menglish

Andrew, no worries at all. You will find lots of help here. Just ask you questions. Regarding the frag, it will be here for you when you are ready to receive it

Welcome to the club. you will find that you can get lots of help here Hit me up when you tank is ready. i will give you a frag

So, at first i was thinking that your flush valve was turned to flush the membrane, so recheck that. 30 psi is very low, a booster pump is needed. I have anywhere bw 60-90psi. The other think i have is a 75g upgrade kit from BRS. Now my waste is significantly reduced. 1g waste for ever 1g RODI produced. You can get a 1 g jug and just measure exactly what your waste and production ratio is. My waste water, i put it in a 75g storage bin outside and i use it to water the lawn/garden. Good luck Milton

collecting cup?

been managing it. It is still there but not a problem

I am not very up with the technology, but i think Zoom is a good candidate. With an account, one can host a large group. the Moderator idea is a good on. I could not tell you how to do that. where are our teckie members?

Lucky you.

I think this is a good idea. i was thinking of a format to have a group chat for members. This I think could work. Certainly a way for newer members 9and seasoned ones too) to get some expert advice on reef related topics

I have tired it without success. It only knock them back for a few weeks then they returned. I used as much as 4mg/gal for up to 1 week. It still did not completely get rid of them. If you could take the rock out

So, I took my skimmer off like to give it a good cleaning. Ran the whole skimmer in a solution of diluted vinegar over night, i then turn it off and completed the cleaning. Put it back together and reinstalled it into the sump, turned it on and nothing, It wont come back on. Its a Reef octopus Regal 220INT skimmer with a DC pump. The pump get power as the power brick is on and when plugged in, the lights on the controller all turns on for a sec then back off. Any ideas what the problem could be? CoralVue says they no longer have parts for it and i will have to buy a new pump ($375). Hard for me to accept its broken when it was working fine only a few mins before i completed the cleaning. Figured i will ask to see if i can avoid buying a new pump. Much thanks

Lynn, let me take that off your hands. I will give it a GREAT home

do a Triton ICP to see if all is ok. Those parameters look fine, but you are not testing for everything

I use a Geo that i am quite happy with. https://www.geosreef.com/product-category/equipment/reactors/calcium-reactors/ I think mine is a 618. I added an Avast reactor as my second chamber (it was cheaper and i had one lying abound). Lot of people talk about the carbon doser, but i do not use one and i doubt the cost is worth it. I do not tune the reactor based on bubble rate, I use the pH of the CaRx chamber to control it so i think the extra cost may not be worth it. I set the effelent rate to about 80-100 mls/min and never change it. I increase or decrease the ph in the chamber to tune it.

got a frag?

is this your?

Make sure the screen on the tank is really tight.

300 + PAR on the sand bed may be too much. What do you plan to put down there?

I think that many anthias would be awesome to look at, especially with one super male. They are expensive though, about $60 each.

What about anthias for you shoaling fish? I am liking bartlett or bimarcs. As i am sure you know, chromis tend to pick one another off. I started my 180 with 9. I ended up with one a few months later. Now i have none.

That i looking really good. You need more of the different colors

So i finally got the replacement gaskets in and decided to take the overflow box off. It turns out two of the bulkheads were a bit loose. I tighten then another turn or so and the leak has stopped. kept rechecking it all day and so far it has been bone dry. Turns out to be an easy fix. Thanks all for your suggestions

Hi Isaac, I am in agreement with you. The plan is to remove the overflow box and then inspect it to see if there are any cracks or if the gasket is just loose. As it will be very cumbersome to get the box off, I will wait until i receive the replacement gaskets that way i can replace them at the same time if necessary. Fortunately, the leak is very slow so i am keeping an eye on it while i wait.

Hi Dave, the overflow is 5 feel long, 6" deep and 4" wide. It is held to the tank by 3 2" ABS bulkheads and has a bean animal overflow (3- 1.5" pipes). I am waiting to get in some new gaskets to swap our or perhaps i just need to tighten the bulkheads a bit more. I have to take off the canopy to even get access to the center bulkhead so it requires 2 people to do it. Then i have to use a step ladder to reach over the tank. I have my wife on an intense weight training schedule so she can help me lift the hood off () I am hoping i can fix it by the end of the week

If there is a crack, it is a very small one as the water line looks the normal height and the leak is very slow. more like a slow seep. Yes, I can talk the overflow out. I did ordered some replacement gaskets but they are not going to be here until later in the week

So, my optimism has been shattered. I turned on the return pump this AM and the tank is still leaking. :( I can detect water along the entire length of the overflow box (5 feet) not sure when it is coming out. There are 3 2" bulkheads spaced inside the overflow box. Is is possible that at least one of them is leaking? Those bulkheads are emptying directly into the overflow, so how is water getting between the bk of the tank and the overflow box? any other suggestions? Many thanks