NAGA

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v660/roy...nt=MOV03083.flv

who is the mfg. and how old is it? Important to know because if you get too carried away with the drill/buffing wheel you can induce stress cracks which you will never get rid of. Older tanks require a little more care with the buffer.

Steve, just think though .....................your probably going to do a better job than they did.

Well depending on where you live I'd hit up on a plastic fabrication shop and see if they will sell you some. The shops here in Md. certainly will but, I don't know where in VA. Now this is a stretch but, I have seen what looks like the right stuff at Home Depot. It's in the hardware tool dept. hanging up with some other compounds. What your looking for is the light blue compound. Any other color is not going to be the right one no matter what they tell you. Just be sure to read it to see that it is for plastic. It's not the best but, for where to go get something the easiest way that is where you want to go. Now the 215gallon...............is this the tank from lmeyer I made 10 yrs ago?

three ways IMO; 1) You get a high speed drill (+2500rpm and + 6amps) with a 8" buffing wheel with some polishing compound. This along with some 400 grit to 1200 grit sand paper and manually knock it out by wet sanding and buff polishing with your drill. or 2) fill the tank up and have some good lighting on it and use your magnet cleaner with sandpaper on the inside and wet sand underwater so-to-speak. Start off with some 400 grit and work up til you get to 1200 grit and then empty the tank and buff out the fine grit sanding. 3) pay someone to do it how big is this tank? and also what counts is how big of an opening in the top of the tank you have to work through in accessing the front panel while sanding. It's time consuming for sure but, if you get a good deal on the tank it just might be well worth it. also, keep in mind that you don't want to sand 1.5" or closer to any of the outside edges as that will not be able to be accessed by your buffing wheel unless you get a real small wheel.

thanks for that link. To show you what I have http://www.championlighting.com/product.ph...=386&page=1 and although it's a dual channel unit what I can replace it with does not have to be dual channel. What is important is that whatever is used it can pump 25 ft. away. Something in the neighborhood of 2 gpd is all it would need to be able to do. The problem with the reeffiller is that it is noisey and if any part of the motor breaks the whole unit is trashed as you cannot order the various motor or gear housing parts separately. You can only get the plastic parts on the rotating part replaced.

I am looking to replace one of those dual channel reef filler pumps that you get from Champion Lighting. Does anyone have any experience with a better quality unit. I'd imagine there is some dual channel peristaltic pump that works. Suggestions? I need something that can pump about 25 feet away from the tank. Somebody a while back said that the Spectrapure liter meter can be set up for auto water changes......true?

I have seen two explode and 3 malfunction and kill a lot of stuff...........not worth the risk

You know Tim.............I personally love watching that stuff and I will share something I did once that was quite spectacular to watch and perhaps you can try it if you dare. I put up a Super Jumbo Maryland Crab ( which was hand picked from hundreds that came off the boat) against a 16" Clown Trigger. Battle lasted about 50 minutes at which point the Clown Trigger took out the eyesight of the crab and then bit by bit dismembered the crab. Quite gruesome and would have been a spectacular thing to tape but, didn't think of it at the time. The crab though got a number of licks on the trigger and the trigger did not come out unscathed. He definitely was in some pain but, earned that meal. GET A BIG BLUE CRAB AND WATCH THEM DUKE IT OUT!

Stunning and spectacular come to mind Khanh!!!

Impressive John!

lol

You put a hole half the distance/diameter of what you want for a final dimension from the hole to the router bit in the material. Then in that hole put a pin (1/4" diameter or something) in that hole. Basically the pin that is in the router table works as a pivit point to spin the material around on the router table with the router bit just breaking through the material. When you spin the material and the router bit cuts as you spin you get a perfect circle. It's something you have to be careful of because you can easily lose a finger if you let it get away from you.

I think that store is the biggest sleeper store around...........................very quiet they have built up their stuff without a lot of publicity. You walk in and you'd have no idea that they would be a place to buy corals from til you walk in the back. I'd love to know what Crusty wars are about...............if I think it is what I think it is that sounds like fun!

Those big coral tanks were custom made by me last summer. From what I remember they are 59"x34" by something like 14" tall. They have invested a lot in that new system and the last time I was there it was full of corals as well. They don't have a lot priced so it is frustrating to see how much some of the things are. They had a cubicle rack set up there as well but, it was empty the last time I saw it.

Impressive!

If bonding on a machined/routed/jointed edge weldon 4 or 5 will work best. Using the pin method works well with these solvents when you have a good edge to bond to. I don't reccommend these solvents whatsoever when using a sawcut edge. Weldon16 is good for a filler but, really has no strength as that really has a lot of "fillers" mixed in the solvent used to thicken it up. I am speaking in laymans terms here. 40 is a little better but, really likes to be annealed to max out it's strength potential. It does breakdown after a couple of years especially when there is UV light exposure and in our hobby that pertains particularly to halides. Its' slow to cure but, that gives it its strength. The big difference between the Weldon 3, 4, & 5 is the amount of time it takes to setup. 5 sets up the slowest of the solvent bonds and on small sumps and tanks for the novice IMO is the best but, 4 isn't much different and far more available locally. 3 really sets up fast and doesn't offer much strength due to this but, it's better than 16 anyday. hth's

Your welcome and spending that little bit extra and what that gives you is well worth it. I have seen & heard horror stories with FF or any other extruded material (which ff is) coming apart after anywhere from 30 days to as long as two years. Basically think of FF material as a piece of steak with a lot of fat (or what I call fillers in the material) and the GP or the other brands mentioned are much leaner where with the bonding qualities are far better.

Actually Darren (not sure of his screen name) but, he has a Jelly Tank.

Piedmont is right about Precision Plastics but, they did not do the Jelly Fish Tanks as I was working there when that exhibit was done. They however did do the Seahorse exhibit tanks of which I built some of them. Unless its a monster tank the B aquarium used them a lot but, that was many years ago.

FF is not nearly as good bonding to itself as compared to the others I listed. Do what you want but, from my experience its something you want to stay away from and given the price is not that much more for the safety of not adding more risk to a diy failure its well worth the extra $$.

well for those that need to know the purchase I made was not with my funds as it was a brokered deal in which I was the transferring agent. Art has been paid a small part of what I owe and I will continue to pay as much as I can. Certainly it's not as fast as everyone would like including myself.

salinity, ca levels, kh levels, and lighting were all pretty close. As I mentioned I have gotten by the first week but, I am concerned with what happens after a month when they decide to really get going whether or not they freak out and crash. It was a lot to do in a day and I had a lot of help. If this takes it should make for a pretty great looking tank.

I just recently purchased 70 sps colonies/frags from an established reef tank to another and was wondering if anyone had ever moved that many sps corals at one time and what did they do when they did it? What prep work did you do and did you lose any? So far I have not lost any and it has been about a week now but, I am wondering if that is only one hurdle of perhaps more hurdles that I have to watch for. Is there another period after a move like that where sps corals after recently being moved are vunerable or susceptable to dying? I am just wondering if after they are acclimated that when they begin to get growing again if there may be some losses.

You want to stay away from FF material for sump building or tank building as it has a lot of styrene in it where the bonding properties aren't nearly as good as the cast "GP" material. Use Plexi G Polycast/Spartech Acrilite GP