lanman

I wonder if the M-D reefers have different corals to trade than us WAMAS reefers?? How you fixed for Sunset Montipora up there?? bob

Do I get new labels with little octo-dudes for all of my previous GSA stuff?? Welcome aboard! Arrrrrrr... bob

Yes. Eventually they rust up from the salt water, unless you rinse and dry them after every use. If you don't have bone cutters - how do you cut frags from corals in the tank? If you are using a pair of wire snips or something - try those on the rock. bob

My 240 w/total system volume of about 300 gallons evaporates about 4 gallons/day under T5 lights. 1 gallon from frag system 1, and 2 gallons from frag system 2. In the spring and fall, when neither A/C nor heating are operating very much - I have a lot of problems with humidity; condensation on the cold floor, etc. bob

Are you seeking a way to remove encrusted coral from a rock? You'd be surprised how soft most of our live rock is. Just take your bone cutting pliers, and nibble around it until it's off of there. bob

That's what small frags of my Gadgets acro look like - EXCEPT - they usually have more branching and less encrusting. bob

They mostly ignore one another - what would happen if I found a male and added him? bob

I have 4 VERY large pajama cardinals. Any way to sex them? I keep watching - and nobody ever seems to be carrying babies. Just my luck to have 4 - all the same sex... bob

ROTFLMAO!!!!

Actually - I would suggest an e-mail, seeing as he left his e-mail address. bob

Very nice of you, Jeff. I'm sure someone will step up. How much live rock do you estimate you have in there? Anyone considering should read up on the twin-spot wrasse. Large, aggressive, and will turn your tank upside-down. Pretty fish, though! bob

http://www.thepelicanstore.com/Pelican-1200-Case-1010.aspx?gclid=CN_1wP2986ECFYrF3Aodfj9olA bob

I have a 150W Aqua-medic PENDANT.... sorry. bob

I saw the movie!! bob

'Environmental reasons' in this case is a camera that just won't adjust properly to my 14K lights. bob

Some people's pictures on here are incredibly vivid - the colors bright and saturated, and the images so crisp you can hear them snap! I hear people talking about taking pictures in some mode or another, and then post-processing. I assume 'post-processing' is anything you do to a picture after it is taken, as opposed to making adjustments to white balance, aperture, shutter speed, or lighting during the process of taking it. For the purposes of selling corals - one wants to have an accurate representation of a beautiful coral. In some cases, people or businesses tend to 'over-emphasize' the attributes of their corals. So what is acceptable? Increasing/decreasing contrast? Sharpness? Color saturation? The colors themselves? Or is anything acceptable, as long as it gives a MORE, rather than LESS accurate representation of what you see with the human eye?? For example: This is an original photo of one of my chalices: This is the same image. I used a photo editor that came with a scanner - only minimal adjustments available. For this picture, I reduced brightness (-1), increased contrast (+2), and increased 'sharpness' (+3) - the sharpness change did very little, if anything. I made no changes to the color at all. I find the 2nd picture more accurately represents what the coral looks like under my 14K Phoenix bulbs. Is that 'OKAY' if I use the 2nd photo when I post a frag of it for sale?? Or am I a bad boy and a fraud?? Opinions?? Methods used?? Techniques?? bob

I almost started a thread on this a while back. I think I will start one now. 'What is acceptable post-processing of photos?' Look for it in the photography section! bob

Yet another good reason to stop at a drugstore for needles. Despite the funny looks I'm sure to get. bob

I am 14vdc 360ma - I have 1/2" x 1" of graphite exposed. bob

Looks great!! A couple of those corals look familiar - the purple birdsnest, and the purple-tipped acropora nana. bob

The Calfo overflow on my 240 is about 1.5" below the top of the tank. There is a plastic piece on the front and sides of the tank about the same width, so that the top level of the water is behind the plastic strip (looks full). I have nothing to keep fish from the overflow. When I first started up the tank, it seemed like I found a fish in the overflow or the sump every week, and had to put it back in the tank. They learn after a while - haven't seen one go over in 2 years. bob

Okay... yours puts out at least twice the bubbles that mine does. Any hints, tips?? What might cause less bubbles?? I am using a piece of graphite from a carpenter's pencil as the other electrode. Thanks, bob

And good luck on growing them out. They can be pretty cantankerous. Recently I had one grow from 3 polyps to about 10 polyps - and then without being moved, or any other changes, it started losing polyps. Now it seems to be growing again from about 5 polyps. sigh... bob

I saw a commercial tank this weekend - had a PAIR of fish in it - wrasse-like. Very black, with very white spots all over - and an 'eyespot' towards the tail. One was almost 6" - and the other about 3". I've searched a bit and found a 'black leopard wrasse' - but the picture I found is not AS black, and doesn't have an eye spot. Any hints? I want one! bob

BIG tub?? I'd worry about temperature extremes. But it would make a good experiment. bob