DaveS March 5, 2013 Author March 5, 2013 Sorry, I know you're working on some options for us but also mentioned other DIY options. I was hoping to read about some of those DIY options so I had an idea of what to do if *I* had to do it my myself. Could you point me to one of those posts where people showed their DIY solutions to connect the D120 to an Apex? thanks!
Matt LeBaron March 5, 2013 March 5, 2013 I asked about specs on the D120's earlier but we unfortunately do not have them to know what may need to be done to DIY them into being controllable. ReefBreeders has hinted that they might be able to modify one for you to be controllable but honestly even if they are able to do it relatively cheaply, ($60-$80) the price then starts to get to the point where there are other options that might be better.
monkiboy March 5, 2013 March 5, 2013 Sorry, I know you're working on some options for us but also mentioned other DIY options. I was hoping to read about some of those DIY options so I had an idea of what to do if *I* had to do it my myself. Could you point me to one of those posts where people showed their DIY solutions to connect the D120 to an Apex? there haven't been any threads i've come across that have done this. in the present state of things, you would be building your own light essentially as the components were not designed to work in this way. so to build a controllable DIY LED fixture there are a plethora of options. to get these d120s to do this affordably in DIY fashion as one would expect, requires some more work on my part in negotiating with manufacturers and their engineers. if you find or have other information you come across, please share it.
howaboutme April 16, 2013 April 16, 2013 Good idea to revive this thread for any w/ questions, comments, suggestions? Better to ask her than muck up the main GB thread.
basser9 April 16, 2013 April 16, 2013 (edited) There are a ton of sites and a ton of optics dirt cheap in the 20 to 40 degree for chinese emmitters. SATRONICS has them dirt cheap as do a thousand sites on ebay plus they all carry any leds you might need. I like the ones with 2 little legs on them they fit great. http://www.ebay.com/...=item1c2303dee0 heres the type you want it has the 2 legs on them the link is a us seller of chinese optics. satisled site is down for cheap ones check ebay. Edited April 16, 2013 by basser9
linkfalcon April 17, 2013 April 17, 2013 So here we go I wanna order three d120 or 2 it2060 of my tank the tank is a 110 tall 60 long 18 wide and 26 deep what optics do u think I should do and what LEDs do u think I should get in the setup
howaboutme April 17, 2013 April 17, 2013 So here we go I wanna order three d120 or 2 it2060 of my tank the tank is a 110 tall 60 long 18 wide and 26 deep what optics do u think I should do and what LEDs do u think I should get in the setup See a few posts down on this page regarding what fixtures and how many to use. http://www.reefcentr...2256795&page=16 There's a formula someone came up w/ based on known factors. It's helpful.
matt April 26, 2013 April 26, 2013 This feels like a repeat question, but I want to confirm as it seems like the info could change based on when you order fron Evergrow... At present are the D120 diodes being used representative of a 90 degree or 120 degree optics....when no optics are installed??? In other words, if I want to order a unit and have the optics be helpful (in a planned setup, or later down the road in another setup), should I order 90 or 120 optics so that the optics are NOT redundant with the diodes' spread without optics? Also, what are the best threads for picking between the D120 color layouts? There are several search hits that come up on multiple boards...what are the ones that make the most sense to read at this point. I'd like to experiment with the 14-20k looks and I expect I would be running the unit on 5.5 pico (for now) turned way way way down - I imagine my color flexibility is more limited if I can't turn one channel up a whole lot. Advice for that applicatoin is also welcome...but the GB price is comparable to a par38 bulb so why not do a d120 that I can re-use for a wider range of applications.
howaboutme April 26, 2013 April 26, 2013 This feels like a repeat question, but I want to confirm as it seems like the info could change based on when you order fron Evergrow... At present are the D120 diodes being used representative of a 90 degree or 120 degree optics....when no optics are installed??? In other words, if I want to order a unit and have the optics be helpful (in a planned setup, or later down the road in another setup), should I order 90 or 120 optics so that the optics are NOT redundant with the diodes' spread without optics? Also, what are the best threads for picking between the D120 color layouts? There are several search hits that come up on multiple boards...what are the ones that make the most sense to read at this point. I'd like to experiment with the 14-20k looks and I expect I would be running the unit on 5.5 pico (for now) turned way way way down - I imagine my color flexibility is more limited if I can't turn one channel up a whole lot. Advice for that applicatoin is also welcome...but the GB price is comparable to a par38 bulb so why not do a d120 that I can re-use for a wider range of applications. Without added optics, it's 120deg. So if you choose the free optics option don't get the 120s as you'll be wasting your free. I think someone previous did that so I hope he reads this and changes his order. I can send you my proposed layout and try to explain the rationale in a pm. Though I am still toying with it. Give me some time to get in front of my desktop. Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
matt April 26, 2013 April 26, 2013 Without added optics, it's 120deg. So if you choose the free optics option don't get the 120s as you'll be wasting your free. I think someone previous did that so I hope he reads this and changes his order. I can send you my proposed layout and try to explain the rationale in a pm. Though I am still toying with it. Give me some time to get in front of my desktop. Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2 That'd be great, thanks!
monkiboy April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 Without added optics, it's 120deg. So if you choose the free optics option don't get the 120s as you'll be wasting your free. the LED themselves are 90° and in regards to the light spread: without optics lens > 120° optics lens > 90° optics lens
howaboutme April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 the LED themselves are 90° and in regards to the light spread: without optics lens > 120° optics lens > 90° optics lens Not sure I understand. Are you saying it's somewhere in between 120 and 90? From Logan on a recent RC thread, "You can simply remove the optics to get 120 degrees of spread."
Der ABT April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 (edited) technically the led has a built in 90deg optic....truthfully it spreads more than that....so a bare led no optic is about 130ish lets say, then you can focus teh light with a 120>90>60 going from spread out to spotlight. least thats my understanding Edited April 29, 2013 by Der ABT
monkiboy April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 Not sure I understand. Are you saying it's somewhere in between 120 and 90? From Logan on a recent RC thread, "You can simply remove the optics to get 120 degrees of spread." so light spread without optic lenses is greater than with 120° optics which is greater than with 90° optics. you are not "wasting" your optics if using any optics, including 120°.
howaboutme April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 I think I got it. So Logan's statement is really TOO general. It really should read something like, "......to get at least 120 deg optics"?? Is ~10 degs a big deal unless you have a deep tank?
monkiboy April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 i dont think it's a big deal at all. folks are making things very complicated. there's a lot of ways to get lighting with these fixtures right. if you're completely lost just go/start with the reefbreeders layout and get some extra LED and optics to swap out. at the end of the day it's incredibly easy to make the changes, if necessary, and you have two potentiometers which will let you shift that final output spectrum from 10000k to 20000k+ all day long.
matt April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 I think my take away is that a whole extra set of optics in a another degree option is just $10 per D120
howaboutme April 29, 2013 April 29, 2013 i dont think it's a big deal at all. folks are making things very complicated. there's a lot of ways to get lighting with these fixtures right. if you're completely lost just go/start with the reefbreeders layout and get some extra LED and optics to swap out. at the end of the day it's incredibly easy to make the changes, if necessary, and you have two potentiometers which will let you shift that final output spectrum from 10000k to 20000k+ all day long. I agree w/ you. In any case, it's good to know the answer in specifics. Thanks, Marco.
YHSublime May 1, 2013 May 1, 2013 OK. I have a 57 Deep Blue 36"x18"x20". I have ordered the IT2080, and really just want to do white, blue, and moonlights. I keep LPS, a few SPS pieces, RBTA's, and a 5" clam. Right now I have a 250 metal halide. For the whites I was going to use 10,000K and for the blues I was going to use 480nm. I was planning on using 60 degree optics. Does all that sound reasonable?
Der ABT May 1, 2013 May 1, 2013 id stick with the RB (450) for the blues i went with a mix on mine and have been very happy, i went too blue at first and changed some leds out and man i really like the look now, My white channel is perfect and almost identical to my 250w radium 20k on a galaxy ballast....not too blue not too yellow, most people that see my tank dont think its a radium because they hear all the blue horror stories (mainly people running the wrong ballast if you ask me) id go for some more variations for the whites, throw a couple red and violets...im not a fan of green personally, but you have the opportunity to add some spectrum..why not, you can always order some spare leds and change it around as you want. but the d120 i have over my daughters is actually getting sps to color similar to my MH.....granted the water is finally stable and dong well but im impressed cause im used to the washed out colors from leds. granted its up to you, lemme know if you wanna come see my light (actually have one in arlington or falls church)
howaboutme May 1, 2013 May 1, 2013 OK. I have a 57 Deep Blue 36"x18"x20". I have ordered the IT2080, and really just want to do white, blue, and moonlights. I keep LPS, a few SPS pieces, RBTA's, and a 5" clam. Right now I have a 250 metal halide. For the whites I was going to use 10,000K and for the blues I was going to use 480nm. I was planning on using 60 degree optics. Does all that sound reasonable? Also check out this thread if you havn't already http://wamas.org/forums/topic/57188-evergrow-color-coming-out-pink/
YHSublime May 1, 2013 May 1, 2013 I swear I'm not special needs, but I can't find the reef builders layouts on the website. Would somebody link it for me? I can't find anything on reefbuilder lights at reefbuilders.com Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
monkiboy May 1, 2013 May 1, 2013 I swear I'm not special needs, but I can't find the reef builders layouts on the website. Would somebody link it for me? I can't find anything on reefbuilder lights at reefbuilders.com it's reefbreeders.com not reefbuilders.com then click "here" where it says "click here to download our layout" under the description of the light you are interested in.
YHSublime May 1, 2013 May 1, 2013 it's reefbreeders.com not reefbuilders.com then click "here" where it says "click here to download our layout" under the description of the light you are interested in. There is the problem >_>. Thanks, sir! Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
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