Big Country February 14, 2013 Share February 14, 2013 I thought once you were getting the preferred price it was the same as the group buy price, guess I need to get in on the next group buy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy February 15, 2013 Share February 15, 2013 negative. preferred reefer and groupbuy pricing are different pricing. the latter being better pricing and only achievable through a groupbuy and during the groupbuy purchase period, typically one week. preferred reefer status is nice on most items but groupbuy is just a bit better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 15, 2013 Author Share February 15, 2013 I'm on the preferred reefer list at BRS from a prior group buy so I already get the better pricing, it's $7 cheaper. Need to lay off any orders for awhile to make the wife happy...lol Happy wife=happy life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef February 15, 2013 Share February 15, 2013 Happy wife=happy life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 16, 2013 Author Share February 16, 2013 Looks like I'll be installing in the bathroom. The cold water line on my kitchen sink is braided... the hot water line is not. The saddle can't be used on a braided line. I guess maybe my complex recently replaced, or that the hot water line is also hooked up to the dishwasher. Bathroom is a little smaller space, without the possibility to hide it, but at least it'll be easy to use. Misses is out at the moment, so maybe I should use this time to surprise her with my new found hardware skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachabballi reef February 16, 2013 Share February 16, 2013 see post #28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 16, 2013 Author Share February 16, 2013 see post #28 I know I know. I'll never get it done if I don't do it soon! Contrary to my build thread, I actually have 3 tanks 1 room... trying to move one out. I just want to start making water and putting it in my tank! Plus I will be happy once I no longer have to run out to Pristine Aquariums to buy 15 gallons a trip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM February 16, 2013 Share February 16, 2013 Saddle tap is not reversible. Why not something like this https://espressocare.com/Qstore/Qstore.cgi?CMD=011&PROD=1220548098&PNAME=John+Guest+In+Line+Valve Or google "John guest under sink tee" for more options, or the add-a-tee would work from Lowes. You'd run the supply line in with the compression fitting included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM February 16, 2013 Share February 16, 2013 Here it is from BRS http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/catalog/product/view/id/2024/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami February 16, 2013 Share February 16, 2013 Here it is from BRS http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/catalog/product/view/id/2024/ Agreed. Don't use a saddle on the source water. Use this adapter or construct something similar from parts from the hardware store. Hard to beat the price on this item if shipping is not too high. I did use a saddle on the drain in my old installation. It had a quick connect fitting and installed easily. (Sent from my phone) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 16, 2013 Author Share February 16, 2013 Ok, so here is what I have. These parts came with it, I beleive for install: from left to right: Drain adapter kit, Self Perircing Saddle Vaulve, these two with the caps just looks like ball valves for cutting off water in/out, and I'm not sure about the last two parts. Saddle tap is not reversible. Why not something like this https://espressocare...t In Line Valve Or google "John guest under sink tee" for more options, or the add-a-tee would work from Lowes. You'd run the supply line in with the compression fitting included. Is a John Guest under sink tee the same as a murloc easy angle stop? Looks like the same concept, goes inbetween the pipe and the hose under the sink, or for better reference, here: Can't I just pick one of those up from my local hardware store instead of BRS? I'd like to get this rolling today, if at all possible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smorf February 16, 2013 Share February 16, 2013 (edited) YH, here is what you can look for at Home Depot today. You want a brass compression Tee that will screw into your current shutoff valve for your cold water line. It will probably be 3/8" x 3/8" x 1/4". The 3/8" female side will screw onto your old shutoff valve, your braided line for the sink will screw onto the 3/8" male side, and the R/O line will go in the 1/4" side. Start with a piece of R/O tubing that is maybe 6" long. then place one of your white shutoff valves on that. Then use a longer piece to get to your RO unit. Here is an example of the Tee: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202309860/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=compression+fttings&storeId=10051#.UR-3EqWsh8E This one is 3/8" all around, but they may have one that is 1/4" on one output, if not, there are reducers that go from 3/8" compression to 1/4" compression. And since it looks like it doesn't come with a compression nut for your R/O line: http://www.homedepot...51#.UR-y66Wsh8E PM me if you need help with this, I am free today if needed. I worked at Home Depot for 4 years, including one year in plumbing, so I'm pretty good at "making pieces fit". Edited February 16, 2013 by Smorf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smorf February 16, 2013 Share February 16, 2013 Also watch the first minute or so of this, this would be how you connect the plastic r/o line to the Tee: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy February 16, 2013 Share February 16, 2013 And since it looks like it doesn't come with a compression nut for your R/O line: http://www.homedepot...51#.UR-y66Wsh8E that insert won't work or won't work easily with RO tubing as it is not meant to function with the ID of RO line. he'll have a heck of a time getting that inserted, then tightening it. if you have the self-piercing saddle valve that came with your RO unit, then use the compression nut that came with that instead and that will work much easier and securely. hopefully your saddle valve came complete with insert and compression nut - it is hard to tell in the photo of it above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 16, 2013 Author Share February 16, 2013 I would also be willing to get a faucet diverter vaulve, think they would have one of those about at a Depot or Lowes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 17, 2013 Author Share February 17, 2013 Smorff, thaks for the offer to help, I greatly appreciate it. I picked one of these up from home depot today, will be putting in sink tomorrow AM, should get the job done: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami February 17, 2013 Share February 17, 2013 In the earlier picture, the large black clamp-like thing with the quick connect on the side is what I used for the drain side of my old system. It does require you to drill a hole in the descending arm of the p-trap, though. Replacing the trap or just sealing it off with rubber tape is required if you ever un install the unit, but both are simple enough to do. (Sent from my phone) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 17, 2013 Author Share February 17, 2013 Well, it's not the prettiest setup, but it is producing, which means I'm that much closer to getting some water in my new blue line. Don't mind the shot glass of fresh high quality H2O with a half cube of Jans Bio waiting for feeding. The T valve under the sink was a life saver, thanks, Tom, and thank you to everybody for holding my hand through this, I can't wait till I own, and don't have to worry about drilling through walls and permanant fixtures, etc! I would suggest this unit to anybody, as once I understood how to hook it up, it really was plug and play. Now the big question, how do I make sure the pure water coming out is RO/DI... and can I drink it (I hope so, cause' I have...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami February 17, 2013 Share February 17, 2013 Did the unit come with a TDS meter? It should read 0 TDS when you're getting pure RO/DI. You can drink RO/DI but, for me, it tastes a little flat. The RO water is much better tasting in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 18, 2013 Author Share February 18, 2013 Did the unit come with a TDS meter? It should read 0 TDS when you're getting pure RO/DI. You can drink RO/DI but, for me, it tastes a little flat. The RO water is much better tasting in my opinion. It did come with a TDS, but I think it said something about checking only tap water. I'll double check, thanks for the heads up. I gave a glass of RO/DI to my gf, and she loved it, so I'll try the RO and see how she feels about that. It was the only way I could convince her to let me keep it on the kitchen counter. I suppose I could probably mount it underneath the sink, and hook up the drain to the trap, but at least this way it's easier to access and see, and I can slide out the way when I'm done. When I have the space for a big bucket, I'll hook up the auto shutoff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM February 18, 2013 Share February 18, 2013 I see a dual TDS meter. Turn it on. For my BRS RODI moving the switch to the left shows the TDS coming from the RO and to the right shows the TDS coming out of the DI. On mine the RO puts it out at 4 and the DI puts it out at 0. The BRS one has color coded tubing. This one is all white, so make sure you know which one is waste from the RO and which is the good stuff, hehe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldReefer February 18, 2013 Share February 18, 2013 Well, it's not the prettiest setup, but it is producing, which means I'm that much closer to getting some water in my new blue line. Don't mind the shot glass of fresh high quality H2O with a half cube of Jans Bio waiting for feeding. The T valve under the sink was a life saver, thanks, Tom, and thank you to everybody for holding my hand through this, I can't wait till I own, and don't have to worry about drilling through walls and permanant fixtures, etc! I would suggest this unit to anybody, as once I understood how to hook it up, it really was plug and play. Now the big question, how do I make sure the pure water coming out is RO/DI... and can I drink it (I hope so, cause' I have...) That is one impressiv-looking RO/DI UNIT. I put 35 tickets in that box! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 18, 2013 Author Share February 18, 2013 (edited) Gotcha, double checked, mine ranged from out at 4 (then to 3) DI puts out at 0. That is one impressiv-looking RO/DI UNIT. I put 35 tickets in that box! I don't think I quite put 35 in, probably about 20 though! It's definitly going to be one of the most important parts of my build, and an important part of my learning! Edited February 18, 2013 by YHSublime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami February 18, 2013 Share February 18, 2013 That is one impressiv-looking RO/DI UNIT. I put 35 tickets in that box! Is that the one from the meeting? If so, that's been living in my fishroom for six months waiting to be raffled off to the community! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime February 18, 2013 Author Share February 18, 2013 Is that the one from the meeting? If so, that's been living in my fishroom for six months waiting to be raffled off to the community! From your fishroom to my kitchen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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