traveller7

Looks very much like the Bartholomae species, same one that contains curly cue anemones from the Atlantic,Bartholomae annulata. Way to small to be sure, but nematocyst structure is not like your garden variety Aiptasia species. Catch 22: need to grow it out for better ID - it may grow into lots fwiw: If it were mine, I would risk it in a fuge or semi isolated environment :>) fwiw2: It is definitely not a "Borneman Anemone".

They can no longer compete with LFS's ordering direct from LA wholesalers, etc. When I was buying for local shop(s) and service business G&G, Mid-Atlantic, and NOVA were the only cost effective salt water wholesale operations in town. That was half a life ago and the distribution model has improved immensely, for buyer, LFS, and livestock. Don't feel bad for the death of a model that should have been retired years ago. I do wish her the best, she did a nice business for about 20 years.

It has been years since I have been in there, but I would not expect much in the way of livestock, prob a better deal for someone in aquaculture, big fish room, etc. This is all based on them selling all the life support and my ancient experience with Nova Trop, the owner, etc. If they are selling the tanks, etc., what is the livestock in?

For frag tank set up, yes. I suspect the good stuff will have been picked over by the LFS's and they are cleaning out the rest......but there is always hope they decided to buy a bunch of really good, rare, and exotic live stock right before going out of business

NOVA Tropicals used to be a wholesale supplier to LFS's. On ocassion joe public would get in, but most of the time you needed an account.

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8724

Most of my bulbs test out extremely high for the first 100hours of use. Definitely a good idea to increase the distance or shield the critters as the bulbs break in. Sorry to hear about corals bad reacation, hopefully they recover quickly.

Ack! Sorry to hear of the loss :( Its always a disappointment when long term pets check out, but I am sure it helps to know you did the most anyone could have.. I would wait for a few months and pick up a nice heathly juvenile(1/3 the size of the "male" that should start moving toward female over the next few weeks). Feed well it is quite a process Prob a good idea to let the tank settle out for awhile and see if there is an active infection on any other fish.

Would it be safe to assume the following: - fins are clamped tight - breathing is almost 2x per second - she is swimming in one place with exagerated movements If I remember correctly, they double dose the initial on one but not the other. I have definitely used maracyn 2 at double strength throughout multiple treatment cycles. If you have a little air pump and stone, it would help. Worst case, add a small powerhead with venturi, just make sure the flow does not move her around too much. I am glad to hear she is upright, I was pretty concerned that the pathogen may have done enough damage internally that she lost control. Such might still be the case, but I am happy to she got it back under control. I don't really hit the panic button over feeding until the 5 day mark any more, as long as she ate up until the last 48 hours, I figure there are 3 days to slug it out without a lack of feeding risk. Crossing fingers

Continued bummer. Bouyancy control loss is not helpful at this stage. What level of SG is the water down to? From full 1.026, I would not hesitate get down to 1.017 in a few hours. IMHO Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 since you were/are already on that path. Don't be afraid to double the dosage. If it is viral as opposed to bacterial, I am not optimistic. I am pretty sure there is still some parasitic activity in the main tank and in the hospital tank. How is the the breathing rate on the female?

Most of the energy sent to the bulb is dumped in the form of heat. 400w "HQI" ballast can easily pull more then 700w, most ballasts will send more to bulb; hence more heat and likely more light, hopefully more in the spectrum where PAR is available. 400w Bluelines pull 380watts each in my configuration. Less heat and less PAR are produced at the bulb end which has been accounted for in my application. Unfortunately, some bulbs don't burn at the desired color temperature with my Bluelines, hence my frank opinion: choose your bulb, then match your ballast to the bulb at desired color Cheers.

Ah yes, the hippo, fish equivalent to Typhoid Mary in our aquaria....if they weren't so darn good looking. I understand the frustration and applaud not giving up, if the clown just stopped eating, there is still a great chance for a recovery. 1st off: no longer use the tank water for water changes, it is just going to "import" more parasites into the hospital. Do you have a big container to make 40gal or so of new saltwater? 2nd: read up a bit on some of the stuff I have so poorly babbled about here: http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j.../marineich.html 3rd: The $1M question, Ich or Amyloo? I would lean toward Ich at this point and likely skip the freshwater dip, although it likely will not hurt as long as temp, pH, etc., are matched pretty closely. I would use hyposalinity, it is well documented and effectively used in aquaculture. Must have an accurate hydrometer, must monitor pH(very little pH buffers without salt/sand/etc), and must raise the specific gravity slowly. 4th: IMHO treat all the fish in the tank at once with hyposalinity. You can cure the hippo at the same time If you don't have a tank, I have 2 hospital grade 55gals, you can have one(I posted these free before). http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j...posalinity.html 5th: keep that hospital around and ready for any new additions, once you get that ich out, you don't want it back fwiw: I use and 80gal hospital for new additions, it is fully cycled, has rubble rock, skimmer, Normal tube lighting to isolate new clowns, etc. Ich is a pain, amyloo is scary, and brook is downright deadly. Keeping these away from the long timers is well worth the extra effort. Good luck and hang in there

Been running blueline 400w with XM20K's for quite some time, have tried just about every bulb and I prefer the single bulb ability of the 20K to produce the look I like. My anemones don't grow fast. Algae does not grow fast. No corals in here. 32" tank depth. LA3 compact fixtures, 400w SE with old Diamond mogul mount is a tight fit, very tight fit. The bluelines burn the bulb with less heat/PAR/etc then then a magnetic.....this has been a blessing and a curse. IMHO the bluelines are extremely narrow in bulb selection, if you like to experiment, they are not a good choice. If you like to save electricity and BTU/hr they are a good choice. fwiw: If I was buying from scratch for a tank yoursize, I would be getting SLS or PFO fixtures, 250DE bulbs, and IceCap ballasts. Much greater variety and compatibility with plenty of PAR. fwiw2: I ran 3x150w over a similar tank, 2x20K and 1x6.5-10K with great results; 20Ks on for 12 hours, the higher par Iwasaki type on for 6 hours. This was very balanced, gave a good look, and great growth. Best of luck and have fun

Bummer :( Last things first: If it is parasites and no new items were added to the hospital tank, they came into the treatment area from the main display. The fish may not show symptoms, but the parasites are likely in the main tank. They may have actually been catalyst for the septicemia. fwiw: If nothing new has been added, the parasites are likely marine ich or amyloo. Both are susceptible to copper and both manifest in similar fashion. IME, clowns are more likely to get amyloo but it still could be either. If she has been eating the whole time, I would not recommend adding live food. Can't afford possible risks of further introductions of bad stuff to a highly stress fish. At this point you can: - add coppersafe(yes it is okay to mix with the other Mardel products) - lower the specific gravity to 1.009 wtih a calibrated refractometer (my preference for marine ich) - perform a freshwater dip with pH and temperature corrected water. (this may provide the fish 24hrs of comfort by dislodging some of the parasites) Are you familiar with the above procedures? Copper alone at proper dosage (difficult to dose and maintain proper levels) will normally provide some relief at about the 2-3 day mark. Has the pH crashed or the Ammonia spiked?

Calming, prevents shadows, etc. Glad to hear she is getting better every day now :>)

Nice update Still streaks, more treatment necessary. Yes to both antibiotics. Did you dim the lights? Keeping activity away from the tank is a good idea as well, even taping and covering the sides with newspaper(a local breeder finally convinced me to do this, it works) 3 to 5 days minimum, preferably a bit more if you can keep her eating enough. I am sure she feels better to be alive and looks forward to getting back home ;>) Keep up the good work

Thickness of a "one inch" bulkhead vary considerably by brand. What size hole do you need drilled?

Quite a bit can be found in on this concept in the vodka dosing threads.

My crosshatch triggers play a bit. Male is almost an inch smaller then the female, but they are both pretty good size 7" or so. Male lets the female know who is boss, especially when feeding. After eating the Male will turn light blue over the dorsal surface and then start chasing/swimming next to the female, then head down to the substrate. Here he will "blow" water at the sand and stir up quite a mess. Af few minutes later, the blue fades from the male. This happens after the meal, almost every evening. Call me clueless, but it is quite something to watch.

Wow, if that is current condition of the fish keep her eating, dim the lighting, and make sure to add medication at proper dosage for all the water removed at proper dosage. I would err toward maracyn 2 doing the trick over time and might even up the dosage if it does not appear to be curbing the condition within 48 hours. The maracyn (1) is not likely going to tackle the blood issue, but having it in there will help prevent other opportunistic infections. Post another picture if you can in 48 hours or so and hopefully we don't have to pull out the heavy artillery. fwiw: I am pretty sure the septicemia is further along then it appears because her body is dark colored and masking it. fwiw2: Don't use Maracyn in your main system. fwiw3: While a nice anemone photo of the tank, some of the ID characteristics are not visible, but if I had to make a bet, your anemone appears to be M. doreensis, common name Long Tentacled Anemone. And a nice looking one at that

Dark spots, may be scarring, protozoans, melanism from hosting in xenia, zoos, LPS, etc. Pictures would help If there are no other fish in the tank, I would treat the male. If there are other fish in the tank, I would give the little lady 10 days and see how she is doing solo. During such time, look for symptoms in the other fish, if any show: treat them all. fwiw: large female clowns can go through some serious chow if they are producing eggs(even if they don't lay) and most folks are quite surprised how much they need to stay healthy. Mine get PE mysis, Cyclopeze, Enriched Brine, Lancefish, and Nori multiple times a week. Cheers and continued good luck to you and the fish btw: do you have some pictures of the LTA online?

M81 is the typical 150w HQI magnetic ballast. Most I have seen are the multi tap version. This the link to the Advance model cross reference for the ebay DEL-00246: http://www.advancetransformer.com/uploads/...DEL-00246%22%22 This the the base Advance datasheet listed, it is for the M102/M142: http://www.advancetransformer.com/eCatalog.../9387685001.pdf fwiw: I have 10 Advance 71A8540 M81's in/use/used: http://www.advancetransformer.com/eCatalog.../9387685002.pdf fwiw: spec's of an M81 and M102 are similar. They use the same Capacitor, but the minimun requirements are slightly different. They use vastly different igniters, the M81 supports double the ballast to lamp distance. In my experience, get an M81, not an M102. 150DE bulbs can be finicky at start as it is....... Cheers.

Septicemia typically has bacteria or viral roots. Good that erosion has not progressed. As to why it manifested now, impossible to say. I would look at the water conditions, potential dietary deficiencies, new critters added, as a start. Definitely add the Maracyn 2 and stick with it for most of this battery. You can use the freshwater version if needed, but get the Saltwater if can. A bare hospital is best for the meds, but definitely havoc on the water quality. Precipitous drops in pH and spikes in ammonia will both be issues to track and prepare for. Daily water change and siphoning of uneaten food within a hour is a good plan. General: clowns are very tough to "age", they can spend many years in juvenile form prior to becoming a male or female. 30 years is not unheard of although my oldest current resident is verified over 10years, rumored to be 14+ years. I would rule out age triggered issues at this stage. General2: what kind of anemone is it hosting in?

Ouch Chip, that is a tough moniker to live up to, not to mention, my Inbox is always full O.o Inna, Are the streaks in the fins or on the body? Both? Have the fins deteriorated? Are there any lumps forming around the mouth? Is there any discoloration or erosion in/around the head(first stripe on a clarkii)? Any ideas at what may have triggered the infection? (the answer to this may prompt a recommendation to treat them both together) Are both clowns mature? How long have they been together? Is the treatment tank a bare bottom? Such a change can occur in 30days, but you can likely delay such a change by cutting back on the feeding. Maracyn and Maracyn Two together may be the best route since it appears the fish is getting one of the meds already. Keep her fed and the ammonia low in that 10gal...it will get out of hand fast.

If you got it, use it or sell it fwiw: a few tweaks to overflows, skimmer placement, etc., can make even dog skimmers work quite a bit better. If you want to toy around with skimmer optimizations here is a fine discussion, just be prepared for some serious reading and don't say I did not warn you :D Part 1: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...mp;pagenumber=1 Part 2: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=723744