traveller7

Ah yes....my affinity for pedestal stands fwiw: the one linked above has 12"+ of overhang on both sides, 288gals of water total volume in the tank. Trick is lots of full length sag free cross members and vertical exterior plywood to prevent the stand from racking. Do I recommend such a design, no. Have I done it, yes. For the record, all 3 current of my current stands are pedestals

They can, but typically end up shedding the existing tube first. I have had significant better luck with specimens that kept their original tube before being set in the sand. IME, better off placing the tube and then surround/bury the tube with fine substrate. Mine prefers to eat mysis after lights out. Good luck.

Have had A. percula with very little black so that is not a good indicator, check the pair in my gallery on RC. Dorsal spine counts are difficult to determine on living specimens and counts over lap unfortunately, so the method is not a perfect indicator. Black and white variants tend to be quick visual checks. A. percula almost always has some orange remaining face and tail. Black A. ocellaris may have an orange chin at maturity. Most common way of identifying between orange/white variants of A. ocellaris and A. percula is the eye ring clarity and dorsal fin structure. Post a pic when you get a chance

Apologies for being late to the party.... The skunks as a general rule will defend an anemone extremely vigorously, typically more so then percula and ocellaris pairs. They do not tend to wander as much as some others, but they you can bet they will keep fish away from their territory. In my humble opinion, most mixed tanks are better off with percula or ocellaris. At the end of the day, remember clowns are damsels, don't be surprised if they generate some aggro.

Glad to hear you are QTing your corals as well :>) It will make your hobby experience so much more enjoyable.

Please don't. While your fish are in treatment, please don't add anything new to your display tank unless it has also been through QT. Even simple zoanthids have brought truly nasty critters in with them. Everything you add should be quarantined, to prevent adding nasties to your display.

Sean, Any luck tracking down a decent source of piperazine citrate? I have been eyeballing the Erliworm dog wormer for emergencies. Scott

Based on my reading of a few reports, it appears the only illegality was a lack of paperwork, aka procedural. Not trying to diminish the infraction, just bring up the point: It appears the import of the rock itself was not illegal; the lack of paper trail was illegal.

If you shut off the pump, lift the tubes to let the standing water out slowly, remove the tubes, you should be able to reach in a grab him easily. Their skin is pretty tough, I would only be worried about scratching the eyes.

Jeff, If they are in your big tank, I would suspect you have quite a few more, IME: the mini's wander quite a bit. Removal? Best to take the rock or catch them when they are moving. When happy the have the foot planted pretty deeply in a crevice. Best of luck folks.

Deb, Are these the Black Ocellaris? If so, mine will color shift a bit on occassion depending on just about everything including mood. Make sure there is no erosion of tissue, redness(tough to tell on these guys), whitish string like material, or thin whitish slime on the dorsal part of the body. To go along with all these diagnostics, check the first white stripe for any pitting and accelerated breathing. If none of the above, add some new food to the diet and keep us posted Cheers.

Tunze Osmolator.

Nothing like patience being rewarded.

The only hang ons that I would consider would be a Deltec external hang on or the Tunze internal hang on. fwiw: My money went to Tunze in the form or the ReefPack 500. Easy maintenance, no fuss, no muss, top off options, denitrator option, etc., etc.

The height is a limiting factors for all the seahorse, except dwarfs. Should be a mansion for them though if you can keep the food levels up The height is a limit for many of the seagrasses, but some can grow right out the top with a good sand bed. Billsreef has some interesting marine plants from time to time: http://billsreef.safeshopper.com/28/cat28.htm?908 Sounds like an interesting project have fun with it

Bummer. I would as well.

A brand name for low iron glass. There are other brands, aka Diamante, etc. Low iron glass leaves much of that "green" hue out and is desired when construction requires thicker glass. Small systems are more noticeably clear as well, but the difference in clarity is not as striking as comparing 19mm low iron to traditional float/plate/temper glass. When you see a 180 low iron next to a 180 standard glass, it is jaw dropping.

Depends on what the previous owner cleaned the skimmer with, it might take days to dilute some cleaners, plasticizers, etc. Adding a JG does allow some fine tuning, a place to inject calcium reactor effluent, etc. Get the sucker working as best as possible before investing more in it. Personally, I prefer to have my pump on full and either run 100% to skimmer or 100% back to sump. Typically I tee off pump output with a gate or a ball on both ends of the T fitting. This allows you to disconnect the skimmer, but never shut off the pump. It also allows for fully variable flow control at all times. Good luck.

IME: There are numerous potential events going on. Naso's when unhappy change color quite dramatically. Dark brown to almost white, but typically extreme. Is there any external damage at all? Redness on fin edge, cloudy eyes, a sheen to the dorsal surface, accelerated breathing? Taken from the PBT thread: Is the fish still eating? - if the fish is still eating, keep nori in the tank 24x7 - if the fish is still eating, saturation feed with mysis, spirulina brine, etc. 3x or more a day (get ready for some water changes we are talking some serious food here) The fish needs to eat until it does not eat any more at each feeding, along with any other new arrival. Frankly, I have a page of questions about the fish itself, but I would be pest to post some pictures asap. I have had to copper a bunch of tangs(clowns and Amyloo) over the years and have yet to lose one from copper. I did lose a Kole to formalin within minutes, but that is a different story.

Have you had a chance to read through this article? http://www.breedersregistry.org/Reprints/S...sumr/shrimp.htm or a quick review of the shrimp rearing guide and the link to the author http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/1/media or our friends the mysis http://www.syngnathid.org/articles/mysisCulturing.html

It looks like an older model or the original owner skipped the option for the JG fitting. The old style countersunk holes are there though.

Give it a few days. If you have a bypass in place so that you can divert water back to the sump and dialin the rate of flow without putting a huge amount of backpressure on the pump; stay with the 12. Jason Kim at AqauC is definitely helpful, it is good advice to drop him a line. Cheers.

From the picture it appears to be snail waste.

Definitely makes it worth it to have them drill the more expensive low iron glass. It would be a bummer to chip or crack one them

How long has the skimmer been running on the tank? Might take a few days to "break in" again depending on the cleaning agents used. What happens when you have the unused injector covered? Mine was quite sensitive to flow and too much turbulence broke down the foam. From one of the pics, it looks like the bubble spray is coating the upper areas with organics, so it looks like there is definitely something to skim. IMHO, it would not be bad to experiment a bit with the pump size, but every time you feed, put your hands in tank, etc., you are headed backwards a period of time on foam build up from the oils.