DuffyGeos March 19, 2014 Author Share March 19, 2014 I stickied a post a while back but it was for an older version of the forum software. It still contains the basic information, though. Either set up a WAMAS a gallery or a Photobucket account and then link to the image using an a IMG tag. Sent from my LG G-Pad 8.3 Google Play Edition Thanks Tom! I will try again tonight. awesome start and i'm following along! Marco- It is an honor to have you following! Your build has been an inspiration. Thanks for the heaters yesterday. Following! This is gonna be a good one!! Thanks!, I hope so! If it is going sour please let me know where I made a wrong turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 19, 2014 Author Share March 19, 2014 Nice to see you finally get the build thread started Cuz. Give me a call when you get a chance and I'll walk you through getting pics posted on the forum. Yea, the camera finally showed up and I was able to get a ton of better pics so I feel like I can keep moving on. I will try and call you later. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 March 19, 2014 Share March 19, 2014 Pics! we want pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 19, 2014 Author Share March 19, 2014 (edited) Me too! I now have Steveoutlaw, Origami, & YHSublime giving me some guidance on how to get this done. So if I don't get too frustrated, and the IPA's don't take over from the IMG's we should be good to go sometime tonight. thanks Edited March 19, 2014 by DuffyGeos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 19, 2014 Share March 19, 2014 Looking forward to your build out. I have a D5200 too so if you have any questions, let me know. Though, I've only had it for about 4 or 5 months. Also, my profession is closely related to yours. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 19, 2014 Author Share March 19, 2014 Looking forward to your build out. I have a D5200 too so if you have any questions, let me know. Though, I've only had it for about 4 or 5 months. Also, my profession is closely related to yours. Good luck! Thanks, I may take you up on that. Still reading the directions. Right now I am "set it and forget it" mode. What do you do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 OK, here we go with the pics. I just want to get everyone oriented in the basement: Staircase obviously goes up to the first floor. The trick is that this is the only way in or out of the basement. It goes up to a landing which you can see. Turns right up to another landing. Then the kicker is there is a triangular landing with another two risers to the main floor. This little turn dictated the total size of the tank. The door single door will lead into the fish room which is now a storage room. There is another door out of the picture to the left of the staircase that also leads into the storage room around back of the staircase. The storage room will be divided into storage room and a fish room. The double door on the right lead into the gym where the tank DT will be built into the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 To the left out of the gym is the staircase upstairs and the door for the fish room. If you look on the left of the column you can barely see two little yellow post-its. This will be the left of the tank, and the right side of the tank will be in between the bike and the fan. I put them up to show my wife what size tank we would be putting down stairs. Her response was written with one word on each of the post-its starting in the upper left corner. "This" "is" "too" "big!".... But, I think she is getting used to the idea. I am actually looking at bringing the tank out of the wall 8"-11"+/-. One of my favorite views of a tank is down the length. So this way I can stand at either end and look through 8' of water! The wall will be bumped out into the gym below the tank as well as above it. I know I am going against everyone's advice from what I have read, but I do not want any access panels in the gym. I want it clean lined. So I have a solution....I think. I have never seen this done before, but I plan on having a platform fold down from the fish room side over the top of the aquarium. This will allow me to lay on the platform and clean the front glass, arrange rock or corals, and in general have access to all points of the tank since it is only 24" deep. Don't tell me you don't have a smile on your face right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 This is the view from the other corner of the gym. It shows the post-its a little better compared to the width of the wall. The air return (white grate) that is below the tank will have to be relocated. It is the large 8" pipe that is inside the storage room when we get to the interior pics. I am also relocating an air return that is just to the right of the staircase. Right now it runs under the stairs and makes that space unusable. It will get moved to the left of the staircase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 This view is in the storage room. I have entered the storage room door to the left of the staircase and turned right in the storage room. I am facing where the fish room will be built. The air return (white grate in the gym) is on the other side of that large pipe that starts near the ground, runs up the wall, and across the ceiling. It will be relocated and come out on the wall to the right if you are in the gym facing the DT. That long florescent light will be in the same place during construction until the drywall goes up for a reference point. The new wall will be 8' toward us from the wall with the light on it. It is about where that large duct on the left goes up to the first floor. One benefit of this project is that I have promised my wife that that entire storage area will be reorganized and we will be purging items that have accumulated over the years. So in reality this project helps the whole family! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 This picture is taken from the doorway of the fish room to the right of the stairs. The wooden 4" x 4" post on the right has to go! It is in my way! That is what engineers are for. The wall section on the far left is the right side of the closet that goes under the stairs. It is also the point where the left wall of the fish room will start. The red 4" metal post is in other pics and will not get moved. It supports an I-Beam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 This pic is taken in the back right corner of the fish room in relationship to the doorway to the fish room. Notice the light, red metal post, the doorway to fish room, and air return. The DT will be on the left wall. The utility sink, counter, refrigerator, shelves, and RO/DI unit will be on the facing wall with the shelves and doorway to the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 This pic is in the same location, I have just turned to the right. The new fish room wall will start to the left of the tank, run a couple feet, then turn to be parallel to the wall where the display tank will be installed. It runs right along where the large air duct ends and turns up to the first floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 This pic is taken just outside the fish room and highlights one of the problem areas I needed to solve. There is no floor drain on this side of the storage area. I decided that if I am going to do this I wanted to make sure that I did not get reassigned to the couch for sleeping arrangements by flooding the basement. So I needed to replace any drywall that is not greenboard ( it can get somewhat wet, and does not get moldy for the most part) that would be inside the fish room. After installing the new walls, with a P.T. Pine bottom plate, I would need to seal below the wood. We started with an adhesive under the bottom plate. Then we are going to caulk the joint between the bottom plate and the concrete floor with a silicone caulk. This will be the first line of defense to stop the water from getting under the walls of the fish room. Here is where the new floor drain comes in. I am going to cut a 4' long x 3" wide channel drain in the concrete floor. Break up the concrete around one of the drain lines to the right of the door, and tie it in to the sewer system. That channel drain is going just to the left of the bucket of Instant Ocean, which will soon be a framed "hall area" to minimize the escape route of any stray water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveS March 20, 2014 Share March 20, 2014 Should be a fun project! You are just down the street from me so lmk if you need any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 Should be a fun project! You are just down the street from me so lmk if you need any help. DaveS Thanks! I am sorry, I should have credited your build as one I also went through. I liked all the construction pics and all the details. I am sorry to hear about your crash, but by posting it and what went wrong you can help cure the problem and help others. I have a whole section of emails that I have copied from build threads about what people did right, and what went wrong. My "lessons learned" section helps give me guidance so I hopefully don't need to reinvent the wheel. I would love to come by and check out your system some day if you have a moment. Thanks for the offer on help, I will definitely take you up on it when I need a hand! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 20, 2014 Share March 20, 2014 (edited) RE: your bump out....what about just bumping out your tank? It'll look like a cube stocking out and slightly floating into the space. Here is one (every extreme) example but I want to say I have seen others. http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/the-build-40-breeder-sps-floating-tank-201479.html If you're doing 8-11", I don't see it as a huge problem, especially if you take L/4 as the worse case for a uniform load. You can talk to your structural to get real numbers and member sizes but you can probably just structurally anchor your posts to the concrete slab and maybe (to be on the safest side) build a frame from your stand to the underside of your floor joists to further resist the turning. But I doubt that is really needed. Just a thought. Edit...You will have to bring your beams out of the wall too...Didn't want to mislead anyone by saying just bump the tank out. Edited March 20, 2014 by howaboutme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 20, 2014 Author Share March 20, 2014 RE: your bump out....what about just bumping out your tank? It'll look like a cube stocking out and slightly floating into the space. Here is one (every extreme) example but I want to say I have seen others. http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/the-build-40-breeder-sps-floating-tank-201479.html If you're doing 8-11", I don't see it as a huge problem, especially if you take L/4 as the worse case for a uniform load. You can talk to your structural to get real numbers and member sizes but you can probably just structurally anchor your posts to the concrete slab and maybe (to be on the safest side) build a frame from your stand to the underside of your floor joists to further resist the turning. But I doubt that is really needed. Just a thought. Edit...You will have to bring your beams out of the wall too...Didn't want to mislead anyone by saying just bump the tank out. Jack- thanks! This is the kind of input I am looking for! I thought about that and I think it looks really cool. Part of my problem is the tank is 30" wide and my sump is 29" wide. So if I did that my sump would stick out into the fish room the same distance (-1") as the tank cantilevered into the gym. One option would be to make a shelf in front of the tank which would offset cantilever. It really would just be an extension of the stand in the fish room. I have one tank with about 6" in front of it, and I use that space all the time. I might need some anchored uprights anyway if I want to create a removable, hinged, or retractable platform that I can lay on to work on the tank. This then gets into my next concept which is to have a catwalk that runs the length of the tank (8') which can be raised or lowered so I can get better access to the tank. I was thinking of some sort of lever system, or a pump-jack like they use when siding a house. It could go down to the floor where I could just walk over it, or I could raise it up 3'+/- to work on things. Then the next item.....I am thinking about creating a roll out shelf for the sump for easy service......So I got that goin' for me, which is nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 20, 2014 Share March 20, 2014 Sorry, I just realized your tank is 30" deep...thought it was more. (I know I said I was going to read all of your thread but I lied..haha)..You shouldn't go more than 7 or 7.5" cantilever...you can probably do more if you decide to brace the backside of the stand to the floor structure above. Let me do more reading on your thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 21, 2014 Author Share March 21, 2014 So everything gets moved into the rec room, and it is time to do a little framing. One goal is to have a a totally finished room. I also don't want 4 different ceiling levels, so I packed out the ceiling to build around some AC lines and did the same for some of the duct work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 21, 2014 Author Share March 21, 2014 Here is the far end of the fish room. The air return on the right is coming out and being relocated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 21, 2014 Author Share March 21, 2014 This is the view from the remaining storage room through the new wall to the fish room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 21, 2014 Author Share March 21, 2014 This is the view from the far side of the fish room where the DT will be on the left, and the door to the fish room is on the right. Straight ahead is the wall where the sink, and counter will be located. The floor channel drain and the sink will be tied into the white drain line on the right near the red post. We will have to do something with all of that concrete around it......time for some toys, I mean tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 21, 2014 Author Share March 21, 2014 So here is my quandary... How to use a 4' channel drain in an existing concrete floor that has no enclosed area that is only 4' wide. Then I also had to factor in the 2' wide footer (I assume) that is around the red lally column, and the realization that I am not sure which direction the sewer line runs under ground. I can figure it goes in a certain 90 degree arc, but... I removed the 4" x 4" (not recommended in general), because to tell you the truth, I did not see it actually structurally supporting anything. I think it was temporary while they installed the staircase when the house was being built. I also had planned the new wall to support the same floor joint, so I was not too worried. So I decided to add a stone threshold at the fish room door, install a threshold and frame a door for the space to the right under the stairs for a closet. Change the location of the air return (which is the silver pipe) to the other side of the staircase so that space under the stairs can now be used. Then frame in a wall on the left of the fish room door that runs around the lally column and the sewer line and enclose them in a wall (with a removable panel for the sewer cleanout). The left side of the wall will also be the end of the counter. This now will set it up for a 3'-4'+/- hallway where the channel drain can run wall to wall and catch any water that would want to get out of the room...Bingo! That solves one of my design problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme March 21, 2014 Share March 21, 2014 Why don't you just slope to drain .25" per foot to a floor drain instead of the channel? Just build the stand to compensate for the very minor slope if needed at all? Add liner, etc. I seem to recall Jenn, sachaballireef, doing something similar.....?? Not sure though. Sent from my rooted Nook HD+ running CyanogenMod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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