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Ryan's 150g Marineland Deep Dimension!


Ryan S

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is that enough for that large system? I had 2 of those over my 120 before... eh not my tank so rock on bro!

Gosh, I sure hope so. I'm tired of working on the tank.

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Gosh, I sure hope so. I'm tired of working on the tank.

 

 

Yeah making up your mind will help with that a lot! :tongue:

 

You do realize that you've gotten off very easy after all of you trash talking about LEDs, don't you?

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Yeah making up your mind will help with that a lot! :tongue:

 

You do realize that you've gotten off very easy after all of you trash talking about LEDs, don't you?

 

Yea, but the MH bulb was made by a company who is related somehow to Eco-Tech, which makes it ok.

 

or at least thats what Ryan tells himself at night when he is holding his teddy bear oh so tight.

Edited by epleeds
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Yea, but the MH bulb was made by a company who is related somehow to Eco-Tech, which makes it ok.

 

or at least thats what Ryan tells himself at night when he is holding his teddy bear oh so tight.

 

 

icon_lol2.gif

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9 months from now, if my tank sucks while under the MH --- you can believe my return to LED argument will be very, very good.

 

ok well... my switch to T5s for 9 months first... THEN if those fail too, my return to LEDs.

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Serious Question.

 

The 21"x21" hole will go where the red square is in this photo:

gallery_2631706_3_26203.jpg

The canopy is built with boards down the 2 sides; 3 across the top as you can see above; and then there is the lifting door in the front. There are 2 1" boards under the top of the canopy, that go across, I assume for extra support holding the canopy together.

 

I can think of 2 options to create my hole.

 

1. Remove the 3 boards on top of the canopy (and the plastic mesh you see of course). Replace that square with a solid 3/4" piece of plywood, that's 30"x38.5" (the exact dimensions). I would cut the 21"x21" square directly in the center of this board. I would screw it into the sides so it should be strong enough to hold the entire canopy together. I would attach the hinges to the new plywood for the front door, even though I wouldn't be able to lift it w/ the reflector on top.

 

2. Use a jigsaw and make the 21" square directly into the boards already attached to the canopy.

 

I think option 1 would be better?

Edited by Ryan S
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How much will the MH fixture weigh?

 

I might consider adding a little structural bracing around your new hole on the inside of the canopy to reinforce it a bit.

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9 months from now, if my tank sucks while under the MH --- you can believe my return to LED argument will be very, very good.

 

ok well... my switch to T5s for 9 months first... THEN if those fail too, my return to LEDs.

You CAN'T go back in 9 months, Ryan. You have 5 brand new MH lamps coming your way. That's at least a 2-1/2 year supply of lamps!

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How much will the MH fixture weigh?

 

I might consider adding a little structural bracing around your new hole on the inside of the canopy to reinforce it a bit.

It's pretty light. I am going to hang the reflector as shown in post #1047?

 

You CAN'T go back in 9 months, Ryan. You have 5 brand new MH lamps coming your way. That's at least a 2-1/2 year supply of lamps!

I can always sell them. :P If I switch in 9 months, it will be to T5s before going back to LEDs anyway. :)

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Can you actually remove all three boards, Ryan? What is the front door hinged to? It looks like it's hinged to the first board.

 

Any chance that you can just pull the canopy (or some of those boards) and hang the reflector from the ceiling or make a bent-conduit type of hanger to suspend the fixture over the tank instead of taking a saw to your canopy? I mean, really. What if you don't like the results of cutting a hole there. Are you going to go back and have the canopy rebuilt?

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Can you actually remove all three boards, Ryan? What is the front door hinged to? It looks like it's hinged to the first board.

 

Any chance that you can just pull the canopy (or some of those boards) and hang the reflector from the ceiling or make a bent-conduit type of hanger to suspend the fixture over the tank instead of taking a saw to your canopy? I mean, really. What if you don't like the results of cutting a hole there. Are you going to go back and have the canopy rebuilt?

 

I will remove the back 2 boards, then I will unhinge that front door, remove it, then the third board; install the 3/4" plywood, then rehinge the door. I can't hang anything from the ceiling. The bent conduit was an idea, but this seemed much easier. If I go with this method, and don't like it, I can put the original boards back and make the stock canopy like it was originally. I don't see why this wouldn't work though. That's why I am trying to get feedback before I do it. And yes, worst case scenario, I will pay someone to build a new canopy that matches the stand and that I can hang the reflector inside of. No biggy. Just want to try modifying this one first and saving a couple hundred bucks.

Edited by Ryan S
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I will remove the back 2 boards, then I will unhinge that front door, remove it, then the third board; install the 3/4" plywood, then rehinge the door. I can't hang anything from the ceiling. The bent conduit was an idea, but this seemed much easier. If I go with this method, and don't like it, I can put the original boards back and make the stock canopy like it was originally. I don't see why this wouldn't work though. That's why I am trying to get feedback before I do it. And yes, worst case scenario, I will pay someone to build a new canopy that matches the stand and that I can hang the reflector inside of. No biggy. Just want to try modifying this one first and saving a couple hundred bucks.

 

I don't see why that wouldn't work. You could also take a large hole saw to the back of the canopy and add two computer fans to help with the heat.

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That sounds fine, Ryan. I don't know how large that back space is that you have to work with, but (as Chad said), you may have to brace the underside of the piece with the large hole in it if there isn't sufficient material (at the front end) to keep it from bowing. If you add a few stand offs on the top side to elevate the reflector a little, it may give you some convective airflow to help keep the heat transfer down.

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Or you could just buy a hanging arm kit (different brands out there) and get it hung. You can always add either a floating canopy or sit a canopy on the tank with an open top. Seems like youre making more work than needed, or harder than it needs to be.. But I guess you wouldnt have it any other way.

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It's pretty light. I am going to hang the reflector as shown in post #1047?

 

 

I can always sell them. :P If I switch in 9 months, it will be to T5s before going back to LEDs anyway. :)

 

 

 

I hope you aren't like this when your fiance/wife is pregnant. There's no selling/trading the baby for something else after 9 months...

 

With the money you got from selling the radions, you have more money to build that awesome pc now...

 

Sorry had to jump on the bandwagon. Just giving you a hard time clap.gif

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Or you could just buy a hanging arm kit (different brands out there) and get it hung. You can always add either a floating canopy or sit a canopy on the tank with an open top. Seems like youre making more work than needed, or harder than it needs to be.. But I guess you wouldnt have it any other way.

+1. Just cut the entire top off that way you can raise or lower the light from a hanging kit in the ceiling.

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+1. Just cut the entire top off that way you can raise or lower the light from a hanging kit in the ceiling.

Wish I could. But again, I live in an apartment complex, and drilling the ceiling isn't an option.

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Ryan, what's the ceiling made of? Is it really "not an option" if it's totally repairable? A hole in drywall is *easily* repaired. If not, some other suspended option really will give you the most flexibility and maintainability for the configuration you're talking about.

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