lanman

Dragon Eye zoa's, it appears. bob

Agreed - depends on how much cement is in there - and how much water you're putting it into. If the pH starts to climb - just take it out and soak it for a while... bob

Okay... Step 1 - Get a larger tank. 80-120 gallons is a proper 'step up' from 24. Step 2 - Set the new tank up completely, with all new equipment, and make sure it is ready to take care of all of your current occupants. Step 3 - move everything to the new tank!! Step 4 - buy more corals, fish, etc. to fill up the new tank. Step 5 - start planning for your 400-gallon upgrade. bob

Depending on how big a piece you need... Marble tiles would be fine. Probably any ceramic tile - basically anything that isn't cement. bob

I run the out-flow (waste water) from my water filter into a bucket, and then to the drain. I put my home-made frag disks in the bucket - constant water change! bob

The one I think people are trying to say the second picture is are Athecate Hydroids - hydropolyps: This is what I have had in my tanks on a few occasions. While they do tend to spread, mine just all up and disappeared after a while. Keep in mind that hydroids includes stinging jellyfish, and stinging fire coral - all hydroids have stinging cells. So handle with care, even though mine never bothered me. But I still need a better picture to be convinced. Apparently all hydroids go through at least a brief 'jellyfish' stage. So it's possible the hydroid jellyfish you see on the glass are the jellyfish stage of the ones on the rocks. bob

Mine is almost ready to frag! ... well, almost - as in any year now! bob

My current modus operandi is to take a small frag from ANY coral that even so much as HINTS that it might be stressed. With all the moving and dipping i've been doing - I am finding that a lot of corals will give you a 'clue' that they are about to start dying. The AEFW's still haven't killed a coral. Constant dipping and moving to different locations and systems has killed many. bob

Is that your Mystic Sunset frag? I think you're ahead of me!! bob

I'd be afraid to give away my Paly's... they darned near killed Steve Outlaw. Could I be charged with trafficking in deadly animals? bob

It doesn't work worth a darn on those things. They LOOK horrible - and two days later, they are growing again. Sigh.... Don't you wish $50/polyp paly's grew like that?? bob

GENERALLY speaking - they seem to like low-moderate light, and low-moderate flow. Some grow a LOT faster than others. And some are a LOT easier to keep happy and growing. My original, first chalice was from NAGA's tank breakdown 3 years ago. It has had some difficulties at times - once it was 8" in diameter, and I had to cut it in half to stop some STN from one side. One of the frags from that cutting is now about 4" in diameter, and the original is back up to about 8" or so. On the other hand... my Tyree LE Alien Eye watermelon has grown quite slowly. bob

Mine started out by clearing the tank of all the little tubeworms. When he ran out of those, he started on TINY aiptasia. As he grew, within a month or so - he was munching down on any aiptasia he could find. I still find him an aiptasia-covered rock from another tank once in a while for a treat. bob

There is a better way to start a U-tube. Tap a small tube into it, and suck out the AIR... you need a little valve to close it again, is all. bob

My frag is doing nicely! Growing a lot faster than the Tyree Alien eye it's sitting next to! bob

I think if you are doing it without a polarized light source - you need to pop the lenses out and look through both of them. Something like that. Sunlight is fairly well polarized to start with - so you would see the pattern in the car windshield in sunlight. Look for good, concise instructions with pictures. bob

The dehumidifier will add heat to the room. I have a pretty large one - and it adds a LOT of heat. bob

Someone posted another way to figure out if glass is tempered; like holding it up to a laptop screen or something. bob

It's that toll road, man! A dollar a mile sucks! bob

If you were to find Sonny's paperwork, it would probably just say 'Japanese Zoanthids' - shipped from California. Where the importer/trans-shipper got it, and what it was called when they got it ('Fiji zoanthids - to be relabeled as Japanese')... you would have to ask them. bob

My Splendid African Leopard Wrasse was one of the original batch of fish I put in my 240 almost 2.5 years ago. It is still happy and healthy and dives into the sand every night around lights out. What's amazing is how FAR he travels in the sand. I guess I had never noticed before - but the other night he dove in, and I saw the trail of sand moving for 2 feet. bob

My little pond seems to follow the same pattern each year. Clear and clean, then it gets green, then the various water plants start to grow, and about the time I want to throw algae killer in there - it clears up again. Just wish I could find a way to economically keep some pond lettuce from year to year. bob

No - but I do eat chicken. bob

Yes... and I think 'paying the price' to purposely import illegal Japanese corals would probably 'break the bank' for most of our local coral stores and coral addicts. You sure wouldn't then be turning around and selling them for cheap. bob

So... after reading through three pages of posts - it appears in the end that it MAY be legal to export SOME types of corals from Japan, including zoanthids. And the corals we have seen for sale MAY actually be Japanese, or the importer MAY have just added that name to them to make them more marketable. And there would appear to be NO evidence that any LFS either mis-labeled them to purposely mislead people, OR illegally imported anything. I hereby apologize on behalf of anyone who MAY have cast aspersions on any of our local vendors before having all the facts... bob