sen5241b

True. I read a dozen forums on closed zoas and, ruling out pests and high 'trates, there doesn't seem to be any common cause or pattern to it.

Some months ago I had a nitrate/phosphate spike and my zoas closed completely. I resolved the trate issue months ago but the zoas never fully reopened. Currently phosphates .01 and nitrates a 1 or 2 ppm. The zoas are reaching up stem-like towards the light even though they are getting at least 100 PAR. These same zoas grew like wild fire under metal halides. Anyone had this problem?

I just changed my program to 8 hours of blue and purple with very small amounts of green and red, like 5% and approximately 20% UV. Overall I have reduced light so I can't believe it would be harmful. In the video Fox said when he dove down on reefs it seemed it was all blue light. When I dove a reef in Indonesia earlier this year, it surprised me how dim the light is at only 20 feet. Seems like the biggest myth in this hobby is you need tons of light. My biggest mistake was burning corals under too much light.

All blue light, 12 hours of light a day, "flow more important that light", 2 stage quarantine for months Does anyone run a few errands and like this? https://youtu.be/jx0gU7DumDo Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I have this gray silt on the rock all the time. I stir it up with a baster and the filter takes some out. Do I need more flow? Can plating corals grow on this silt? Does anyone else have this? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

https://www.facebook.com/DeepLookPBS/videos/942419729275940/?from=watch_www_rhc&video_id=942419729275940&upstream_player_source=rhc&autoplay_expanded=1

I discarded the first half cup and then filled a half gallon and tested it.

All good info. I did not know chlorine can ruin an RO membrane.

Someone gave me a 5 stage water filter. It outputs TDS 25 water. Is there some way to tell what stage filter needs replacing?

Had a cyano problem recently and I was certain my water was TDS zero. Put my finger on the inside of the freshwater reservoir and I could feel a slime growing in there. Put TDS meter IN the reservoir and TDS 200! Have you checked TDS of the water in the reservoir?

The trap made from a plastic, one liter coke bottle works pretty well. I put three in a tank baited with preferably live food and it worked well.

I would not underestimate the maliciousness of criminals.

If algae "outcompetes the cheato" wouldn't you just get a bigger refugium with more cheato? BRS did a test of cheato and it seemed very effective at removing phosphates. Maybe a turf scrubber would remove nitrates.

What does a turf scrubber do that a refugium filled with cheato doesn't?

Its one thing to steal the shark for your own tank but its vicious and pretty f---ing evil to dump bleach in the system on the way out. They are facing felony charges. What will happen to the thief's tank while he is in jail?

I have a large HOB refugium on my 29 and the out spout grows algae like crazy. De facto a turf scrubber. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ocean-Refugium-Aquarium-Nursery/dp/B01FRX9DW0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1533217024&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hang+on+back+refugium&psc=1

The red in the second pic might be the brightest red I've seen in a coral.

I had the same problem recently --mysterious nitrates. I couldn't figure out what it was and corals kept dying. I did two 50% water changes and it barely made a difference. Finally I put my finger in my fresh water reservoir and noticed a layer of slime on the inside of the container. TDS meter said the water in there was 200. I cleaned the entire thing out, put new water in then did two 50% water changes -- problem solved.

How much light are they under now?

That was my thinking. Theoretically if the PAR and spectrum are exactly the same in the source and destination tank then no light acclimation would be necessary.

I am thinking yes you still need to light acclimate because although the source tank and the destination tank may have the same PAR the spectrum could be very different. In other words both tanks have same PAR but very different levels of blue, green, UV etc. Is that possible?

I'm thinking Emerald Psammacora. Compare with this: https://www.pacificeastaquaculture.com/Emerald-Psammacora-WYSIWYG-X-A1911-Prodview.html

Glad your move went well. How did your corals do after the move?

"In ocean" coral farms are proliferating in Indonesia and other places. Sustainability is the most important thing.

Thanks. Will try that.