rioreef

Correct, the ridgid tubing is your safety. The tank will only drain down to the tubing intake, at that point a siphon break will occur. Measure down on tank to the level you would want to take out (i.e., one gallon) and then cut the ridgid u-bent tubing to this level. Then hang on the tank and attach flexible tubing down to your waste jug. Ridged & flexible airline tubing should be sufficient and wont create a 'water draining' sound that would cause concern with our coworkers. There are some airline holders that will nicely bend flexible airline over a tankwall if you dont want to use ridgid tubing.

Thanks for the info Tom. Your always a great source.

No backup supply. Is it ok to put the EB8 on a surge protector? In a sense daisy chaining power strips? Any idea on cost for whole house surge protector?

Graph view

Today in the morning I lost power for about 1 second and all came back. I know businesses in Ashburn were also hit. Everything on the tank came back on however this evening I looked at Fusion and noticed the Amp usage tile. Spiked at 31.6 !!!! Is this normally what happens when power is restored after an outage and what the Apex is subjected to? Should the Apex/EB8 be placed on a surge protector or only straight to wall socket and install a whole house surge protector?

Francis, So sorry to here about this truely devistating situation. Hang in there! Chris

Good to here from you Sean. I miss being able to make a quick run by your old place.

Bulk Reef Supply http://aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com/reefing/Colored-Pvc

I like your two last posts. At least you are still in the game...

Awesome project. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.

Years ago I had a bunch of the stuff. Although a soft coral, it is strong and I would grab it near the base and pull it off. There would be some areas that did not come off and then I delt with each of those.

I have a 90, same Durso. Both the drain and return have valves on them and I T off the return similar to your pic in post #5. I have to turn the valve on the drain to slow it to get a balance between it and the return. Fine tuning done with a combination of the drain valve and the valve on the T'd line that goes into my refugium section of sump. Doing this, I can achieve a quite overflow. Operational like that for 11 years now. Your setup will require adjustments based on plumbing and return pump flow.

Died off or removed in the case of the GSP, from the few pieces got from you in I think in 2005, the stuff had taken over half of my rock and countless other corals.

Welcome back Jake! Nothing like someone from the past to bring out responses from long time WAMAS reefers in a single thread. I too got corals from Jake back in 2005 but unfortunately, non are with me.

i I have put a blanket or two over and around tank. Make sure you unplug lights incase power comes back on.

83 Oldsmobile, new 500W/2A power inverter, and a 100 foot extension cord for a couple of Powerheads and a 150w heater.

After many years I lost the battle. Over the summer I removed most of the rock and cleaned it. Tons of detritus in the rock. Upon close inspection many many tiny bubble algae were present. Got all those off with a pick-tool down into the crevases, scrubbed the rock, vinegar bath for a couple of weeks, and then bleached the rock (chemically and by sun). Now, rock is in brute to get the bacteria back and ready for tank. Basically, starting over on the rock (and sand). I know this will not get everything (sump, overflow, etc) but, I will have my tank back and can tackle when necessary. Good luck in your efforts.

Can't be noisier than my skimmer. I did notice the heat but that was when I was running at max power

40QD is on right side of 90 gal and the 6055 on the other side. Return from sump is pointed down back wall. Stirring up a lot, so I have the foam filter that came with 40QD and cleaning it every hour. Slows the flow but necessary to clean water column

I have not posted in a long while but had to today. Clam I have took a turn for the worst yesterday and I removed it today. Ten years in my tank and shell grew to 10+ inches. Sorry to see it go. After I took care of that and cleared the air of the bad smell a new addition to the tank arrived Got a Vortech MP40W Quiet Drive! I needed more flow and this does the trick. I moved my Tunze 6055 to the other end of the tank to counter and churn the water. Works well this way. I can tell you for all the complaints I read about the old MP40 and noise to the point many did not turn up to full strength. Not an issue with the quite drive model. Turn up all the way now (4,500 gph) at constant speed and only sound is a low hum. Cooling fan in hood make more noise. Very happy with it. If your on the fence a out getting one, buy it.

Home grown WAMAS modification from Lazar to control the Eheim using a 12v power supply and a controller. Designed to be able to stop feeding action if other functions fail on tank.

www.autotopoff.com No problems for 9 years, float guards available. I do use a sump, but also designed for display tank use. Many options available from autotopoff.

Now I know what was happening. Time to wire the reflectors after 9 years of getting an occasional 'tingle'.

Just curious, but if the outlet is at the bottom would the volume of water above it (180 gal) create a lot of pressure and cause pump issues, unless you had a powerful high head pump? Even on a closed loop.

I get condensation after the lights go out but, will evaporate when the glass warms up and the fans are running after the lights (T5s) come on. Also, I have two panes that do not completely cover (front to back). I leave gaps of about 3/4 between each and along the front and back allowing for evaporation to escape.