traveller7

Is it Christmas yet? :D

Looking good fwiw: I still have that RBTA for you. This time of a year is a killer with my time :(

Marine Scene got it right, E. quadricolor, Bubble Tipped Anemone. If it was an LTA, either H. crispa or M. doreensis, there would be distinctly visible verrucae on the column under the oral disk. Not to mention, M. doreensis, the specimen most commonly called LTA would have its column buried in sand. H. crispa will be on rock occasionally, but typically captive specimens will also bury their column in the sand. Enjoy the BTA and don't be surprised if it divides.

Early on all it would eat was One 8"x8"ish sheet of nori per day and some macro algae. Currently feeding 3 types of Ocean Nutrition and Two Little Fishies atm, but the fish does not seem to have a preference. Currently feeding, SF spirulina brine cubes, Formula VHP, PE Mysis, and he will actually nibble on small pieces of Gamma Lancefish(I suspect the little white spaghetti noodle sized silversides would be great)

I have yet to see a pair for sale and would be very hesitant to buy any as such. Foxface are not known for their tolerance and if they were just getting along in the temporary quarters, watch out when established. Mine is a good 7" these days, but was a terrible pain to get acclimated and fattened up. He is now eating anything that hits the water. Good luck.

I use a 20gal rubbermaid brute sitting in my 100gal rubbermaid stock tank filled with 160lbs of aragonite sand in a remote DSB config. Wiped out a nasty hair algae issue within 45 days. fwiw: tank is 315gals, lots of fish, low amount of live rock by reef standards, lots of overfeeding of fish and anemones, and bare bottom.

Main display holds approx 260gallons of water. Measured flow from returns just under 2,000gph, but goes up near 3,300 when I shut the skimmer bypass off for cleaning, etc. Edit: Whoops, total system volume is 260gal in display + 40gal in sump + 15gal in Remote DSB = approx 315gals Main pump is Sequence Barracuda for return, skimmer branched off main, skimmer drains into Remote DSB. Edit#2: 3x6100 Tunze streams in display for circ :D

The thanks go to one of our new members for sharing http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showuser=1002

Some of us collect the different varieties, but you'll want to be able to isolate the little buggers which is not easy. fwiw: I have had pretty good luck isolating them on a piece of rubble, surrounded by sand, but on occassion they will release and tumble so you will stiil need to zap them when they escape.

Not real common in the hobby, so its worth a look: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?act=...=si&img=661

Rob, If these guys don't have it, no one has it: Kenseal Construction Products Corp 13968 Park Center Road Herndon, Virginia 20171 (703) 467-5988 fwiw: I have used Dow Corning 995BL, but that was for glass to abs to pvc applications. It may not be what you need for your project. edit: just checked receipts and I also used 999a in black which was sold as an equivalent to 795 if I remember correctly. Best of luck in the hunt.

No prob with them at all I have 2 applications on my current tanks: 1: sumpless, no overflow, no drilled holes = Tunze ReefPacks which I like alot for total efficiency. 2: must be driven by main return pump, reduce heat, and power consumption = downdrafts and becketts. My statements reflect design issues, not brands Full disclosure: I am not a fan of Dolphin support, and pulled all out of service switched over to Sequence(including DP series). I still have a used ETSS 800 for backup skimming. It is much too small and high maintenance for my application but runs like a champ for about a week prior to shut down. Dual beckett with easy removal reaction chamber required for this design. If my design allowed a "Euro design", I would pre-order a Tunze Master DOC Skimmer 9440.000 today in hopes of easier cleaning, low power consumption(heat).

The seller would have to pay me to take it, I don't have the space and it is not a good fit for any of my current or future projects If you have a use for it and like the price, congrats on the score. Noone else's opinion matters

Euro's and ETSS are very different styles of skimmers, both can be very effective or ineffective depending on immplementation. Not sure what your goals are, but I am not sure a used skimmer and unsupported "dolphin" pump is a good investment.

Just make sure to go with a 6055 in a smaller tank so you can tune the flow with the controller.

Not apparently at the same time. Typically you only get male gametes or female gametes. Looks like a female to me. The only wrinkle in that formula I am aware of are E. quadricolor ejecting fully formed young from tentacle tips etc. I have not seen research to determine if they are clones, self fertilized, fertilized from external source, etc; only theories. Waratah anemones are known to eject fully formed young from the oral cavity. Not much, but hope it helps

I am not aware of anything that would be 100% safe for the coral and trigger 100% mortality of a cyst. I would likely just FW dip and maybe hit it with a hydroplex bath

Well then make sure you set aside that little BTA in the upper left corner of the frag tank....I made some space :D

When in cyst form it is theoretically possible. I would QT anything at least 30 days before adding it to my system, regardless of source. What is semi dormant in one reefers tank, may explode in yours.

That would be Noel Perez, owner or operator of Oceans Aqauriums: http://reefcentral.com/forums/member.php?s...nfo&userid=5255 Only feed back I saw on RC: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...ight=noel+perez But more to your expressed concerns: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...727#post1962727 You might find more information on www.CVReefers.org the Central Valley club site. IMHO, spending 15% more locally is a far better "risk". Many vendors will not support products unless they are purchased through authorized resale channels.

From the description, I would lean toward crypto or amyloo. IME, 6 weeks, of a fishless tank at proper parameters is a minimum. Keep the SG at SW levels to make sure the cysts keep hatching and dying.

Thanks John, I'll be down today :>)

Well meaning, but frankly: cleaner gobies and wrasses in a closed system don't have a prayer of keeping up with parasite loads within the system. If the fish are sick, you'll need to treat them.

All good, thanks for the clarification A. sebae is one of my targets, but they are such terrible shippers :(