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The Looking Glass


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Pix taken with cell phone. The color is not accurately depicted. The color is currently set to resemble the Radium 20k with VHO actinics.

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The chain was used to support the LumenArc 3 reflectors. It is not used for the LEDs.

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15" from water surface.

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Cell phone really stinks. White balance made it worse.

FTSLEDFeb2013_zpsfdbc9296.jpg

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How's the blue face angel doing?

 

Blue face is mad because he should have been in the main display weeks ago. The Imperator and Blue face was scheduled to move last week, but the Imperator's dorsal fin was frayed and I am waiting for it to completely heal. I was away for two weeks and did not have an opportunity to conduct water changes, I think the water quality dropped effecting his fins. He was in copper for 4 weeks.

 

The Imperator worries me a little. He no longer eats civilized, he rips the entire Nori strip off the clip and gobbles it whole.

 

Quarantine Ratings: Blue Face 10/10 and Imperator 9/10

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So do u like the ever grows over the MH fixture?

 

For the record, 400w MH is the heavy weight champ and it takes a lot to knock out the champ. Having said that...

 

If you are asking about performance, time will tell. For $125 delivered per unit, I would be foolish not to experiment. It's the perfect time. New setup and I am just starting to stock the tank with frags. My expectations are really clear. I am expecting color and growth rates of a 250w MH. If growth rates begin to challenge 400w rates, we are winning. Lighting is only one variable in the equation and I plan to continue my husbandry to keep the equation balanced. I strongly believe you must have great water quality first, and then intense complete light.

 

What I cannot understand is how other LED manufactures are selling LED units at $900 per unit. Correction, I do understand it but the words "price gouging" comes to mind.

 

For me, LEDs will force me to "re-learn" how to read my corals. I used MH for over 15 years and knew how it was going to perform and how the corals would react to lighting. With LEDs, the option to run 10k through 20k during the course of a day is interesting. Another difference, with MH it was about ensuring that each corner of the tank had adequate coverage, spectrum and intensity. LEDs do not have parabolic reflectors/optics, so it is about getting the LED above the coral. The thre D120s I currently have mounted is enough for a fish only tank, softy, and mixed reef. For a SPS dominated garden I enjoy, three more are needed to even out the Par across the bottom of the reef.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Added the Imperator and Blue Face (BF) a couple days ago.

 

Day 1: Added both fish while lights were out for 18 hours.

Day 2: Imperator and BF staked out their territory. The Scopas and Sailfin attempted to check the BF; I think the BF took the Sailfin's sleeping cave. Also, the BF does not venture far from the cave. The Imperator roams the entire tank looking like an old pro. The king has taken the throne. Eating, well as you may guess, the Imperator can eat. One day, I will post a video of what I am about to describe. I have a Two Little Fishes veggie clip that is secured with a magnet to feed Nori. Many of you may have one in your tank. The Imperator approaches the clip, grabs the Nori and breaks the magnet connection. The clip with magnet attached floats around the tank. Geez. Now I have to monitor the veggie clip as the Imperator eats. I am also feeding him by hand.

 

I suspect by the end of the week, the BF will be roaming the tank as well. The Imperator has not chased the BF or picked on any corals, (knock on wood).

 

Time to clean up and sanitize the QT for the next animals. I have my eyes on the Exquisite, Solon, or Mystery wrasse. Looking for male and female pairs only, if I cannot find any in a couple weeks, I will move the wrasses to the end of the list. Other than the Chalk Bass, not sure what is next.

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Read back on his procedure for getting these challenging (and expensive) fish healthy before putting them in the display. It's more amazing than the tank, I think, to have that kind of perseverance and level of detail.

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I opened up my LEDs and replaced the 8k diodes with 6k and 4.5k.

 

Removed six perimeter screws.

insideLED1_zpsd90b6c3d.jpg

 

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Inside the D120 LED fixure. Three cooling fans, two drivers, and two potentiometers.

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View of LED PCB undercarriage. Remove six screws to disconnect PCB from fixture.

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Optics connected to the LEDs. Gently pull the optics off the LED.

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LED soldered on PCB. The yellow LEDs are the white LEDs and the clear LEDs are the blue LEDs.

 

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LEDs removed from the PCB. I used a 35w soldering iron to remove the LEDs. Five seconds to remove one LED.

 

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Replacement complete. I used Arctic Silver for thermal paste and I did not need to use any additional solder. Testing the unit to ensure operation. LEDs on ~5 percent.

 

insideLED10_zpsa1eef376.jpg

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looks good, sir. thanks for posting. i was gonna ask what wattage soldering iron used, thanks for posting that information. thermal paste is a nice touch too. not necessary but can only help, really. hope you enjoy the new layout!

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looks good, sir. thanks for posting. i was gonna ask what wattage soldering iron used, thanks for posting that information. thermal paste is a nice touch too. not necessary but can only help, really. hope you enjoy the new layout!

Awsome post. Will be helpful for me when I eventually get around to making some revisions to my layout.

 

Ditto, really great to see, it seems pretty easy. Now if only I had the money to get in on all these group buys. Tank looks great btw, really like your rockwork!

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I took some time to look through your thread and I have to say, it's very inspiring and educational. Not only does the tank just look nice but the thought you put behind what you did is impressive, particularly your QT method. That by itself is something everyone should read.

 

Very nice indeed.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The Angels are doing very well. The Blueface has grown quite a bit and occasionally challenges the Imp. I have one Mille that the Blueface taps, but nothing major. I removed the female Blue Throat because she constantly paced the front glass, really annoying.

 

QTs are empty, dry and put away until I find something that excites me. I thought about going down the multiple Wrasse path, but I am not ready to play that game. Some things to consider, male color loss, introducing at the same time, and acclimation boxes.

 

The short list: Cirrhilabrus solorensis, Cirrhilabrus jordani, Paracheilinus mccoskeri, and Pseudocheilinus ocellatus. I do plan to add one Serranus tortugarum at some point.

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  • 1 month later...

How is the tank looking these days? Really have enjoyed reading all you have done.

 

Also, what d120 led layout are you using and do you have a shot with a decent color rendering compared to what you see physically standing there at your tank?

 

cheers!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update please! I really can't believe you switched to LEDs, but more importantly, I can't believe you'll stick with them over your MH performance (which was the envy by many!)  Happy to be proven wrong though!

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I wish there was more to report.  The tank is on auto pilot.  LEDs have been running at 100% (Radium-esque) for about  3-4 weeks.  In respect to coral color, the LEDs are meeting my expectations, colors are vibrant and deep.  Corals are growing at the rate of 1/4" per month, equivalent to a 400w Radium.  For perspective, I was getting about 1/2" growth per month under the 400w 10k. 

 

No plans for any new fish, but I heard Roozen has a GoldFlake available.  I .. must .. resist!

 

I have about 40 SPS corals in the system with another 20 to go.  Battle Corals, Atlantis, Reef Raft, and Unique Corals have a few I want.

 

To be clear, I am not expecting the LEDs to outperform a 400w 10k.  At this point, I am getting growth and color equivalent to a 400w Radium.

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  • 1 month later...

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