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I don't think your Calcium is too low, or is the problem here. Overall your parameters seem to be fine. One thing I would recommend is getting a pH probe so that you can acurately monitor your pH levels. The glass panels over your MH lights are the UV filters. Double-Ended bulbs require them. If your bulbs are original then they are probably Aqualine AB 10K. One of the best bulbs out there. They should last more than a year. A PAR meter is a good reference point and if you manage to get your hands on the club meter (perhaps Howard knows where it's at) you could compare your readings at different depths to see if you're in line with other tanks that we measured. As far as other issues, make sure you have good flow (judging by the pic looks like you have enough) Make sure you check your skimmer output. On the tank your size, you should have a good size unit. Personally I would avoid any commercial additives and simply invest in a Kalk or Ca reactor if your goal is to keep lots of SPS corals. But for now simple A/B formula that you can mix yourself is the chepest way to keep Ca and Alk in balance. --Rob

Hi Dave, Welcome to WAMAS. I'm sure the collective brain will figure out specific problems that you may be currently experiencing. But for now, can you please post your water parameters (including test kits you're using). Are you dosing any additives? Also, can you list your filtration equipment - skimmers, uv, what you got in the sump (LR, bio-balls...) etc... How often are you performing water changes? What salt mix do you use? What kind (color temp) are your MH bulbs, and are you using the UV filters that come with the fixture? (I'm assuming 250W DE bulbs). For now, you may want to reduce the light period - I think 12 hrs is a bit too long. You may want to try 9-10 hr period plus 1hr actinic. Also, increase the volume of your water changes - on a 250g system thats a lot of water you need to change, but it may ultimately be the culrpit of your problems. Regards, --Rob

Thanks for the link. I'll measure the output ALK, pH and slow down the flow. You're probably right. I just figured - 300gal system, I should just crank up the flow... --Rob

Question for Ca reactor veterans... How much water should I be flowing through a Ca reactor on a 300gal system? Currently flowing about 1L/min using a Mag3 pump (Ca reactor is about 2' above the sump - so that's all I can get) Still, dosing A&B is necessary to keep up with the Ca load. Any recommendations? Stronger pump? --Rob

oops....

Are you dosing Miracle-Gro? --Rob

Are you sure about the dimensions of the tank? 48x24x20 equates 100 gal... -- Rob

I've been to Koh Samui and I have done couple of dives there. It was 7 or 8 years ago so it may have changed, but the lodging, food, and diving was dirt cheap. Water was warm, crystal clear but the reefs were just ok - nothing spectacular compared to Hawaii. For me it was a good training experience. This was before I got into salt water fish, so it's possible that I just didn't recognize anything. -- Rob

Does anyone carry A.R.M. or any other good Ca reactor media locally? I'm almost all out. Thanks, -- Rob

I was just doing my taxes today and came across a question in TurboTax regarding fishing income. "Fishing income is generated by a trade or business that catches, takes or harvests fish. Fish include finfish, mollusks, crustaceans, and all other forms of marine animal and plant life other than marine mammals or birds." So, let's see - how many of us are actually reporting income generated by the sale of SPS and LPS corals? -- Rob

This is what i know about Denitrate. Again. I have heard about if a few times, but the folks at Marine Scene and Wallys really got me thinking about it. De*nitrate

Thanks you two! I was wondering if I should try siphoning it. I was just doing water changes so I didn't suck up the sand. Yes, it does seem to retract at night. It almost has a gross bubble to it. I wonder if air bubbles air getting stuck in it, or if maybe it is part of it. Once it gets bubbly, it seems to lift from the sand and float around-great! That has to be good for spreading it everywhere. UGH! I was thinking maybe I couldn't see it as well when just the actinics are on. Good to know that it actually does seem to go away. What a PITA!!!!!! It's like an invasion! I appreciate everyone's help-thought I was going to lose this battle :( Now I have some new things to try. --Pam

Sounds like that could be helpful. Perhaps I could use that denitrate stuff. Have you heard of it or think it is worthwhile? Would carbon help. I have carbon but didn't have a media reactor. --Pam

Thanks again, I will try what you say. You refresh every two weeks meaning add more, or dump old and replace with new? BTW, I am not sure that I know what a complete media reactor actually is... Thank you Dave. I appreciate all of the information. I think I will try your less aggressive approach. Thank you! --Pam

Thank you Chip! I actually started feeding them form 1, 2 and reef flakes exactly as you say about two weeks ago. I used to do that on occasion, but now I am only doing that-well except once a week, I was soaking it in selcon and garlic first. I won't do that now. I am not sure what you mean by more randon current and make sure the water surface is broken. Can you suggest something I can buy to make that happen? Yes, I am still using the Kalk and Kalk reactor but I think we need to replace the Kalk. I am guessing your DIY reactor is similar to mine? Anyway, thank you! As always, I appreciate the tips! Hope all is well --Pam

Thank you. The bulbs are not very old but will have to check how old. I do think the problem started when my well-intentioned house sitter fed my fish a crazy amount of food. I have been struggling like you to get it back under control. I will check the lighting and see what that does. Let me know if your new lights help you. --Pam

Thanks for your responses. Yes, I use Ro/Di. TDS reads .01. I am doing water changes and have cut down on feeding A LOT! I could try to change light cycle, but don't want to cause problems for the clams etc. I have many cleaners in there. Including a few hundred hermits (several are redtips), shrimp, snails, emeralds, sally, etc. I think the flow where is started was an issue but am not sure I can find a way to resolve that without causing a sand storm. Yes, it is called Denitrate. You can put it in a bag and keep it in a high flow area of your sump. It was recommended by folks at Wally's and Marine Scene a while ago. I think is just isn't enough in my sump but there is no room to put more (in a high flow area). --Pam

I have been having a problem with cyanobacteria in my tank. I am pretty sure that my house sitter probably over fed my tank while I was away about a month ago. Anyway, I have been doing water changes weekly and it seems to improve the problem but never solves it. The very next day, I can see signs of it coming back and within a few days it looks terrible again. I am sure that I have not been overfeeding, in fact, I am starting to think some of fish want to eat me they are so hungry. Any ideas what I should try? Also, the nitrates are high but I can't seem to solve that either. I put a de-nitrate bag in the sump, but there isn't really enough room in there to put more. I haven't seen improvement. Thanks! --Pam PS) I have been changing about 36-45 gallons a week for the past 4 or 5 weeks. The tank is about 260 gallons plus the sump.

Hmm... Thanks Dave! -- Rob

The reactor is CR422 by Precision Marine. http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=PM3111 -- Rob

Also... the input water from the tank (at the top of the reactor) has a valve - which I'm keeping open. The output does not have a valve.

Hey Chip... I've been busy with life and work I guess. But I'm still around Dave, my reactor has the output on the bottom - at the point of CO2 injection. -- Rob

Is there a way to keep the water inside a Ca reactor at a constant level? The two Ca reactors that I have experience with always seem to gradually 'lose' water (over a period of 1-2 weeks). I'm fairly sure that the reactor is not leaking, but since there is the injection of CO2, could it be that the bubble counter is set to high? Thanks, -- Rob

Now you tell me I was in a rush to get some-but would have gone there too. --Pam Thanks! I have ordered from them a few times and always been really happy (and the prices are great!). I have been trying to reach them by phone, email and the "contact us" portion of the site for a few weeks. They usually call back (Cory and Kenton) within hours-not weeks. I am worried something might be off there :( --Pam