dschflier

I had a pair of flames in my main tank for years and now I just have a single one. My main tank has SPS, LPS and soft corals. I have never noticed him eating any of them. This is just my experience.

Very nice the tank looks to be very healthy. great water movment

Wow that is to bad. It looks like your tank was beautiful. did I sell you that angel a bunch of years ago?

I did Thanks guys

thanks I do but I wanted to order now and I am at work. I am actually using it for a maxijet mod not my tunzees as stated. Thanks for the info

I am looking at getting a couple of magnetic holders for my tunzees does anyone know how thick the glass on a standard 210 gallon tank is? Thanks

dont trust Borets spanish. He makes it up as he goes along

Very interesting. I will try as well.

Very nice clean look. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

This is what I would do and have seen this done with success. I would use two clamps on each side then get the plexiglass strip and nylon screws. After it is done you can remove the clamps.

hey Salvador, I always have plenty. I only charge $60 for a softball size. Mine is prime stuff. It is worth every penny. David

I agree. Pretty straight forward. Just take it outside rinse sand in a buckett and then rinse again and again. I had to do this with some of my sand from my 210 after it cracked. It just takes a bit of rinsing. I am not sure why warm water is so bad but cold water has generally worked fine for me. I have used warm water in the past with no real problems either.

Before I saw Zyoteks response that is what I thought it was. Do you have any macro in your main system or even in your sump. I would compare a pice to it

I have to disagree with zygoteck this time. Just my opinion but I dont see why you would feel carbon is necessary and not GFO. If your opinion is to go all natural and try that way I could see your point. Carbon will remove organic compounds which will reduce the amount of food in the water and GFO will lower Phosphates another major food source. This is the way I always attack the problem. First I always think of what the objective is. In my mind it is to remove the unwanted algae. It doesn't have to be completely gone but completely under control. When I get to this point I then just maintain what I have accomplished. The way I attack the problem is from every front I can think of. 1) I make sure my RO/DI filters are still good 2) I did 30% water changes for 2 weeks and then I went to 20% until I got the problem under control. The % change just worked for me. I am not suggesting this amount is what you need to do. 3) I started using 1 cup of GFO per 100 gallons and 2 cups of carbon per 100 gallons of water. I also changed the media every 3 weeks for about 4 months. I still use a similar amount of media now but change it out about once every 2 months. 4) I then started scrubbing any off I could find. 5) I began dosing Kalk which binds more of the Phosphates. 6) I also reduced my rock work substantially and tried to have few dead spots. I figured this would starve the algae. In 2 months I noticed much of my hair algae turning white and some falling off. Some of my macro was also turning white or translucent. I did all this for about 4 months. This worked for me. It didn't happen over night and I sill believe certain fish and a bunch of snails do an excellent job. When dealing with a closed system I believe using all the tools that have shown to work is almost a must.

I agree with zygote. What are your phosphates? To me it doesn't look that bad. I would get rid of the filter pads and bio balls. I would add more macro if you dont have much to compete with the algea growing. I would add carbon and GFO as well as a lawnmower blennie and more snails. I would also increase water changes for a couple of months while again scrapping off the algea. Starving it should slow it down and if you have the blennie and snails helping out I think you should be able to get rid of it. Having no fish you should be able to keep the bio load down to a minimum. I would think using the above mentioned ideas would work. Just my 2cents

man how come I cant have a good LFS within 10 minutes of me.

I think cheapest and easiest for the size tank you are talking about would definitly be Kalkwasser. You can drip it or get a dosing pump. My setup is over 350 gallons and I have a good amount of SPS and I still haven't started using my calcium reactor. I only mention this because I think with a 34gallon tank it would be a bit overkill

Did the video have a lot to do with your choice in lighting. Where did you get the video?

hey Khalid, It is always nice meeting new people. Especially someone with similar interests. This is what I love about the hobby. Iit was great meeting you as well and if you ever have any questions please let me know. I will do my best to answer them. David

bump

Hey old man. Nice to have you as a fellow WAMAS member. I am the controller Tom(Origami2547) was talking about. This is a great group of people here I think you will be happy you joined. I worked at the center about 10 years ago.

Great thread. I am glad I found it and will read the other connecting threads as well. I hope this isn't considerd hijacking a thread. I figure it wasn't being used anyway. I have been considering starting up my calcium reactor for a long time and have just been chicken to do it. I finally feel within the next couple of days I am going to. I have a AC2 but will not be using it initially and will be getting PH probes but will not be using them initially either. do you think it is safe to check my PH and Alkalinity before I begin. Start adding Co2 and a drip rate of 1drip per sec and a flow rate double that. I have a marine technical concepts reactor which looks like this I am also curious if anyone on the board here has used one of these before. I am not sure what the red tubing is for. I dont think the reactor has a place to put a PH probe but I might be wrong. One more question I have never used the regulator and solenoid. Does the first control open all the way up and the second one controls the drip rate? Any insight is appreciated.

I have three tanks on one system. My two smaller ones are on at night and my main display during the day. My understanding is it does.