Stephen

doesn't work

CO2 eats up the anion resin.

I have the a apex on my tank and I love it. However we just got a Hydros for my girlfriends discus tank and honestly if I wasn't spoiled by the bells and whistles of the apex I'd be completely happy with the Hydros. When I need to replace the apex it will be hard to decide between the 2.

I used egg crate with my last frag tank but if I ever start another I'll go to these placed on the bottom. I visited a guy once that was using these to grow colonies he was taking frags from. He had them placed on the bottom of a 12" deep tank. Pretty nice set up and from what I remember very clean. 3" Coral Frag Tile

I use a small avast spyglass with 400 ml of bio pellets for my 200 gallon system.

Have you looked at some of the videos on Bulk Reef Supply about installing and tuning RO/DI systems? 30 psi is too low. Membranes are much more efficient at higher psi. I don't think I've ever seen a membrane that suggest less than 50 psi as minimum pressure. The 30 psi you have right now is not enough pressure to force your source water through the membrane efficiently. That's the reason you're getting so much rejection water. Up the pressure, lower the rejection rate. You need a booster pump and if you're still worried about wasting water add a second membrane. Reverse Osmosis Accessories

I do but I have never replaced the media after installing. IMO they make a better skimmer silencer than anything and that's exactly the reason I keep it online.

Another option is API Marine Algaefix. I've used it twice to get rid of Dictyota algae and have had very good success with it. No harm to anything in the tank except it will eventually kill your caulerpa or chaeto after about 10 doses. Make sure you use as directed and do not overdose. Also continue to use it a couple of weeks after you no longer see the algae. Bubble algae usually starts to disappear around the 3rd week and is mostly gone by the 5th in my experience. It's tough and there may be a little left but it's completely manageable then by manual removal. I imagine if you kept going with it you may eventually get every bit. I stop dosing after the Dictyota has been gone for 2 weeks.

BRS recommends the photo layout. I'm using something similar with only one actinic and one coral plus but will be switching to this set up when it's time for new bulbs.

It's been turned into a clam/bubble tip tank. I'll get some photos later.

I have switched over to all sicce pumps and I've been very happy with them.

I've had this female for a couple of years and the male for at least a year. Today they laid their first batch of eggs. I guess I'll have to start raising rotifers for next time.

I've always had luck with lyretails if I got at least 5, preferably 6 small females and let them decide who will turn male. With 3-4 females when one turns male they usually will stress the remaining 2-3 females to death. Remember there's the male and there's also a dominate female. With only 1 or 2 other females the aggression from the male and dominant female has no place to spread out. With a single female the male will eventually stress her to death. I have 6 in my 120 at the moment. Started with 6 small females and eventually one turned male. Also as a side note. Make sure when you purchase them that they have been collected from the same area. If they are from different parts of the world they never seem to accept each other in my experience. The Indian Ocean ones on LiveAquaria that are collected off the coast of Africa/Kenya have proven more hardy for me and are my favorite color pattern.

Stay away from the chaetomax unless you have a very small-small refugium. They are more suitable to use stuck to a chamber on the back of a all in one tank versus use over a open refugium.

Mine goes out into the yard in a place that doesn't grow grass for some reason. I'll also put it in a spray tank and spray it on the driveway to kill grass and weeds when about half of it evaporates.