PK3 April 11, 2013 Share April 11, 2013 This build looks amazing so far. Tagging along for the ride and to learn something new along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy April 11, 2013 Author Share April 11, 2013 This build looks amazing so far. Tagging along for the ride and to learn something new along the way. you and me both, haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Puckstable April 11, 2013 Share April 11, 2013 Awesome clowns! Where'd you get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy April 11, 2013 Author Share April 11, 2013 Awesome clowns! Where'd you get them? thanks - WWC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy April 12, 2013 Author Share April 12, 2013 all this work for a temporary set up with the fuge. got the new broodstock tank going and decided to remove the sump it had and instead tied it in line with the 46 upstairs and swapped to a panworld 250PS pump which holy cow moves water. too much for the skimmer to work efficiently. can't wait to get my real sump from adam. officially need sleep. ok here are some photos. nighty night. oh and someone buy my extra real-deal wyoming white from SA - the guy is gorgeous! http://wamas.org/forums/topic/56897-fs-sa-wyoming-white-clownfish-2/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime April 20, 2013 Share April 20, 2013 Whats good? So much so fast, then you just cut us off?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy April 20, 2013 Author Share April 20, 2013 (edited) Whats good? So much so fast, then you just cut us off?! there's nothing else i can do until i get my overflow and sump from adam/artfully acrylic. i know he's been slammed and working hard on a lot of projects but hopefully within a couple weeks here i'll have my stuff so i can keep things moving at the pace i enjoy whenever i get it, i know it's going to be awesome and i think with the 4' thin inbox style overflow with external box, will really clean the style up a bit. Edited April 20, 2013 by monkiboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 8, 2013 Author Share May 8, 2013 so got my overflow from adam recently so i can continue to do some work on the build again. picked that up and some dow 795 for the internal and external overflow boxes. the dow black silicone is going to be a new product i use but have heard excellent reviews on it. i feel a lot more confident using a building sealant for the external overflow and the black will blend nicely i think over the typical clear solutions out there. waiting on estimates from some local glass shops to pick up the pieces for the external box. was going to go acrylic but after consulting with adam and a few others we all agreed it's best in glass. will have to take a look at evan's build thread again for some ideas on thicknesses. and size. any one have input on size of the external overflow box? the internal is 48" long. i was thinking of a 24 or 36" length external with 4-5 1" bulkhead size openings for flow through and make it big enough for the herbie overflow obviously but perhaps a bit larger as to have an acclimation "mini tank" for new arrivals to the DT after QT. maybe grow some mangroves in there or something unique. was thinking of a 36x6x12"...input, ideas? i plan to support it just as a precaution with a small stand that will come off the DT stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT May 8, 2013 Share May 8, 2013 try siliconing a few pieces of glass together and then try to take them apart.....i was very skeptical at first but HOLY COW......its AMAZING how strong the bond to glass is, my first attempt was too shallow so i went to reuse pieces of glass....took alot more effort than i planned to get them separated...even broke one piece. as for width of the internal...my only suggestion that ive noticed now is being able to clean it and or stick you hand in to get something that has fallen in...use some cardboard to play around with widths etc but you just want to be sure you can reach in there if you want or clean it with a brush...depending on your center bracing etc... I used 3/8ths for my bottom glass as the bulkheads would be attached to these so i wanted it to be the strongest, then i used 1/4 for the sides (im pretty sure that is ill have to double check that) if your going all black and everything look into Tinted glass for the overflows, or just put some tint on yourself. i used 3 1 inch holes i drilled in the back of the tank with no bulkheads are barely half way filled with water when the overflow is working...obviously they bulkheads take up alot of the space when they are used so its easy to see why they are only half way covered. as for the depth, that is the improtant part not the length....you internal you want the length and dont need the depth......hope this makes sense...you external overflow could be 18 inches long with 3 holes or 40 inches long with 3 holes...still will flow 3 holes.......but you do need enough depth/height to run a full syphon and get the emergency to go full syphon. i believe mine is 6 in deep, 6.5 would give you a little more room to play with but??....good thing about this is you can limit the size of the external overflow obstructing your fishroom...i dont think i would go any less width than 18 with 1 in tubing though....overflows would get really close to one another.. your internal ...the longer it is the more "surface skimming" it will do....but you dont need it to be deep, just enough to cover the holes you drill. just make sure you gaurd the plumbing from being bumped....i dont think you need to do a stand for the overflow, i thought about this cause i didnt trust the silicon...until i made it and tried to push down on it....again its rediculous how well the bond is. other thing is the holes that feed the external overflow.....if you have bubbles coming from you internal overflow they can interrupt the syphon... sorry to write a book but hope this helps, if you ever want to come check my set up out or want pics/vid whatever dont hesitate to ask. only other thing i did with my glass thats noteworthy is sanded it (took the diamond wheel dremel)...the glass cutter will usually sand the edges of the glass for you but lets just say none of the pieces of glass where perfectly flat...there were some high and low spots i smoothed out to make the edge site flush on the glass/make the best seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM May 8, 2013 Share May 8, 2013 Marco, let us know how the 795 works for the internal acrylic one. I am going to try rtv-103 for mine, but considered the 795 stuff. Just already have the 103 stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCReefer1964 May 9, 2013 Share May 9, 2013 I would have the glass shop cut the pieces of glass for me and finish off the edges for me. I know how perfect you like things to be Marcos, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 10, 2013 Author Share May 10, 2013 try siliconing a few pieces of glass together and then try to take them apart.....i was very skeptical at first but HOLY COW......its AMAZING how strong the bond to glass is, my first attempt was too shallow so i went to reuse pieces of glass....took alot more effort than i planned to get them separated...even broke one piece. as for width of the internal...my only suggestion that ive noticed now is being able to clean it and or stick you hand in to get something that has fallen in...use some cardboard to play around with widths etc but you just want to be sure you can reach in there if you want or clean it with a brush...depending on your center bracing etc... I used 3/8ths for my bottom glass as the bulkheads would be attached to these so i wanted it to be the strongest, then i used 1/4 for the sides (im pretty sure that is ill have to double check that) if your going all black and everything look into Tinted glass for the overflows, or just put some tint on yourself. i used 3 1 inch holes i drilled in the back of the tank with no bulkheads are barely half way filled with water when the overflow is working...obviously they bulkheads take up alot of the space when they are used so its easy to see why they are only half way covered. as for the depth, that is the improtant part not the length....you internal you want the length and dont need the depth......hope this makes sense...you external overflow could be 18 inches long with 3 holes or 40 inches long with 3 holes...still will flow 3 holes.......but you do need enough depth/height to run a full syphon and get the emergency to go full syphon. i believe mine is 6 in deep, 6.5 would give you a little more room to play with but??....good thing about this is you can limit the size of the external overflow obstructing your fishroom...i dont think i would go any less width than 18 with 1 in tubing though....overflows would get really close to one another.. your internal ...the longer it is the more "surface skimming" it will do....but you dont need it to be deep, just enough to cover the holes you drill. just make sure you gaurd the plumbing from being bumped....i dont think you need to do a stand for the overflow, i thought about this cause i didnt trust the silicon...until i made it and tried to push down on it....again its rediculous how well the bond is. other thing is the holes that feed the external overflow.....if you have bubbles coming from you internal overflow they can interrupt the syphon... sorry to write a book but hope this helps, if you ever want to come check my set up out or want pics/vid whatever dont hesitate to ask. only other thing i did with my glass thats noteworthy is sanded it (took the diamond wheel dremel)...the glass cutter will usually sand the edges of the glass for you but lets just say none of the pieces of glass where perfectly flat...there were some high and low spots i smoothed out to make the edge site flush on the glass/make the best seal. that's awesome to hear how strong the bond was with your project. what product did you use? i dont know if i made it clear but the internal overflow is already made. pictures to follow. it is shaped with enough room to clean. we ended up with just about a 30° angle on the inbox. gotta to be svelte and allow for a less obtrusive design. looking forward to it. tinted glass is a good idea and for your thickness of glass. i was thinking about the same if not just a tad thicker if i go for a large external overflow. for some reason the idea intrigues me and i feel i could make good use of the space. either with mangroves, fish isolation/acclimation, or something unique. i was planning on drilling the holes on the back pane of the DT for waterflow from internal to external overflow for bulkheads but not actually using bulkheads so that in this way if i ever need to use bulkheads, my overflow plans change, etc at least i have the right size holes and don't need to mess with trying to enlarge them. so the internal overflow i went with a 48" long and it's about four inches wide and 5" tall. the external is what i am still deciding on but i want to buy glass tomorrow so what do you all think of 36x7x12" as size? i plan to have a bean animal style and will have 1.5" drains. want to have plenty of room for plumbing which 36" will obviously allow but also have plenty of room for whatever i decide i want to do back in the external overflow. in regards to the bubbles interrupting the siphon... i don't imagine this being a problem as the water should be a very thin sheet and cleanly roll right in but hitting the back glass and then over a circular opening might create turbulence. how do you mitigate the problem? i definitely want to come check your system out. can you PM me your information and schedule over the next couple weeks so we can set something up at your convenience please? Marco, let us know how the 795 works for the internal acrylic one. I am going to try rtv-103 for mine, but considered the 795 stuff. Just already have the 103 stuff. that's the only other thing i would have picked up. will definitely let you know. i'll know soon enough! I would have the glass shop cut the pieces of glass for me and finish off the edges for me. I know how perfect you like things to be Marcos, you know me well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 10, 2013 Author Share May 10, 2013 (edited) i felt horrible about it but my dad is almost a foot shorter than i and it was considerably easier for him to fit in there to help me get the work done than it would be me attempting to do the same... Edited May 10, 2013 by monkiboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 10, 2013 Author Share May 10, 2013 in thinking about it, you think 1.5" drain is over doing it? maybe better off with 1"? if i'm maximizing efficiency of contact time for my skimmer for sump flow i'd be around 1300gph. i guess i do need the 1.5" since i dont have gravity on my side for a fall and there might be some restriction. ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM May 10, 2013 Share May 10, 2013 Merdad. I am glas you posted how you held that box in place without tipping the aquarium on its back. I would drill 4-5 holes sized for 1.5 inch bulkheads to connect the internal to external overflow. Get lots of good flow without restriction through the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 10, 2013 Author Share May 10, 2013 yeah initially the idea was to remove the tank from the stand to do the work but my dad offered to try from within the tank while it remained on the stand and after proving to be quite acrobatic, it seemingly was the better/less exhausting alternative. you think i need to go that large with the holes for flow from internal to external and that many? i was set on 4-5 as well but 1.5 bulkhead holes are 65mm/2.5"...that's some big holes but i guess if really doing that large in case i go with a different design, i wouldn't really use 1" bulkheads on a tank this size so i do need 1.5" bulkheads. the overflow is only 6" tall so i guess the best place to put them on the back pane of the glass is on the lowest section of the overflow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM May 10, 2013 Share May 10, 2013 You don't need bulkheads between the internal and external box. Just holes. Those 65mm holes are nice and big, and you'd definitely want bigger openings than you'll have heading down from the external box, which if you're doing a Herbie will have 2 large holes, so I just said 4-5 which should allow the water level in the inside and outside boxes to be the same so there aren't two different levels and two potentially splashy overflows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 10, 2013 Author Share May 10, 2013 correct, no bulkheads needed but the reason i was making the holes so large initially was in case of design change or when i'm selling the tank, the holes will be the right size (2.5" for a 1.5" bulkhead) so that someone could use whatever overflow they want and design and have a hole for a bulkhead there if they wanted for their overflow design or mine in the future or for a CL. yes, so i guess we're in agreement that 1.5" drains is the way to go. sorry if i said herbie. i'll be doing a bean animal overflow. so three 1.5" drains from external to sump. then 4-5 to flow the approximate 1300gph from internal to external overflow. what about placement on the 4-5 holes within the space of the internal overflow along the back pane of glass? lower, medium, higher? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCReefer1964 May 21, 2013 Share May 21, 2013 Update please !!!!!! From Norfolk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 22, 2013 Author Share May 22, 2013 Update please !!!!!! From Norfolk still waiting on the sump from adam/artfully acrylic for any real work to begin, getting the tank wet, etc. word is to have it by this weekend. i'm really looking forward to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef May 22, 2013 Share May 22, 2013 That must be the reason he's building tanks full time lol... Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 29, 2013 Author Share May 29, 2013 was able to pick up the sump on sunday! i was really hoping to have the tank wet and cycling/running by now so that my focus could then successfully shift over to other priorities. i enjoy working on, showing, and racing my subaru and the weather has finally gotten consistently warm enough to be able to get a climbing schedule together. so unfortunately, the tank will be put on the back burner until i get these other two passions of mine on a routine and settled. i'll be sure to post up as things happen but the break-neck pace window has passed and now i got other things that require my attention first. thanks for all the queries via PM and all the folks that have stopped by to check it out and offer their advice - it's much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlin May 29, 2013 Share May 29, 2013 all this work for a temporary set up with the fuge. got the new broodstock tank going and decided to remove the sump it had and instead tied it in line with the 46 upstairs and swapped to a panworld 250PS pump which holy cow moves water. too much for the skimmer to work efficiently. can't wait to get my real sump from adam. officially need sleep. ok here are some photos.oh and someone buy my extra real-deal wyoming white from where did you purchase this valve thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy May 29, 2013 Author Share May 29, 2013 where did you purchase this valve thing? it's a manifold with your standard cepex ball valves... it's intended for irrigation systems. i got it from sprinklerwarehouse.com. they sell in various sizes and outlets with myriad of fittings including barb which is handy. nice clean way to do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlin May 29, 2013 Share May 29, 2013 it's a manifold with your standard cepex ball valves... it's intended for irrigation systems. i got it from sprinklerwarehouse.com. they sell in various sizes and outlets with myriad of fittings including barb which is handy. nice clean way to do it sweet. that would really save me from running multiple pumps. now i have to figure out the hose sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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