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F&Fmgr

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Everything posted by F&Fmgr

  1. I was considering making off with the tank - but I don't think I could have fit it into Angelique's car As far as the issues we had with Tom at AGE: He was preoccupied with getting their new equipment in and we realized that this wasn't standard customer service for them. We will be continuing to deal with Tom, as the end product is too nice to argue about. Could you do me a favor and try to take some pictures of the tank going down the stairs? I'm trying to visualize it in my mind and I can't. Thanks, Sean
  2. marineland Bio-spira....our saving grace on recycling systems Sean
  3. Thanks Bob!! Yes, the blueberry gorgonians are non photsynthetic filter feeders. We usually tank them for about 2-3 weeks before they are for sale, Bob you caught them in their 5th week here i believe. Not hardy like a toadstool, but compared to gorgonians like the yellow and red ones you see elsewhere it is much sturdier. Just remember to target feed it 2-3x a weeks when the polyps are opened and it'll do great! Thanks again for the kind words, (maureen also ) Sean
  4. Ive always used about 4" of an Ultra Fine crushed coral, aragonite packs up after time IME. Ive found a brand a sand that has great diffusion so there are no truly anaerobic areas. in my coral trays I can put an entire bar of cyclopeeze in for one feeding and absolutely no fluctuations in ammonia,nitrite, or nitrate....not a regular practice but its happened on accident before. On the other hand, ive never had luck with coarse substrates, shallow sand beds, or BB....maybe I suck. .02 Sean
  5. I like a product called Copper Power, by Endich....its a heavily chelated copper so u want to keeep the level higher like @ 2.5-3.0 ppm or mG/L. We use it here with great success. Any store should be able to get it for you. Sean
  6. reverse photoperiods in refugiums stabilize the pH by consuming co2 and creating O2. My experience with all photosynthetic plants is that they need darkness for some amount of time to utilize nutrients. you might get growth with the lights on 24hrs a day, but i'd bet you'd get more growth in your fuge by just running the light opposite your main lights. Sean
  7. F&Fmgr

    Sun Polyps

    From the album: Pics

  8. From the album: Pics

  9. F&Fmgr

    Red Lobo

    From the album: Pics

  10. F&Fmgr

    Red & Green Acan

    From the album: Pics

  11. F&Fmgr

    Red & Blue Acan

    From the album: Pics

  12. From the album: Pics

  13. From the album: Pics

  14. F&Fmgr

    Green Egg Polyps

    From the album: Pics

  15. F&Fmgr

    Golden Eye Chalice

    From the album: Pics

  16. F&Fmgr

    Eclipse Polyps

    From the album: Pics

  17. F&Fmgr

    Bubble Coral

    From the album: Pics

  18. F&Fmgr

    Blueberry Gorgonia

    From the album: Pics

  19. F&Fmgr

    Blue Polyps

    From the album: Pics

  20. thumbs up to the refractometers Not a fan of electronic meters...maybe imma Dud, but ive always had bad luck with them Sean
  21. i would test your alkalinity again with a couple different tests. My guess is that test isnt right. Low alkalinity is usually caused by a build up of acids....namely carbonic acid(CO2). Carbonic acid usually build up if you have a lack of O2. this coul;d explain the acro death and cyano. Also you said you light your refugium 24 hrs a day? the algae needs a photperiod of at least 10 hours dark Sean
  22. Fish will be out of QT hopefully 26th or 27th. thanks for the review guys Sean
  23. dont use any metal. even SS can rust in the right conditions Sean
  24. seachem for mag/cal t marin for phosphate
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