davjbeas

Add refugium with macro algae or cheatomorphe and run GFO (granular ferric oxide) in a fluidized reactor and make sure there is good flow with no dead spots in the display tank. Also a high quality skimmer will help also. Bulbs should not be over 9-12 months old as last resort you can use ultra life red slime remover. It is reef safe and works but the cyano can come back if the original issue is not corrected. David

Nice Idea- Good Luck David

Nice tank. Is that a sexy shrimp I see in the second picture down? I have seen them in stores but never had one. David

Put super glue on a end of a coat hanger wire insert wire in the hole and let the glue stick then pull out the impellor David

You will need an air dryer for the corona discharge red sea model. The UV ozone generator type does not require very dry air. I will be following along regarding how you will pass the water coming from the skimmer through carbon. I have the red sea air dryer tube with the absorbtion beads if you need it send me a PM. David

I really like the green! What are the tulip looking LPS corals? David

Sent PM

One more thing- Is there a transparent DI resin chamber available? I can't see through this one well enough to watch for the color change. David

Thanks, i understand now. But just to let you know I was running the unit just as it came for about 10 months. The 10 micron sediment filter was installed 2nd from the rightmost chamber. Probably was a assembly mistake. My water quality didn't suffer, but am glad it is all correct now. David

OK, the water first enters the 1st chamber which is 1 micron, then goes to the white filter (felt like filter), then the 5 micron then the DI? David

I am changing my filters today. I have the 4 pack replacement I know the filter on the left side is DI Which of the other 3 is what? I have a white felt like filter and 1 that says 5 micron and one that says 1 micron. I would like to get this task finished today. I did leave a message with AWI but its already after 4 pm and they close at 4: Thanks, David

I don't know if the lighting(old bulbs) is the problem. I have a 75 gallon RR tank with dual 250watt 14K bulbs and T5 Pure actinic. It puts out a lot of light. The clearer the water the further your light will penetrate was my point. I have never used a par meter so I can't get too technical. On my other point regarding prodibio I have no proof but all the frags added in the last 6 months of sps have not rtn or stn in my tank. I will continue to use the product. David

I don't really know your setup, but maybe you could polish your water for better light penetration. Use a canister filter with reef carbon or 5 micron filter or diatomacious earth. Ozone works well for this as well. You could also try the prodibio regimen. David

Can the original poster please elaborate on his concerns regarding marine scenes water? Maybe Tom could have worded his reply more carefully. But I won't hold it against him. The marine scene has been around since I first got into the hobby a long time ago. I remember when Tom came to my house to test my water for me and give advice. No body is perfect. I see criticism on TV all the time talking about what someone said this or that. David

That is a really cool item I got in a group buy a while back. It is a rock shelf held on by magnets on the back of the tank. Here is a link to the website http://www.aqua-mags.com/product.php David

I have been doing new aquascaping and shifting toward mostly SPS corals Here are pics from last night. FTS Right side Middle left side Heres my attempt at mixing red, golden, purple, green digitata. I want to see what happens. I have been doing the prodibio system for quite a while. I no longer need the phosban reactor. David

No, I never did anything about it. Because it has been working fine. I guess the problem was only temporary. David

Eheims part website http://www.eheimparts.com/client/homepage.aspx David

If I can get the rod loose enough to come out I can salvage the whole thing. WD40 is just to get It loose enough to come out. Its no problem to clean the wd40 away and soak in vinegar. David ]

What model number Eheim pump is it? It should say on the back panel. If you have the white rod for the damaged impellor I have the impellor for a model 1250 pump with out the white rod in good condition. David

I am looking for a source of the impeller also. I checked eheim website for parts and they want more than I paid for the pump for a new impellor. I will let you know when I find a good source. David

I just had my eheim pump freeze three days ago. The impeller and the impellor rod were stuck. I soaked the pump and parts in muriatic acid. It cleaned every part of the pump of any calcification however I was to late to save the impeller. The white rod won't turn at all inside the impeller. there is calcification between the white rod and impeller on the inside where i can't get to it. I am going to try some WD40 but I think its a lost cause and I will need to buy a new impellor assembly. Good Luck, David

I have been running 2 modded maxi jets on a reefkeeper 2 wavemaker settings for 6 months no problem they clank a little on startup but work fine. Maxi jets are pretty reliable on standard wavemakers David

Maybe run some GFO. David

Well, you didn't mention kalk paste or boiling vinegar. Berghia nudibranch eats aptasia also. you can remove the rocks and treat them until the aptasia are dead. I use Aptasia- X. David