YHSublime March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 So I picked up an awesome pack not to long ago, concerned that I'm slowly killing it. Was doing fine, but I had a large temp flux over night (80 down to 69-70). I don't think its too far gone, but I would certainly appreciate some help as to keep things alive. All others are doing fine. Some pics to help: I'm testing my water again right now, but before anybody asks, the last time I tested, everything was great. Ammonia 0 Nitrate- .05 PH 8 Phosophate 0 KH 10 Calcium: 500 The salinity is 1.025 Temp: 79F (working back up) Will post new result as I test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trockafella March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 IMO I think your tank is to new and going through its cycle and SPS is pretty sensitive. Sorry to say, but youre probably gonna lose those.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 9, 2013 Author Share March 9, 2013 IMO I think your tank is to new and going through its cycle and SPS is pretty sensitive. Sorry to say, but youre probably gonna lose those.. I have trouble digesting that, if you're talking about an initial cycle, then I don't understand my test results being consistent after a spike in ammonia and nitrates. I however did notice my salinty was at 1.026, added some RO/DI, preparting for a water change in a min, after it all mixes up and hopefully drops the salinity down to 1.025 There is a peice of SPS in there that is doing well, in the center of the tank, closer to the lights, a lot of flow... no problems. I still have my biocube running, with great water parameters and cycled for the past 6 months now. Think I should throw them in there, take of the hood, and throw some LEDs on? Ammonia 0 Nitrate- .05 PH 7.8- 8 Phosophate 0 KH 12 Calcium: 520 The salinity is 1.026 Temp: 79F (working back up) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 Lost color underneath is common when the coral is not getting enough flow or indirect light on that area. What type of lighting do you have? The large colony looks good from the top. Gluing the coral onto plugs can cause some tissue at the base to die off. Also, handling them causes stress and more issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 9, 2013 Author Share March 9, 2013 lighting is probably the issue, from the bottom. I have a 250 MH I don't want to handle them too much, but I think moving the location might be the right choice atm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 Check them good for acro red bugs too. I didn't see any in your pictures but they can cause the coral to lose color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 9, 2013 Author Share March 9, 2013 I took a look, didn't see anything, maybe with a magnifine glass. I'll go pick one up. They are nice peices, I would very much like to keep them alive. That being said, I have some SPS peices that appear to be doing fine on the other side of the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 Since the coral is new it might just need some time to adjust to your tank conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 9, 2013 Author Share March 9, 2013 I think my plan of action is going to be putting it in a even higher lit area of light, and then sit back and wait. Aside from the salinty, and the temp swing, my water chemistry appears to be pretty stable. I did remove about an inch of crushed coral from my sump, and add a skimmer last night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy G March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 What's your Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surf&turf March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 Your Calcium and KH is also a little high. Not sure what you dose, but try to keep the Cal around 400-450 and your KH 8-10. With your No3 and Po4 being low, can cause issues with your KH being over 9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy G March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 Sorry should have read up lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 9, 2013 Author Share March 9, 2013 No dosing, I just use instant ocean reef crystals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 9, 2013 Author Share March 9, 2013 Your Calcium and KH is also a little high. Not sure what you dose, but try to keep the Cal around 400-450 and your KH 8-10. With your No3 and Po4 being low, can cause issues with your KH being over 9. What is a good plan of action to bring it down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy G March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 (edited) With your lights I dont think that would be the problem it looked like it should be ok. Flow could be some but I noticed you moved the smaller power head to blow almost directly on it so not 100% sure it is a flow issue. What I will say is your light cycle could impact it some plus im sure its still adjusting. I basically have full lighting on my tank for about 4 hours and I think you had it on for way over that. Im sure some other member will chime in but I would get your lighting on a timer so its consistant and the coral and tank can adjust. I would not do your MH light for more than maybe 6 hours and maybe even less. Anyone else have a good recommendation for light cycle? I have never used MH. 1 other thing to think about is how often he is changing water. When he did not have a skimmer he was changing water every few days to keep water chemistry in line. I think getting his tank on a rhythm should help with a good maintenance schedule and a lighting schedule. Dont change a ton let things settle and get what you have running correctly. Edited March 9, 2013 by Tracy G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surf&turf March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 Might want to try just regular IO till your corals start growing and needing the extra Cal and Alk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 the big colony looks like it was eaten by flatworms... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camelcruiser March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 +1 if your corals are not using the extra calcium and alk from the reef crystals your parameters probably fluctuate after water changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveS March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 The bigger brown one may not be getting enough light. I keep my 400w mh on for 8 hours a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM March 9, 2013 Share March 9, 2013 After what Rob said, In pic three are we looking at a nest of flatworm eggs at the base of the big colony above the frag plug? Also, are the little red spots in the last picture redbugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 10, 2013 Author Share March 10, 2013 Not sure what to look for. I bought some revive tonight. Would that be a way to go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incredible Corals March 10, 2013 Share March 10, 2013 Not sure what to look for. I bought some revive tonight. Would that be a way to go? Did a quick good search on red bugs and aefw. There will be a bunch of pics and give you an idea of what to look for. The top two look a little chewed up to me but it's hard to say without a close inspection in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime March 10, 2013 Author Share March 10, 2013 the big colony looks like it was eaten by flatworms... After what Rob said, In pic three are we looking at a nest of flatworm eggs at the base of the big colony above the frag plug? Also, are the little red spots in the last picture redbugs? Did some searches to see what to look for. Lights are off, but will be waking up early, and preparing a revive dip. I also picked up a magnifine glass to take close inspection. Either way, I think I will do a dip before putting them back in the tank. Honestly, I have not been in the habit of dipping my corals, and it may have caught up to me. I'd really like to keep these SPS peices alive. If it's flatworm, I think my choices are a limited, chemical, or natural with a flatworm eating fish. I read some posts, I think a mostly written by Rob, about ranking the order of 1-5? Either way, guess a bright and early start in the AM will bring me closer to knowing what I need to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k March 10, 2013 Share March 10, 2013 flatworms that eat coral are different than acoel or red planaria. there are very few AEFW predators that are effective in a home tank. Once you get AEFW, it's very very difficult to rid them from the tank. If you buy SPS from some of the people here, you will get AEFW because they have had them in the past and thought they got rid of them but they didn't. If anyone posts that they have AEFW, you should be real hesitant about buying acroporas or other SPS from them if you don't want the possibility of an AEFW outbreak. If you really want to go down the SPS path and you want a nice SPS tank, you need to start a real coral QT process. When you get a frag, you remove any hard bases that it came with including frag plugs. You check the coral visibly with a magnifier if necessary for any sort of critters. You dip the coral in Revive or the Bayer dip. You then put the coral into the coral QT tank for observation for X amount of days. If inspection reveals no cooties after X time period, you put it into your DT. No exceptions for anyone- even some of the best SPS guys here will tell you the same with their corals. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incredible Corals March 10, 2013 Share March 10, 2013 flatworms that eat coral are different than acoel or red planaria. there are very few AEFW predators that are effective in a home tank. Once you get AEFW, it's very very difficult to rid them from the tank. If you buy SPS from some of the people here, you will get AEFW because they have had them in the past and thought they got rid of them but they didn't. If anyone posts that they have AEFW, you should be real hesitant about buying acroporas or other SPS from them if you don't want the possibility of an AEFW outbreak. If you really want to go down the SPS path and you want a nice SPS tank, you need to start a real coral QT process. When you get a frag, you remove any hard bases that it came with including frag plugs. You check the coral visibly with a magnifier if necessary for any sort of critters. You dip the coral in Revive or the Bayer dip. You then put the coral into the coral QT tank for observation for X amount of days. If inspection reveals no cooties after X time period, you put it into your DT. No exceptions for anyone- even some of the best SPS guys here will tell you the same with their corals. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. This should be a sticky. Very well said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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