davjbeas

For years i only used the one unit. recently I figured out my product water was 6 tds. I decided to add a second one. Adding the 2nd one I got 0 tds. my tap water is around 168 tds. when the cartridge is new the resin is green. when it all turns purple it is exhausted. I only have to change the first one when it is exhausted. If i dont change it then the second one will start to turn purple. David B.

This is what I use. http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/11278/product.web put 2 together for perfect water. When changing cartridges always throw away the first pint. I have been using this system for years. When buying the refill when you order 6 or more it costs around 14$ each. sometimes they go on sale cheaper. David

I am using DI only. But in a different way. I use Dual Aquarium Pharmacueticals(Brand Name) tap water purifier units. I get 0 TDS. Its quick and easy and compact. Costs more to run annualy than a RO/DI unit. There is no waste water though. I can make 5 gallons in 20 minutes though. David B

I really needed to hear that. When doing work, water changes I will remember to turn off uv unit. Thanks, David

I did research before i purchased a UV sterilizer. The key was to know how much flow there was going to be through the unit. My return pump from the sump is a mag 7 which i figured was going to push 500 gallons or so per hour. I planned to put the unit before my chiller. The 57 watt unit was the right wattage for the flow I was going to have for the protozoan kill rate. I am running the unit 24/7. The unit i got has a built in wiper which you pull to remove any buildup on the quartz sleeve. Build up on the sleeve will decrease the amount of UV radiation that passes into the water going through the unit. David B.

If I understand correctly the auto shut off valve stops the feed completely to the RO unit. Therefore there would be no waste water when the shut off is shut. I am considering getting a RODI Sytem. Are these shutoff valves 100% reliable? I would hate to come home to a flood. David B.

I think I have one at home that I purchesed but never used. I will Check when I get home tonight. Pm me if you're interested. David B.

They are great. There customer service is really good. David B.

Thanks for looking. Chip, that is a montipora. It was a smaller chunk when i got it 7 months ago from reefermadness.us It hasnt encrusted yet but it is growing. Originally it was bright red. I believe it is doing well because I can see all the little polyps. David B.

Hi, This is my 75 gallon reef tank. It has been up and running for 2-1/2 years. It has a shallow crushed coral substrate. The lighting is dual 250 watt 14K bulbs with 2 54 watt geissman T5 Pure actinic bulbs. The Sump is a regular 20 gallon tank. I have a 10 gallon acrylic tank that I have converted to a refugium that is fed from the sump and the water drains back to the sump. I am using a magnum 350 canister filter with the 5 micron filter to polish the water. The return to the main tank from the sump goes through a 57 watt UV sterilzer and then through a 1/3 HP chiller then back to the display. Also I have an auto topoff system that tops off from evaporation with Deionized water. I am currently not using a kalkwasserreactor. There is a heater in the sump to raise temp when needed. i am using a medusa 2 stage unit for temp control. Skimming is done with a deltec APF600 which is fed from the overflow in the display tank. I am using a MAG7 for the sump return to the main tank. I am using an ehiem pump to feed water to the refugium. The refugium has dual overflows in case 1 gets clogged. This is extra protection against a flood. The line to the refugium has a ball valve to fine tune how much water is being pushed through the refugium. I am using a reefkeeper II controller for all the lights, To monitor PH and controlling the cycleing of the pwerheads. I use Reef Crystals for all water changes. Also for water purification there are dual tap water purifiers that can make a lot of water quick. I recently have added a Kent marine phosban reactor. It hangs on the sump and is fed from a maxi jet 1200 with a ball valve to control the flow through the reactor. Here are my pictures...... Full tank shot left side Middle shot Right side Refugium tank and fuge Equipment and design Magnum filter with quick disconnects Sump Temperature controller I made a hole in the wall so some of my equipment is in the kitchen. The hole leads to a 30" bas cabinet in the kitchen Here is the cabinet that holds the UV sterilizer and chiller. Notice the holes in the base. Those are for the air intake to the chiller. The exhaust from the chiller comes out the right side of the cabinet. I used foam to get a good seal between the chiller and the side of the cabinet Here is the auto topoff. There is a float valve in the sump and one in the resovoir. 1/2" tubing goes to the sump for top off. Here are little frag mounts with magnets for mounting corals on glass sides of tanks. Here you can see anthelia mounted and encrusting using these magnets Corals Coraline on side of tank. Happy Reefing! I will answer any questions anyone has. David B.

Those pictures are fantastic. Are you using a special lense for those shots? David B.

I saw on blue zoo aquatics that banded coral shrimp eat bristle worms. http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productDeta...1233&cid=84 good luck david b.

Wow, thats my old tank I donated to Floris Elementry. With the same wood canopy I built. If the canopy hasn't been modified since I gave it to davelin, make sure the muffin fan is working. I wired it to come on when the halides are powered up. Since the canopy is all wood the fan is important to keep the temperature from reaching dangerous levels. I live in Reston and will donate SPS frags if you need some. Also I have Red and purple shrooms. Also xenia. David B.

I would use rubbing alcohol. Being an organic solvent it should work better than water. David

Heres the link http://www.metacafe.com/watch/725919/hi/ David P.S. not my tank.

Magnum 350 canister with reef carbon from kent marine change 2x per month David B

heres a link to underwater lighting http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/23741/product.web David

I use one of those small strainers with handles like you would use to remove pulp when pouring orange juice through it. Every night I get 5 cubes of frozen prime reef (sometimes frozen mysis) and turn the kitchen faucet on hot water. it takes 20 seconds for the cubes to unfreeze then i Squish the cubes to get all the fluid out. then the feeding begins. very simple. David B.

For a 45 gallon tank I would go with a mag 7 for the sump return. I am using mag 7 pumps for my 75 gallon reef and 55 gallon FOWLR tank. it is plenty of flow. David

I wouldn't trust that rating for effective protozoan control. Mabe thats the maximum GPH you can force through it. there are usually ratings on what GPH the unit will act as a clarifier, and at what max GPH you can have for 100% protozoan kill rate. David B.

Go for the deltec. BRK Can get them and help with the plumbing. David

I live in a small condo and I dont have space for a fish room or i would have a Reverse osmosis filter with DI Here is what I use and have used for years. it makes water much quicker than a RO/DI system. Just slip it over the faucet and turn the water on. It is costlier than an RO unit since the cartidge needs to be changed when exhausted. On the positive side there is no waste water. I usually buy 6 cartridges at a time for around 14$ each. This unit is very convenient. Linky V http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/11278/product.web David Forgot to mention you dont need to adjust the PH or electrolytes when using the water for top off purposes or making new saltwater. You do need to only when using for freshwater purposes. Salt mixes already contain all the buffers. DAvid

If you decide to become a wamas member you will have access to the full site. There is a section for selling frags and one for trading. You would be able to post your interest in frags or buying frags/selling frags and then communicate with others what you want to buy or trade. meet at the meeting and do your trade. Or arrange meeting at a residence or local fish store. David B.

The pop is mostly coming from the breaker box when the breaker kicks. I can't be sure if its the balast or the bulb. i have it narrowed down to the MH bulb on the right side. I am trying to run the lights with only the t5 actinics and the left MH bulb for now. I don't mind paying if there is a place I can take it to be diagnosed and repaired. I spent a lot of time yesterday on this unit (dissasemble and switch out the bulb base) so at this point I would rather someone with experience check it out. David B.

Hello, I have an aquamedic 48" ocean light. dual 250watt MH with dual t5 actinics. about a year and a half old. Is there anywhere I can take it do get diagnosed an repaired? I was working on it today replaceing 1 of the bulb fixtures because of corrosion. I got it reassembled, tested it, the bulbes all lit up. so i hung it back over my tank. not an hour later something went pop and my curcuit breaker tripped. I have to work 10am to 9pm tommorrow so i cant have it go pop tommorrow all the circulation will stop. I will take the lights offline for thursday. I paid $800 for this unit and I don't see the sense in buying a new one. Is there anyone who can fix this unit? Thanks, David B.