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The Looking Glass


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Introduction

 

This thread is to document the build of my new 300 gallon Marineland Deep Dimension Reef. The dimensions of the 300 gallon are 72" L x 36" W x and 27" H. The plan is to reuse most of the equipment from my decommissioned 180g system. The theme for this reef will be dedicated to SPS, specifically Torts, smooth skin, deep water Acropora, and a few Millepora. I have not completed the fish list, but waiting in holding tanks are the following from the old system: Sailfin Tang, Powder Blue Tang, Scopas Tang, Blue Throat Trigger, Mandarin, a trio of Bartlett Anthias, and a pair of Banghai Cardinals. On the wishlist are two Angelfish, Blueface and Goldflake.

 

Build New Stand

 

I have always built my tank stands and wanted to continue.

The stand for the 300g will be built with 2x6's and 2x4's. The build plans are commonly available on the Internet. I can share the actual plans per request.

 

Below is the lumber collected from Lowes. I spent two hours in Lowes cherry picking through the lumber section. I will add that Lowes lumber appears to be better grade than Home Depot. I could be wrong.

 

The stand will be 35" tall, so I had to build it near its final resting position.

StandLumber.jpg

 

Building the bottom frame with 2x4s.

Standbuild1.jpg

 

Bottom frame completed, next top frame.

Standbuild2.jpg

 

Top frame built with 2x6. I chose 2x6 because I want to have an 50" opening in front.

Standbuild3.jpg

 

Add legs. Each corner has three 2x4s supporting the structure.

Standbuild.jpg

 

Close up of corner showing three 2x4s.

Standbuild4.jpg

 

Different angle.

Standbuild5.jpg

 

Standbuild6.jpg

 

The bones are near complete.

Stnadbuild8.jpg

 

Standbuild9.jpg

 

Standbuild10.jpg

 

Standbuild11.jpg

 

Standbuild12.jpg

 

Standbuild14.jpg

 

Standbuild15.jpg

 

Three coats of Kilz primer to protect the wood.

 

Standbuild16.jpg

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Supplies and Reinforcements have arrived...

 

I ordered 600g of Instant Ocean, 160 pounds of CaribSea Dry Aragonite Special Grade Reef Sand to establish an 1" sandbed, 80 pounds of BRS Ecorocks, Marco Mortar, SeaKlear Phosphate Remover, and miscellaneous plumbing parts.

20121026_160214.jpg

 

80 pounds of BRS Ecorocks. I was happy with the rock, no dead organic matter attached and very clean.

 

BRSEcorock80lbs.jpg

 

Updated my rider to the home insurance policy and enhanced my contingency plan with this...

Generator.jpg

 

Out with old...

180gstand.jpg

 

constructionsite1.jpg

 

1.5" Gate Valve to control the Herbie Overflow

Gatevalve2.jpg

 

New versus Old

constructionsite2.jpg

 

constructionsite3.jpg

 

constructionsite4.jpg

 

Back of new stand

 

backofstand.jpg

 

180g tank is gone. I shed a few tears as it was exiting my home, it served me well.

 

old180gstand.jpg

 

Moved the new stand in place. New tiles were added to fill in the space left by the old stand.

newstandmoved.jpg

 

Dismantled the old stand.

oldstanddissembled.jpg

oldstanddissembled2.jpg

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The gentlemen from Aquarium One delivered the tank.

arrival1.jpg

 

I moved the refrigerator in order to get the tank down the steps.

arrival4.jpg

 

There were three people on the steps walking the tank down. Easy, easy, easy.

arrival4b.jpg

 

Bottom of the steps without incident.

arrival5.jpg

 

Tank in place.

arrival7.jpg

 

Let the leveling begin. Not sure why, but it took me four hours to level the tank. In the end, the tank is 1/16 off on the long axis and dead center on the short axis. Front and sides required shims. By the way, I used composite shims. I will cut them off after a couple months.

arrival9.jpg

 

Outdoor carpet used to protect the bottom of the stand. 6x8 remnant at Home Depot $12.

carpetinstand.jpg

carpetinstand2.jpg

 

 

Next up, Plumbing...

Edited by ridetheducati
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Plumbing is very simple and straightforward. I am using the Herbie method for my overflows, which means I am using all four bulk heads as drains. Each overflow will run a full siphon and an emergency drain. All plumbing is 1.5" before and after the bulkhead. The 1.5" gate valve is used to fine tune the overflow. This method is extremely quiet. The lack of air in the plumbing keeps the system quiet. Eheim 1262(900gph)will be powering the single return over the top of the tank. The sump is a 40 breeder.

 

plumbing1.jpg

plumbing2.jpg

plumbing3.jpg

plumbing5.jpg

Edited by ridetheducati
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OH looking very nice, some quick progress you got going on here man.....

Plumbing is looking nice, suprised a 1262 will turn over enough but the more i think it will probably be just about perfect.

 

What are you dong for flow in the tank?

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Herbie overflow. In this picture, the 1" pipe is the emergency drain and the other 1.5" pipe is the full siphon. I was going to upgrade the 1" pipe to 1.5", but after testing, the 1" performed well. The water level in the overflow will run approximately 3-4" above the full siphon drain. The blue tape on the tank are guides to assist with aquascaping.

 

herbie1.jpg

herbie2.jpg

 

System was ran for 48 hours to determine leaks in plumbing and ensure the tank remained level.

preparingforaquascaping.jpg

plumbingwatertest.jpg

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I am also surprised that such a small return pump would work for such a large tank.

 

And why just a 40g breeder for the sump? Why not a bigger sump, like a 75g or a 125g?

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OH looking very nice, some quick progress you got going on here man.....

Plumbing is looking nice, suprised a 1262 will turn over enough but the more i think it will probably be just about perfect.

 

What are you dong for flow in the tank?

 

Generally, I strive to turn over the tank three times. In this case, 900gph is where I need to be. Currently, the Eheim is pumping around 700gph. Down the road, I may change out the 1262 for a Water Blaster. The skimmer performance will ultimately determine if I need to ramp up the return pump.

 

I currently have two Tunze 6100's and I ordered two Tunze 6095's, I was waiting for Premium Aquatics to start their holiday sale. Approximately 11,000gph for in-tank circulation.

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I am also surprised that such a small return pump would work for such a large tank.

 

And why just a 40g breeder for the sump? Why not a bigger sump, like a 75g or a 125g?

 

For my system, the skimmer pump and other factors determines what return pump to use. I think the PSK2400 does about 600gph, so I try to stay in that area, while maintaining three times the turnover.

 

The 40g breeder holds all my equipment, skimmer, heaters, and powerheads that feed calcium reactor and activated carbon reactor. Also, it holds the water when the power is cut. I see no need for anything larger, but you will notice I have the flexibility to go large if needed. Many WAMAS members have physically seen my old system and can attest that I keep things very simple.

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All systems are green, except I have not hung the Metal Halides yet.

 

Time to fill the tank with RODI water.

RODIfill4.jpg

 

Purchased a connector from Home Depot to extend the line to the tank.

RODIfill3.jpg

 

25 feet extension. Also, there are three 20 gallon Brute trash cans holding approximately 210lbs of well seasoned live rock.

RODIfill2.jpg

 

I dont recall if the RODI membrane is rated at 75gph or 100gph.

RODIfill1.jpg

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Simple is better, I like that. My only concern (and it may not be a concern at all, I'm just thinking out loud) is that with the small sump volume, and small return pump --- could such a small volume of water (30g/10% of the DT) with a low turnover rate, keep accurate and consistent heating throughout the entire 300g DT above? Does that make sense?

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Generally, I strive to turn over the tank three times. In this case, 900gph is where I need to be. Currently, the Eheim is pumping around 700gph. Down the road, I may change out the 1262 for a Water Blaster. The skimmer performance will ultimately determine if I need to ramp up the return pump.

 

I currently have two Tunze 6100's and I ordered two Tunze 6095's, I was waiting for Premium Aquatics to start their holiday sale. Approximately 11,000gph for in-tank circulation.

 

although i can't see the pics at this time, have you checked your gate valves to see how far you had to close them to achieve full siphon? I am currently running a 1262 with a 1.5" herbie and my gate valve is closed almost 90% of the way. I just upgraded to a reeflo blowhole that I am going to hook up this weekend. It just made me nervous with the gate valve almost completely closed.

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Simple is better, I like that. My only concern (and it may not be a concern at all, I'm just thinking out loud) is that with the small sump volume, and small return pump --- could such a small volume of water (30g/10% of the DT) with a low turnover rate, keep accurate and consistent heating throughout the entire 300g DT above? Does that make sense?

 

There will be ~270g of water in the system and I have 900 watts of heat. As I mentioned above, additional factors exist that will determine whether I need to upgrade the return, it is something that I will monitor.

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