Oxy

I stick with Divers Den. I love the What-You-See-Is-What-You-Get (WYSIWYG) aspect long with quarantine procedures the facility has in place. Fish can be treated at the facility from a minimum of two weeks to several months for more delicate species before they are shipped out.

I have two Kamoer 4 channels, one set up as a slave (does anyone else cringe in using that term? Why call it that?). Back to the equipment... easy to set up. I remember the instructions were a bit confusing at first, but got the hang of it. Lots of functionality. On the pricey side, but not a single issue in over 5 years of constant use (hope this didn't just jinx me). I just recently tested it to check the instrument's accuracy to see if it is still calibrated and it is still spot on. But, if it is off you can calibrate it. Can't really go wrong with peristaltic pumps that are created for hospitals.

Early on I had mine near each other. Now they are separated. Seems some folks have been able to, but I wasn't. Their tentacles can be quiet long. Also keep in mind your current flow and if your current allows the tentacles to contact each other, if so you may want to watch it. If the current is moving the tentacles in the direction of other favias, they can be stung. The pic below is from two years ago after I had already separated the two favia corals. You can see that this coral is already stinging the birds nest and encrusting monti above it. The current does push the tentacles in one direction so the soft coral next to it didn't have issues.

If you are concerned about it using diluted white vinegar works well on this stuff. Make sure it is rinsed well before using. Using a little Seachem PRIME helps after the cleaning with vinegar.

Thanks for sharing. I've been using these 5g stackable water storage containers for my ATO for the last three years (which are also food grade): https://www.thereadystore.com/water-storage/water-storage-containersThe Tunze ATO pump fits in easily. They are great to store extra rodi water in as well, so that I always have extra water on hand if needed.

@reefer Here is a full tank shot from today. @starfish The wrasse is doing well. I've had it for about three years now. I'm thinking of adding a second one. Success rate is not so good with them at first, as it is hard to transition them to captive life. Many don't transition well to the time zone and don't eat well at first. This one was my second one, lost my first. Both took to the sand in the QT right away and didn't emerge for over a week. When it did emerge it was off the time zone. Try to get yours to eat as soon as it is out swimming about.

Lovely pics!

Look for threads on cultivating phytoplankton, rotifers, etc. There is also a lot of good info online. Keep us posted as you prepare for and execute your study. There are many on here that would like to follow along.

Hello, I thought I'd share a few pics...

As I was scrolling through the thread, I was hoping to see an April Fool's Day post, since you posted on April 1st. No such luck. Sorry to hear that this happened to you and sorry to see the loss of your critters.

I found this article to be very interesting. It is very long. But I suggest scrolling down the page to see the various topics it covers. It may help you to address some of your questions: http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html I use a combo of T5s and blue LEDs. The blue actinic lights (and blue LEDs) will be able to penetrate to deeper areas of the tank than other spectrum's (same concept that happens in the ocean). My tank is a little over 26 inches deep, I use 6 T5s, and I grow these corals at the bottom of my tank around the sand bed: palawensis, seritopora, monti caps along with the usual lower light loving corals like chalices, favites, favias, duncans and acans. My next attempt is seeing how well deepwater acros do lower in the tank (1 out of 2 from MACNA is still going strong). I tried out ATIs based on the videos below and I do love them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-TbkPJhHkY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OSS_PoUX6o Currently running from front to back of tank: ATI Coral Plus RedSea Actinic (peaks between 440-460nm) RedSea10,000K ATI RB Special ATI Coral Plus ATI Actinic (peak at 425nm and again at 450nm) Blue LEDs: one strip along front and along the back of the lights above (on 24 hrs/day) I have a 10K bulb in the mix for faster growth of corals (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/3/aafeature1). Two different actinics to hit two different peaks in the 400-500nm range for better fluorescence.

Here is the story on the NOAA website: http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/news/feb14/sunscreen.html And a link to the published article, for those of you interested in reading more about it: http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10646-013-1161-y I have sunscreen in my daily face and body lotion, so I always wash my hands before they go into my tank full of sps.

Agree they are nerite eggs. Nassarius eggs look like this

Here are a couple that I picked up

I'm good with my schedule.

6xT5HOs for daytime lights and blue LEDs that run 24/7

Beautiful tank! Agree, bacteria plays a very large role and that is one reason why you hear that it can take a year to establish a tank, partly due to the bacteria levels being established in it. Seems to me there are many factors affecting the color of corals and only looking at one parameter won't get you the results that you want. Yes, nutrient levels are one parameter that matters. But, so does chemistry, currents, lighting, food sources for corals, etc. and maintaining params that aren't fluctuating. Overall husbandry goes a long way on how successful a tank is, beyond nutrient levels. I wouldn't call my nutrient levels successful, by many standards are a little high but I got tired of trying to get them lower and the corals are still growing, so I stopped chasing those numbers and just let the tank be. For colors, I find lighting plays a large role. I get more blue fluorescence from T5HO actinics that give peaks in the 425-475nm range verses actinics that have peaks in the 400-450nm range which give off more green fluorescence in corals. I also find that I get much faster sps skeletal growth on 10k T5HOs then on cooler spectrums. For current, I have a wavemaker that create a back and forth surge and it only runs when the lights are on, not 24/7 (two pumps to sump run 24/7). The acros have had more polyp extension once I added the wave maker, which was a few months back. I've had acros for a year now. I feed my sps corals once a week as well. And this isn't even getting into the chemistry of the tank (water changes and dosing). This is a great thread Ben, would like to hear more from folks.

I will be on the look out for acros in blues and purples. And some deepwater acros would be nice.

Honestly, my nitrates are usually around 10. Always have been around 10. I gave up long ago trying to get it lower and I have a full tank of sps going strong for 4 yrs this October. Haven't tested phosphates lately so I don't really know where they are at currently. Would be interested to see pics of folks tanks at the same time that they post their numbers to get an idea of what is working for folks and the results

It's not on your list, but I have a running thread on ReefSanctuary, here.

The snowflake eel I used to have ate a small clownfish. It took a couple of years of being together in the same tank before it happened. All other fish it left alone (wrasse, trigger, etc.) for the 5 yrs that I had it. I think you would be taking a risk with the mandarin. But, maybe you can try to lessen that risk. Snowflake eels are nocturnal hunters, so keeping it well fed and feeding right before the lights turn off might help keep the mandarin alive (and any small crustaceans that you have). By feeding the snowflake eel right before the lights turn out should hopefully give it a full stomach before its nighttime activities of cruising around the tank. I don't think I'd take the risk. After personally loosing a fish to one.

Top down view of tank

How would we know if our response wasn't good?

It may be slow starting off. Give it time and both should grow faster once they are used to your tank.

I have two 4 channel kamoers. Easy to program. Haven't had any issues yet with them. The Kamoer posted above w/the automatic water change function has piqued my interest....