Glenn

I ordered it and really, there are no tips ... just increase/decrease in small increments til you get the pressure you want.

A couple posts have mentioned it briefly, but do you have a controller? If not, you could also think about getting one so that if your water temp gets up to 82 then your MH lights will cut off until the water temps drop back down to a better temp. Or, as someone else suggested, use the controller to turn your lights off from (example) noon to 3pm, then back on for some evening hours.

To add to the costs that Rob gave for the drivers and LEDs, I think I paid about $65 for the two heatsinks. Incidentals (wire, solder, etc) were probably another $20. I'll try to get some more pics after the next build.

The tank is a 50g acrylic - approx 36x15x20tall. As you can see, it's pretty sparse for now - everything was moved from the 60cube and we're not working to enhance it much since we're moving in the Fall and want to limit livestock. I am going to add ONE piece of SPS for an LED test :-) The heatsinks are standard heatsinkusa.com type heatsinks - two 4.5x 12's, welded together to make a 9.12 heatsink. (The welding was done by iangibby before he sold them to me.) The LEDs are placed 6x4 across the heatsink - 3 CW's and 3 RB's, approx 2" apart, running down the 12" length of heatsink, the 2nd row is again 3 CW's and 3 RB's, alternating the pattern of the first row, and continuing the same pattern for the 3rd and 4th rows. For now, no optics. I may change that once I get the 2nd LED build completed. The heatsink is sitting 3/4" off the top of the aquarium - in the 6pm picture (pic #1) you can see the shadows that this creates in the upper corners of the tank. Since everything in this tank is 'front and center' of the tank, the shadows are not an issue. When I move all of this (and maybe additional LED builds) to the 180 (6x2x2), and have more liverock and livestock, I won't want the shadows.

(Hope this is appropriate forum for this) First, thanks to Rob G. (TheFishman65) for the Group Buy on the LEDs and drivers, and some technical assistance. And thanks to Iangibby for the two heatsinks. Commentary: I plan to build TWO 24-LED units but am having issues with the 2nd build so these pics are one build with twelve 3-watt CREE Cool Whites (CW) and twelve 3-watt CREE Royal Blues (RB). Both strings are connected to my Apex for dimming ability. Pic 1 - 1800hrs - 100% CW, 100% RB Pic 2 - 1830hrs - 75% CW, 100% RB Pic 3 - 1900hrs - 50% CW, 100% RB Pic 4 - 1930hrs - 25% CW, 75% RB Pic 5 - 2000hrs - 0% CW, 50% RB Pic 6 - 2030hrs - 0% CW, 25% RB (ps - sorry about the reflections - I'll actually try to take some better pics next weekend (when I have the 2nd build in-place (fingers crossed :-) ))

today's daily deal is the 453nm BLUE light http://www.marinedepot.com/Ecoxotic_Cannon_50_watt_LED_Pendant_453nm_Blue_with_Hanging_Kit_-Ecoxotic-XX06800-FILTFILDLP-XX06801-vi.html

ha -- guess I didn't realize that when I saw the $10 shipping .. so I will not be ordering for anyone other than Guy, since he lives so close to me .. thanks for letting me know.

I plan to order TWO of them myself and shipping is "only" $10, but if anyone wants to tag along and meet at The Marine Scene for pick-up, drop me a PM and I'll add to the order. Deadline - 5pm today

I think our new house will be 1.5-2 hrs from Atlanta .. THIS will surely make the list of things to do in retirement ! Thanks for the pics

I just received the Typhoon III yesterday (THANK YOU) and am now able to see the very low water pressure that I am working with in my house supply (20-40psi). I ordered the Typhoon with the garden hose adapter and prefer to keep it that way. Can the booster pump also be ordered with a garden hose male adapter on one end and a garden hose female adapter on the other?

Even the cats like to watch the fish go by

Eric - thanks for the awesome suggestion ! Guy - you're now first on the list if I'm able to get the 60s

I think I may have mentioned a few times that I'm starting to buy stuff now (while I'm fully employed) to help build my retirement tank - a 6x2x2 180g tank. I currently have two MP40's and am wondering if I need additional flow and how much. The return pump will be something in the 1200-1800gph range. Although I won't start with SPS, I do plan to graduate to them after getting the new tank established. Thanks to another member, I "think" I have the opportunity to buy two MP60's for about a grand or two MP40's for about $700. So - how much flow would I need and which should I buy?

I had a 24" cube with two MP10's and loved the flow that I got with them .. they weren't wireless so I just made sure that I waited about 30secs before I turned the 2nd one on - gave me a little different flow like you get with anti-sync mode in the wireless ones. Guy - is that 1/2 off (in store) good for anything ??? I'm stocking up on goodies for my 180 build and I think I could use two more MP40's .. or 60's if they have them !!!

Since their business is located in FL, I doubt they have a physical presense in NOVA, except when they come up for shows. However, if you remember to use the discount code (10%) that's shown in their forum, that will completely offset the cost of shipping ... Typhoon ($270) - discount ($27) + shipping ($25) I'm hoping that mine arrives sometime this week

and, as Trockafella alluded to, even if you have an anemone in the tank, it doesn't mean the clowns will like it. I have two tanks with clown pairs (not "paired up yet :-( ) and RBTA's and neither pair is interested in the RBTA's. One pair hosts nothing while the other pairs hosts some large fuzzy mushrooms. Nature is just weird sometimes

While my current 50gpd RO is working fine for our tanks, I plan to upgrade to a larger RODI for the new tank and move of one of my current tanks. The new tank is a 6x2x2, 180g RR tanks and the one that I'm taking with me is a 50g acrylic. My question is basically for those of you with larger tanks - while a 150gpd RODI will get the tank filled in a little over a day, I'm sure I won't need that much capacity for my normal usage. SO --- should I look towards a minimal upgrade (75gpd, approx $150), the larger upgrade (100gpd, also $150), or is the big-boy unit (150gpd, $270) gonna pay for itself in the long run. NOTE: prices listed are from AirWaterIce

My very-small Picasso's are showing no signs of sexing behavior at all, but my Perc's (one larger than the other) and my Occi's (ditto on size) are starting to nip/chase/hang-out so maybe they'll start claiming some turf for eggs soon :-)

ditto for the 225g

I remember the LED strips from my search - I think their site also says that they are only warranted if used with their heatsink (although theirs seems to be identical to the ones on heatsinkusa.com)

IMO, baffles also help you regulate the volume of water in the separate cells. If you have a skimmer in the sump, and it needs a certain water height to work properly, a baffle will maintain the constant water level.

Interesting - never really thought about this before. The B&W pair host in some large fuzzy mushrooms and stay in the lower third of the tank near the mushrooms. The GoldBar Maroons host in an RBTA and say near the tank bottom with the anemone. The true Percula pair, Picasso pair, and Occellaris pair don't host and stay at/near the top of the tank.

Awesome tank - but VERY heavy if it's all-glass like me. I had mine set up for freshwater (Frontosa's - African cichlids) until an unfortunate heater accident. Now it's the winter home of our 12" Leopard Tortoise. As others have said, take some time in the planning of equipment and space allocation (under the tank) because big tanks usually need big equipment.

I knew there was something that I liked about you ! :clap:

We're going to be doing a tank change when I get home from this trip and I like this idea -- thanks p.s. - hope everyone is enjoying the weather, and what's to come, up there. It's 75 and sunny here today :-)