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About WheresTheReef

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    Master Reefer

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    Gaithersburg, MD

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  1. WheresTheReef

    ATO quesion

    You can run it in 2 modes. One requires 2 float switches, the other only 1. Try both modes as it matters where the 2 floats are in both cases. If you are using the 2 switch mode then make sure you have the floats in the correct orientation. You can also swap the float switches to see if the sensor light works the same. If you have a multimeter, you test the float switch. Here is a video that shows how. If your case it is only 2 wires so look around the 3min mark.
  2. WheresTheReef

    Need help calculating salt usage...

    It’s a good start and should minimize fluctuations. You should monitor salinity to verify. Good to monitor more often until you find it stable. I used to monitor weekly, but go much longer now. This is an interesting article http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-08/rhf/index.php
  3. WheresTheReef

    ATO quesion

    Manually move the float switches to see if the expected behavior occurs (e.g. pump turns on/off based on the float switch position). Adding to the recommendations above. The JBJ only runs for a few minutes and then cuts off as a safety measure. Raise the float switch and release it to reset the timer and see if it is pumping water. If so, then manually topoff the tank with rodi and monitor it. If the pump isn’t able to keep up with evaporation then this will keep happening. As Chuck mentioned, although it is called an Aqualifter (if you run this pump) those pumps can’t lift water very much.
  4. WheresTheReef

    Need help calculating salt usage...

    BTW replacing wet skimmate often with new saltwater is a form of water change. It’s just more maintenance than many of us are willing to deal with :). What happens if you go on vacation? Ideally you have the tank stable enough that only fish need to be fed and the tank is ok without daily maintenance.
  5. WheresTheReef

    Need help calculating salt usage...

    My question is why not keep things simple? Skim a little less wet by adjusting the skimmer. Also, where are you getting all that salt creep? Some is normal, but it shouldn’t be excessive to the point that it makes a difference. I would fix the issues and the salinity fluctuations will minimize. Salinity stability is very important to the tank’s inhabitants. If you choose to skim so wet then sounds like you already calculated the volume. Replace the removed water with new salt water (same salinity as your tank) in the same volume. You do not want to add dry salt to the tank so not sure why you want to calculate salt loss. You should mix it beforehand. It is ideal to let it mix for a while e.g. 24 hrs to let the carbon dioxide stabilize which normalizes ph.
  6. WheresTheReef

    ATO quesion

    Can you provide more info? What type of ato is it? Does it use a float switch, optical sensor etc? What exactly is it doing/not doing?
  7. WheresTheReef

    Need help calculating salt usage...

    Any removed saltwater should be replaced with saltwater. We only add freshwater (RODI) to replace evaporated water since salt doesn’t evaporate. Every tank is different, but many recommend 10% water changes each week. Others prefer bigger and less frequent water changes. Find what works for your tank and you and roll with it.
  8. WheresTheReef

    Need help sourcing glass for sump build

    I used them once. Very nice people and everything was cut to spec.
  9. WheresTheReef

    Grafted Millipora

    More info here. https://reefbuilders.com/2019/01/10/the-rainbow-splice-acropora-millepora-from-reef-raft-canada/
  10. WheresTheReef

    Copper levels

    +1 “Milligram per L is a unit of concentration often used for chemicals in aquaria. For chemical concentrations in freshwater, 1 mg/L is approximately 1 ppm (= 1 mg/kg). For chemical concentrations in seawater, where 1 L weighs approximately 1.023 kg, 1 mg/L is approximately 0.978 ppm (= 0.978 mg/kg).” http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-08/rhf/index.php#ppm For the sake of your fish please take caution with copper treatments. Copper is tolerated at certain levels, but it is toxic. Copper should be maintained at 0.4-0.5 as they have been shown to be effective for treatment. Cupramine states that levels up to 0.8 are safe, but that is almost double what is needed for treatment. Just because your fish are not currently showing signs of stress (e.g. not eating, gasping), it doesn’t mean you are not causing harm to them. For example you can cause long term damage to their organs. Treatment in your tank is not recommended. Rock, sand etc can absorb the copper. This not only makes keeping consistent levels difficult, but also may make it difficult to keep inverts in the tank due to leaching. As previously stated, parasites can last longer in cyst form where copper isn’t effective against them. Once you drop the copper concentration in your tank then cysts can still be present. Once the cysts release the parasite then your fish can be reinfected. These repeated treatments of copper will take a toll on your fish!
  11. WheresTheReef

    Maxima Clam Questions

    No expert here, but if you didn't tear out the byssal organ and just tore the threads then it should be fine. I would think that by now you should see some new threads. Is this the case?
  12. WheresTheReef

    not another 120??

    Nice looking tank and stand. Are you going to have a removable skin to hide the sump? Looking forward to this build.
  13. WheresTheReef

    Living Room Nano Peninsula

    Yea pretty much fill them up and leave them in place. I pushed the rods in tight and they aren't coming out. If you were able to remove them then they probably weren't inserted all the way. Maybe I'll silicone mine in to be safe, but I've been running them like that for over a year now with no issues yet.
  14. WheresTheReef

    Living Room Nano Peninsula

    I got my acrylic rod and bulkhead from BRS and they work just fine together for me on 3 different containers. In fact I can't pull the rod out once inserted. Seems like it's losing the seal somewhere. Either at the doser or a connection. If at the rod/bulkhead connection, then maybe it's missing the o-ring. Worst case you can probably put some silicone to seal up the bulkhead-tube connection. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-push-connect-bulkhead-tank-adapter.html https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-clear-acrylic-tube-16-long.html
  15. WheresTheReef

    Copper levels

    You can also look at https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/ as another alternative, but it is much more difficult to find.