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Although I have not moved a tank I have completely broke down my 29G put it back together again in a day. I washed detritus out of my sand using tank water and I believe it helped. Think about the order in which you need to break down and reassemble the tank at it's destination. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

$6000 ?

Maybe so, I was trying to explore a connection between his failure to grow macroalgae and possibly low phosphates. The only time I've seen my own cheato shrink is when phosphate adsorption competed it with or I had a weak bulb. Several times I have replaced an old bulb with a fresh one and my cheato growth took off. Hope that helps. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Good answer and good info. (But still why would BRS be "deceptive"?)

BRS 'deceptive'? You think they're lying to us? I think their conclusion was sound. Their videos are on YouTube. They provided a detailed explanation of their methodology and how they came to that conclusion. Before you criticize it I would suggest you watch it. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

According to BRS Cheato feeds primarily on phosphates. My cheato grows unless I add Phosban and then it starts shrinking. MY PO3 seems to always test low.

ABI 12W Deep Red 660nm LED Bloom Booster Grow Light Bulb for Flowering and Spectrum Enhancement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H2Y5U4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2bKUBbZGWGMSB Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I have strong red light on my fuge for months and I've not seen any rapid growth of cheato. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I does seem like the greater issue of sustainability is not given priority as it should. If they decided against any wild harvesting I would not blame them. In the last few years a lot of coral farms have popped in Indonesia. Why would you ban the farms from exporting? The risk is they could kill those businesses.

Looks like a black snail without a shell Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Absolute best explanation yet of what's going on with the whole Coral ban and it doesn't seem to be over: https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1849936048424123&id=254025534681857 Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I've spent a lot of time on the Delaware seashore. Like you said you should bring a test kit. I wonder if the bay water has the same salinity as the ocean or its high in nitrates. Maybe those plants need that.

Seems like cyphastrea has a very long light-acclimation period.

Do some color forms grow under high light and some low light?

I had the reddish, rust colored cyphastrea. I acclimated it to higher light fairly fast, say in about a month from 30 PAR up to about 50 and it spread like wildfire in a few months. When I switched to LEDs it died back and was gone. A Tidal Gardens video suggest very low light for cyphastrea. I just got a blue-green cyphastrea. I put it under 30 PAR for about 2 weeks and then moved it up to about 40 and it started bleaching. I examine new corals daily with a large magnifying glass for the slightest sign of trouble so I can react faster. How much light do you give your cyphastrea? PAR if you have it. What color form do you have? How fast does yours double? Anyone tried putting it in shade?

Can you rule out to much light? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

also, don't forget to add some colonial hydroids

Let me know who the winner is.

Holy cow! Bad luck. Hope you can salvage what you have.

I've done more 50% water changes than I can recall and my tank always look better but you must sure salinity the temperature match perfectly. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

If you ever dove on an ocean reef down to about 20 feet the first thing you might notice is how dim the light is compared to a typical tank. The red circles are PAR? PAR on that sand bed seems high. I wonder if a low light coral like cyphastrea could grow anywhere in that tank.

I just got back from Pacific East Aquaculture and they're running all blue light with strong flow. This is changed since I was last there. Since I switched to all blue my corals are perking up. My zoas have been closed for months and now they're open. He did say some shallow water corals like acroporas need some white light too Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I had to do something in my situation because my fresh water reservoir got contaminated Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I've done many three-day blackouts followed by 50% water change and it gets rid of algae in my tank. I measured phosphates and nitrates before the blackout and at the end of the blackout and as the algae dies off the phosphates and nitrates rise. I measured the phosphates and nitrates after 50% water change and yes they dropped in half. One thing I have learned in this Hobby is what happens in one tank may not happen in another tank so I can't say if this would apply to your tank but it did work for me. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Pacific East Aquaculture is selling pairs for $29 Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk