 27, 2014 by DCReefer1964 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 I am going to dangle some nori in front of them....hey, it is low fat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 27, 2014 Share March 27, 2014 Man, what just happened? Someone say my name? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 27, 2014 Share March 27, 2014 I really like the idea of the tank sticking out a bit like Jack designed for you, and my first question was "what are you going to do with the top? Covering it with anything other than glass might look funny, but I wonder how it would look if you left it open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 27, 2014 Author Share March 27, 2014 I really like the idea of the tank sticking out a bit like Jack designed for you, and my first question was "what are you going to do with the top? Covering it with anything other than glass might look funny, but I wonder how it would look if you left it open? We just decided on posting the pics today. The drawing is not accurate above the tank (we were just worried about below it) The wall will follow the top outline of the tank so that it does not effect any lighting. It will also give it a clean look. The drawing also shows beams running below the joists, which will change. They will all be at the same height using 8" LVL beams on hangers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy March 27, 2014 Share March 27, 2014 i don't know why more folks don't use LVLs on their medium to larger builds. i way overdid it sistering two LVLson the front of my stand so that, like you mentioned, i could have the entire space under the stand available to me without having to worry or maneuver around a center support. having a sliding out sump is just an extra perk and makes maintenance easier and you can clean back there easily if you have the space. quick disconnects off your manifolds and/or true union ball valves make things even more convenient. good work, sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 27, 2014 Share March 27, 2014 We just decided on posting the pics today. The drawing is not accurate above the tank (we were just worried about below it) The wall will follow the top outline of the tank so that it does not effect any lighting. It will also give it a clean look. The drawing also shows beams running below the joists, which will change. They will all be at the same height using 8" LVL beams on hangers. I actually think that if you can do the exact same thing at the bottom of your tank at the top, that would look better than having your entire wall bump out above your tank. It preserves the true cube within a wall look. You will loose a lot of your cantilever effect with your current plan. An assumption is your structural depth (8" plus finish, etc) at the bottom will be enough so that the same (or close to) dimension can be at the top for attaching your lights (assume LED for low profile) at a X height above your water line. If the dimension is too thin, fur it out so the top and bottom "lines" are equal or close to equal w/o being too fat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 28, 2014 Author Share March 28, 2014 i don't know why more folks don't use LVLs on their medium to larger builds. i way overdid it sistering two LVLson the front of my stand so that, like you mentioned, i could have the entire space under the stand available to me without having to worry or maneuver around a center support. having a sliding out sump is just an extra perk and makes maintenance easier and you can clean back there easily if you have the space. quick disconnects off your manifolds and/or true union ball valves make things even more convenient. good work, sir. Marco- Thanks! LVL's cost more, but the are structurally superior and don't warp. I would rather way over do it then under do it. The latter can cause a wet basement and a bunch of fish flapping around on the floor. I really don't want that center support, and if I can pull the sump out it will make my life easier, which in turn will mean I will have a cleaner system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 28, 2014 Author Share March 28, 2014 I actually think that if you can do the exact same thing at the bottom of your tank at the top, that would look better than having your entire wall bump out above your tank. It preserves the true cube within a wall look. You will loose a lot of your cantilever effect with your current plan. An assumption is your structural depth (8" plus finish, etc) at the bottom will be enough so that the same (or close to) dimension can be at the top for attaching your lights (assume LED for low profile) at a X height above your water line. If the dimension is too thin, fur it out so the top and bottom "lines" are equal or close to equal w/o being too fat. That is a good idea if we are tracking the same. So have a 8"+/- bump out section above the tank as opposed to the whole wall. I will have to look at it. In a reality where I have a large flat wall and no drops for an I-beam with duct work that would look great. Unfortunately the builder did not see my tank coming along. Well for that case neither did I when I built the gym. Take a look back at the pics from the start where the yellow Post-its are located in the gym and you can see the dropped ceiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 28, 2014 Author Share March 28, 2014 There is just something about Angel's with wings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 28, 2014 Share March 28, 2014 That is a good idea if we are tracking the same. So have a 8"+/- bump out section above the tank as opposed to the whole wall. I will have to look at it. In a reality where I have a large flat wall and no drops for an I-beam with duct work that would look great. Unfortunately the builder did not see my tank coming along. Well for that case neither did I when I built the gym. Take a look back at the pics from the start where the yellow Post-its are located in the gym and you can see the dropped ceiling. I saw that picture. It's the soffit at the post? So the i-beam is perpendicular to the wall? Yeah, I see how that could mess with the aesthetic. Will the left edge of your tank be clear of the soffit edge? If so, you might be able to make it work. Sent from my rooted Nook HD+ running CyanogenMod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 28, 2014 Author Share March 28, 2014 I saw that picture. It's the soffit at the post? So the i-beam is perpendicular to the wall? Yeah, I see how that could mess with the aesthetic. Will the left edge of your tank be clear of the soffit edge? If so, you might be able to make it work. Sent from my rooted Nook HD+ running CyanogenMod Yup... The left edge will be about a foot under the soffit, and no, there is no way I can move the tank to the right. I have played with it going back and forth about a foot. I still need the function on the inside to make the space work. That is why I think it will look cleaner with the wall just going straight up. I will also have a couple inches of Eurobrace to cover on the top of the tank, so it is not like it will be hanging over the open top of the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 28, 2014 Share March 28, 2014 So tell me how this happened? Your name on my screen after I clicked on the link from epleeds' thread....You really are EVERYWHERE!! haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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