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RO/DI


YHSublime

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So until 3 months ago, I had never heard of an RO/DI. I certainly had no knowledge of how to set one up. I have the Typhoon III from Air, Water, & Ice. and although they are known for plug and play, I'm having some difficulty wrapping my head around it.

 

I know that I'm interested in producing about 30 gallons of RO/DI water a week. Presumably the water comes from my tap (my water pressure and temperature will be important in deciding how quickly I produce.

 

I want to have everything installed correctly, but I'm worried about the fact that I'm renting in an apartment. I also don't want to have to pull my unit out and set it up in the kitchen every time I want to make RO/DI water.

 

I don't even know if I can get this thing hooked up to my kitchen tap. If I can, there is a coat closet behind the wall right by the sink, in which I was planning on keeping my bucket, and the unit itself mounted in.

 

Help?

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you can get something like this: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/catalog/product/view/id/106/

 

you hook it up to your kitchen or bathroom sink and put the tubing that feeds the water to the ro/di unit to the adapter. The nice thing about this is that the lever will allow you to adjust to switch the water direction so that it either goes to your ro/di unit or comes out of the sink adapter. this way, you won't have to hook or unhook the ro/di unit after each use.

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you can get something like this: http://www.bulkreefs...ct/view/id/106/

 

you hook it up to your kitchen or bathroom sink and put the tubing that feeds the water to the ro/di unit to the adapter. The nice thing about this is that the lever will allow you to adjust to switch the water direction so that it either goes to your ro/di unit or comes out of the sink adapter. this way, you won't have to hook or unhook the ro/di unit after each use.

 

My typhoon came with that piece. I just left a small piece of tube coming out and connect whenever I want to use it. Its annoying that its not just plumbed in, but it still makes it much easier. Just dont forget to switch the valve back. I forgot and the GF turned the water on and it shot across the bathroom all over the place, she didnt find it nearly as funny as I did.

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I built a little tee adapter to take water off of the undersink valve from parts found at HD or Lowe's and used this in my last home to feed water to my RO/DI unit. For the drain, I used a saddle on the sink drain. When I left the home, I replaced the p-trap on the drain, but could have just as easily used a strip of rubber and a clamp to seal the hole. This approach resulted in a hardwired unit with little tubing visibility.

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Put something like this in line with your sink's cold water feed, just after the vavle that sticks out of the wall/ Then a valve off of the 1/4" side. You'll be able to remove everything when you're ready to leave and it'll be like it was never there.

 

http://www.lowes.com...ing|1=

 

 

Edit: Yeah, what Tom said. :laugh:

Edited by CaptainRon
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My typhoon came with that piece. I just left a small piece of tube coming out and connect whenever I want to use it. Its annoying that its not just plumbed in, but it still makes it much easier. Just dont forget to switch the valve back. I forgot and the GF turned the water on and it shot across the bathroom all over the place, she didnt find it nearly as funny as I did.

 

I have the same thing and leave mine connected all the time.. I have an extra bathroom and have it attached to the extra sink and runs to the RODI that is sitting on the side of the tub, with the waste water going into a tub in the bathtub and the good water going into a 5g bucket set in the bathtub also...

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+1. if you dont have a float valve on your container, i suggest putting the bucket in a larger container when you are making water. also a good idea to set up a timer to remind yourself that the water is running. i had my share of floods due to me forgetting about the water and not put the bucket in the sink whenever i make water.

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Thanks for the advice everyone. I think an under the sink T will be most useful. I'm debating several ways of running the tubes along my cabinets and then either down into either into the cabinet below next to my sink, or the coat closet. The cords are pretty thin, keeping the look suttle, which I like. I don't have an extra bathroom to use, so unfortunately it really limits my water source to only being the kitchen sink. I will post some pictures tonight of what my plans are, and see if anybody has any ideas from there. I do have a float valve, I think I'll be using on a 30-40 gallon or so trash can. Anybody know how long I'll have to run the water in order to get around 30 gallons?

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With a 75 GPD membrane, it will take 7.5 to 12 hours most likely to produce 30 gallons. If the setup is new and unused, lose the first 3 to 5 gallons to let things flush out.

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With a 75 GPD membrane, it will take 7.5 to 12 hours most likely to produce 30 gallons. If the setup is new and unused, lose the first 3 to 5 gallons to let things flush out.

 

Oh wow. That's way longer than I expected. So I will have to run my tap for give or take 9 hours a week straight?

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Yeah but your not going to have 6 buckets full of water setting in that closet are you?

I make 5 gallons at a time...and keep 5g of fresh rodi onhand just in case...once you set up the new tank you wont need to make nearly as much unless there is an emergency...it takes me about 2 hours to make 5 gallons so 30 gallons would be a bit longer for me...but mywater is wayyyyy colder :(

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Oh wow. That's way longer than I expected. So I will have to run my tap for give or take 9 hours a week straight?

If you're tapped off the supply under the sink, you won't be "running the tap." But, yes, the RO/DI will be producing that long and will probably generate between 60 and 150 gallons of waste water in the process.

 

If you use the faucet adapter with the bypass switch, you'll tie up the faucet for that long (though you can just change the position of the valve for a moment if you want to get a glass of water or something). It's just one reason to tap off of the supply line.

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Yeah but your not going to have 6 buckets full of water setting in that closet are you?

I make 5 gallons at a time...and keep 5g of fresh rodi onhand just in case...once you set up the new tank you wont need to make nearly as much unless there is an emergency...it takes me about 2 hours to make 5 gallons so 30 gallons would be a bit longer for me...but mywater is wayyyyy colder :(

Not 6 buckets, but I'll have a 30 gallon trash can in there. It's a walk in/coat closet, so there's room. I'd rather make up 30 over a Friday to Saturday night and repeat every six weeks than add 2 hours routine to a week. It makes sense to me right now, but maybe I'll change my mind once I can see it all set up.

 

If you're tapped off the supply under the sink, you won't be "running the tap." But, yes, the RO/DI will be producing that long and will probably generate between 60 and 150 gallons of waste water in the process.

 

If you use the faucet adapter with the bypass switch, you'll tie up the faucet for that long (though you can just change the position of the valve for a moment if you want to get a glass of water or something). It's just one reason to tap off of the supply line.

 

Glad I'm asking about this before I dove in, tap off the supply line sounds like it's the way to go. I'm getting ready to go home and inspect the plumbing under the sink. I'd like to set everything up this weekend.

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have you seen the BRS videos on RO/DI units, install, etc? i had my sister who i'm helping start a new reef build go through all of them to better understand our new endeavor.

 

specifically for RO/DI install check out:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTONjczeGGY

 

it might give you some more ideas or at the very least provide an image to what everyone is talking to you about.

 

i would second the idea of using a tap to the supply line with a float valve that will "turn off" the RO/DI unit from producing any water via the auto-shut off valve which i think is standard with all RO/DI units nowadays. if you don't have one, you can pick one up from BRS: http://www.bulkreefs...ct/view/id/105/

 

and if the RO/DI unit you have doesn't have two membranes, i highly suggest upgarding your unit by purchasing a second one like the BRS 150gpd upgrade kit.

 

you'll double the RO/DI water you create in the same time and cut waste-water to at least half. i dont know if you pay your own utilities so the latter might not be of interest to you but being able to produce 150gpd vs 75 is a huge plus at a really affordable PnP option. the link for that is http://www.bulkreefs...ct/view/id/328/

Edited by monkiboy
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I did just what they say in this video. Float valve for shutoff in trash can wall works great and then you don't have to remember to shut it off to avoid a flood.

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That was a great visual, thanks man! It definitly helps being able to SEE!

 

have you seen the BRS videos on RO/DI units, install, etc? i had my sister who i'm helping start a new reef build go through all of them to better understand our new endeavor.

 

specifically for RO/DI install check out:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTONjczeGGY

 

it might give you some more ideas or at the very least provide an image to what everyone is talking to you about.

 

i would second the idea of using a tap to the supply line with a float valve that will "turn off" the RO/DI unit from producing any water via the auto-shut off valve which i think is standard with all RO/DI units nowadays. if you don't have one, you can pick one up from BRS: http://www.bulkreefs...ct/view/id/105/

 

and if the RO/DI unit you have doesn't have two membranes, i highly suggest upgarding your unit by purchasing a second one like the BRS 150gpd upgrade kit.

 

you'll double the RO/DI water you create in the same time and cut waste-water to at least half. i dont know if you pay your own utilities so the latter might not be of interest to you but being able to produce 150gpd vs 75 is a huge plus at a really affordable PnP option. the link for that is http://www.bulkreefs...ct/view/id/328/

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glad it helped guys! check out their other videos, they have well produced (albeit sometimes slow-paced) reefing videos covering hundreds of topics and series that cover setting up tanks, maintenance, fragging, etc. it's great too because most of the stuff they suggest or use in the videos they obviously sell and BRS usually has the best prices around and even better if you can jump on a BRS groupbuy that are always popping up on various forums.

 

g'luck!

Edited by monkiboy
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I wanted to add the BRS 150gpd upgrade to my system when I saw it on MrSaltwatertank at Christmastime, but when you read the information on it it requires 65psi water pressure to work. I only have 50psi in my house. This time of year you will not produce near 75gpd of water with the cold water temperature and I don't like to run my RO/DI at night because the water is colder coming in and with being on that long will start condensating and dripping from the pipes being so cold and hitting the warm house air.

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I wanted to add the BRS 150gpd upgrade to my system when I saw it on MrSaltwatertank at Christmastime, but when you read the information on it it requires 65psi water pressure to work. I only have 50psi in my house. This time of year you will not produce near 75gpd of water with the cold water temperature and I don't like to run my RO/DI at night because the water is colder coming in and with being on that long will start condensating and dripping from the pipes being so cold and hitting the warm house air.

that's unfortunate, it's an awesome upgrade and i've been able to tally up the savings month to month on my bill. but you're not it's not for everyone. thankfully my sister and i who live five block from each other and have the BRS 150GPD upgrade both have 90+ psi coming in from the supply line of our water heaters where i've setup the "fish rooms".

 

you could always install a cheap booster pump as it will pay for itself very quickly.

 

just a valuable option for some of us, i suppose.

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that's unfortunate, it's an awesome upgrade and i've been able to tally up the savings month to month on my bill. but you're not it's not for everyone. thankfully my sister and i who live five block from each other and have the BRS 150GPD upgrade both have 90+ psi coming in from the supply line of our water heaters where i've setup the "fish rooms".

 

you could always install a cheap booster pump as it will pay for itself very quickly.

 

just a valuable option for some of us, i suppose.

 

I'd like to install a booster pump with the auto shutoff, I keep thinking about it but hard to justify $140 for that. Maybe BRS or AWI will have a good sale on them sometime.

Edited by Big Country
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yeah, they do sales all the time. the best is to hop on a BRS GB. there seems to always be one on one of the forums going on and then you know you're getting the best price and shipping to your door.

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yeah, they do sales all the time. the best is to hop on a BRS GB. there seems to always be one on one of the forums going on and then you know you're getting the best price and shipping to your door.

 

I'm on the preferred reefer list at BRS from a prior group buy so I already get the better pricing, it's $7 cheaper. Need to lay off any orders for awhile to make the wife happy...lol

Edited by Big Country
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I'm on the preferred reefer list at BRS from a prior group buy so I already get the better pricing, it's $7 cheaper. Need to lay off any orders for awhile to make the wife happy...lol

haha, yeah so preferred reefer status is in between retail and group buy pricing. during a group buy, you have group buy rates which are even cheaper than your everyday preferred reefer rates so its usually worth it to try to jump on a group buy for the extra savings, especially on the BRS components or named products.
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