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Running out of room- time to upgrade


zygote2k

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My little 60 cube is stuffed with corals! I need more room for collecting LPS.-gallery_2631654_582_631134.jpg

When the opportunity presented itself to trade tank set-ups with Steve Outlaw, I couldn't resist. This half cube will give me plenty of room to allow the LPS to fully expand.

This tank has many nice features like a false back wall overflow and a euro-braced top. The stand offers plenty of room for plumbing too. However, there are some major flaws in the overall build quality of this tank. I'm not sure if it was the combination of the original owner (not Steve) and the builder or both. The euro-brace is made up of 4 separate pieces and are arranged in a strange order. Some of the pieces are tight fitting, while some are very loose and filled with silicone.

The stand is box stock steel welded together. The stand measures 36x36x35 high. Unfortunately it has been welded together with a pronounced 1/2" wobble across the diagonals. The only way to fix this issue is to install threaded adjustable casters which will take considerable time and money to construct or to simply put the stand on the side. I chose to put it on it's side and it's only 1/8" out of level this way and all of the frame surfaces rest squarely on the floor. The drawback is that the back side of the tank and sump hang over 1".gallery_2631654_582_42942.jpggallery_2631654_582_717434.jpggallery_2631654_582_709422.jpggallery_2631654_582_777663.jpggallery_2631654_582_178639.jpg

The sump is unusual too- it looks like a standard issue sump except there is no pump chamber or weir to eliminate micro bubbles. There is a strange box built into the back chamber to hold what I'm guessing are to be the drain lines. They aren't a standard size for a bulkhead, but simply 1" holes drilled into the box. There's no way to access the bottom side of the box either.

Even with all these issues, I'm able to make it work for my purposes easily. I installed a 1.5" drain and a 1" return. Since there isn't a pump wall, I made one- a sweater box will hold the DSB and allow the pump free access to undisturbed water.

This is what it looks like so far-

gallery_2631654_582_347227.jpggallery_2631654_582_157846.jpggallery_2631654_582_602604.jpg

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I thought about someone making mods to the stand, but it's 36" wide and doesn't fit through the door. I had to haul it up 35' with a rope and bring it through the balcony. It was difficult to say the least for 2 of us. If someone can weld on some adjusters for me in the dining room without burning the hardwood floor, then I'm all for it and will pay in $$$.

Anyone?

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couldnt you just drill it and use a screw adjuster.(aka drill it and put a nut on the floor side that allows you to adjust the height kinda like a fridge. if done right it would distribute the weight evenly and be easy to adjust if you ever move it.

 

otherwise i can ask my mechanic, once race season is over in a month or two he may actually have time to do it.

 

looks freaking sweet otherwise, wish i had some lps to give ya

Edited by Der ABT
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The tank is builder rushing to get the job done whether done right or not.

You made the only right choice because sticking anything under one corner might stop it from rocking but it

will leave a impression on the floor once filled.

I would put a solid piece of 3/4 ply under at least the tank, better under both.

Drill a large hole for your plumbing or cut out with a jig saw.

LMK if you want to do it one evening this week.

 

burnout video is coming. :)

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Nice pickup.

 

The construction is a little odd.

 

Well, slightly odd tank for slightly odd... hmmm.

 

haha, you should use your old tank as a refugium.

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The tank is builder rushing to get the job done whether done right or not.

You made the only right choice because sticking anything under one corner might stop it from rocking but it

will leave a impression on the floor once filled.

I would put a solid piece of 3/4 ply under at least the tank, better under both.

Drill a large hole for your plumbing or cut out with a jig saw.

LMK if you want to do it one evening this week.

 

burnout video is coming. :)

I thought about the sheet of plywood, but I chose to use 1x2 red oak in 4 strips under the tank and 2 strips under the sump. I think that the flex/distortion of the bottom acrylic pane will pin everything to the stand. I plan on skinning the stand with some sort of material to house everything and keep the light contained in the fuge area. I'm now collecting water for the transfer. I'm hoping it will occur on Wed night- you're more than welcome to stop by and watch, drink beer/scotch, and fart if you need to.

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I thought about the sheet of plywood, but I chose to use 1x2 red oak in 4 strips under the tank and 2 strips under the sump. I think that the flex/distortion of the bottom acrylic pane will pin everything to the stand. I plan on skinning the stand with some sort of material to house everything and keep the light contained in the fuge area. I'm now collecting water for the transfer. I'm hoping it will occur on Wed night- you're more than welcome to stop by and watch, drink beer/scotch, and fart if you need to.

 

Wish you lived closer. Sounds like fun.

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I'm just thinking from a flexing stand point. especially if the sides are thicker than the base piece.

 

Wish you lived closer. Sounds like fun.

You've never smelled his farts.

 

eye watering comes to mind

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Rob - did you ever think about using magnets to secure the skin to the stand? You could countersink them into whatever material you decide to use. That would make access underneath very convenient.

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What is the purpose of the drain split in two? Also, what is that in the 3rd and 4th pic? Is that the euro brace? Is it acrylic? Silicone won't hold acrylic. If you need the brace for the thickness of material used, you may want to put a new piece over those gaps with a solvent.

Edited by hypertech
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Rob - did you ever think about using magnets to secure the skin to the stand? You could countersink them into whatever material you decide to use. That would make access underneath very convenient.

 

 

Thats what Steven did with his stand, and Im doing with mine. Makes it very easy to do any work in the sump, simply pop off whatever side you want and go to work.

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Rob - did you ever think about using magnets to secure the skin to the stand? You could countersink them into whatever material you decide to use. That would make access underneath very convenient.

After seeing the way that Darren did his doors, I'll probably go that route.

Stainless Steel and Velcro.

 

 

What is the purpose of the drain split in two? Also, what is that in the 3rd and 4th pic? Is that the euro brace? Is it acrylic? Silicone won't hold acrylic. If you need the brace for the thickness of material used, you may want to put a new piece over those gaps with a solvent.

 

The purpose of the drain split in two is this:

The sump has a weird design and uses a box inlet drilled for 2) 3/4" bulkheads. This is more restrictive than I desire and I still want to use the box because it will virtually eliminate noise, splashing, and salt creep. There'll be a grommet in each hole to seal tightly to the pipes too. 2) 1" pipes passing into the box inlet is closer to what kind of flow I want. the box is too small to redrill to use 1.5" bulkheads and it's also impossible to get into unless I drill a big hole in the side. Weirdly built to say the least.

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Is that the euro brace? Is it acrylic? Silicone won't hold acrylic. If you need the brace for the thickness of material used, you may want to put a new piece over those gaps with a solvent.

 

Another weird design:

Front brace goes from left side corner and across the front just shy of right front corner. This ties 2 pieces together.

Right side brace goes full length of right side and ties 3 pieces together.

Rear is exactly like the front except opposite.

Left side is brace is where logic went out the window- it only is glued to the left side. The seam that joins the rear brace is filled with silicone about 1/4" thick and the seam at the front is a nearly tight fit except that it is crooked and it's not glued with anything.

 

The false back wall/ overflow securely holds both sides together. The sides of the tank are 1/2" and the bottom is white 3/8". The weir is 1/2".

The tank is solidly built and probably doesn't need a Euro-brace. It looks as if the brace was added at a later time.

 

I think all these things are just cosmetic issues and am happy with it.

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The box in the back chamber appears to be a drain box of some sort. It gets tons of foam build up inside- kinda like a natural protein skimmer. The area next to it has a bunch of macro waiting to be lit- haven't figured that aspect out yet.

The box inside the return area is my DSB. This has been my filtration all along and I'm hoping that it will work fully enclosed in the box.

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