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WheresTheReef

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About WheresTheReef

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    Gaithersburg, MD

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  1. The manual gives instructions https://apexfusion.com/pdf/acrm.pdf however I don’t have a display so I used Fusion. To calibrate in Fusion you can click the gear right above the PH value/graph. It will bring up the Ph probe configuration page. There you will find an Automatic Calibration button that walks you through the procedure. It’s very easy to use. You will need Ph 7 and 10 fluids. Also a cup of RODI to rinse off the probe between ph solutions. It helps to float the ph fluid packets (before opening) in your sump for about 10 mins to bring them up to temp.
  2. #1 looks more natural to me. It also spreads the rock out to give more space for coral placement. Make sure you have enough space for a magnetic glass cleaner between the rock and glass.
  3. Welcome! Yea always the urge to go bigger. I would take time to learn on that tank to help plan out the upgrade. There is always something you would change if you were to do it all over again. Have fun and keep us updated on your progress.
  4. Very nice pieces you got there. Keep up the great job.
  5. It’s very cool and definitely a gem. Thanks for sharing.
  6. Good start to the build. I personally don’t like putting egg-crate under the rocks as it tends to get lots of crap stuck in the little squares. Looking forward to seeing this play out.
  7. When I saw your tank it all looked great. I would let your corals answer that for you. The main problem might be introduction of new corals which would need to adjust to such high intensity lighting. You could start them in the shade and move them up slowly as needed. Worst case you can raise your lights a little, but I wouldn't make changes unless it truly becomes a problem.
  8. I said nitrite not nitrate. Do you have an ammonia binder like prime? Both ammonia and nitrites can be deadly to your fish. You need to manage it with water changes since the tank is not cycled or at least have enough bacteria to support the bio load. Prime will buy you some time.
  9. Is the tank cycled? Have you tested for ammonia/nitrites? You could try a a freshwater dip to check for flukes in the gills. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/freshwater-dip.248898/
  10. Where are you located? You can bring your wood to my place and cut it here. I have a table saw and 10” miter saw. My table saw is not professional grade, but it cuts straight. I’m available most weekends in Gaithersburg 20879. You won’t find square cut 2x4 that I’m aware of, but you could buy 2x6 and use the table saw to rip off 1” off each side.
  11. +1. I also don't flush it down the sink/toilet either. I prefer to throw it outside. I figure there's enough stuff in the water for sewage treatment already that poison shouldn't be another one. Maybe it doesn't make a difference, but maybe it does.
  12. Looks like most of your livestock should be hardy enough for a large (e.g 50%) water change. Just match temp and salinity before the change. Then go on a regular weekly water changes . I agree You can manually remove the hair algae and vacuum the sand bed. I would avoid any quick fix algae killers if it were my tank. Let the algae consume the excess nutrients and it will eventually starve itself out. Are you running a refugium or scrubber/reactor? It will help in the long run as well.
  13. Why not mix to your salinity before a water change? Parameters would likely be closer to where you want them. Also, if you perform smaller more frequent (e.g weekly 10%) water changes then the effect of mixing to different parameters have less of an impact on the tank. Adjustments would also be smaller with smaller fluctuations.
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