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About WishNewFish

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    Fairfax, VA

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  1. I did some research on these stands. Not all stands are equal unless they are specifically made for your tank. Some stands expect that majority weight is transferred on the stand where the table top meet the base joints. So if you have a NUVO tank or any tank which doesn't rest over the points where the tabletop meets its base. The tabletop will cave in slowly. I am currently using this bow front stand from Petco: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/aqueon-cherry-bow-front-aquarium-stand My nano is 13.5 gallon and it was able to hold 16 gallons max. Do some research on how the table's support is constructed and also read on multiple sites for user reviews of same model what issues they have encountered with different brand tanks. Based on the price point - the tabletop should be made sturdy enough to hold your 22 gallon but just make sure.
  2. for those of you who are not gratified enough of your horror appetite: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_7ByiYbCYM
  3. I didn't have such experience with LA so far, but in generally I realized especially with Fish, Cheap means High RISK. Unless we have our own QT which offsets this Cheap prices, we are playing the game. Marco's QT and reefescape QT are the only sources I trust and put the fish directly into my DT. The risk is highly multiplied when we are adding one fish bought from these cheaper sources to existing healthy fish in our system. I have personally experienced for myself that the cheaper prices and the cost of QT, fish die in QT and cost/time of existing fish killed is NOT AT ALL WORTHY!
  4. Realized that Valentini puffer is omnivore per liveaquaria.
  5. Another interesting observation I made: My valentini puffer (carnivore) is munching on the lettuce I feed my tangs. Its been doing it since two days. Very interesting behavior swapping in my tank. My tangs harass corals and my puffer eat tang food
  6. It could be a curious ripping or aggression or something. Its definitely not because of food landing on corals. I see my corals still surviving and opening up, so it may not be as damaging as killing the colony. Read online that Hippo tangs have been observed to do this.
  7. Has anyone had experience with tangs and fox face harassing and trying to eat corals? I feed my fish heavy with NLS pellets and mysis shrimp every day. Make sure each of my 13 fish eat. (Except mandarin) First I feed pellets till they stop feeding on pellets and let one or two pellets drop floor., Then I feed a cube of mysis to make sure all fish ate latest a two bites of mysis. I feed nori or lettuce/spinach twice a week as well for tang/foxface/angelfish. Recently I observed my rowdy yellow tang and fox face eat the polyps of pulsing sinularia and clove polyp. Literally mowing down the polyps with their mouth colored with polyps. Never heard or read anything of this sort before. My flame angel, valentini puffer and midas don't bother any corals or other fish. Another thing I observed when I feed nori is that pretty much all fish except valentini puffer and mandarin eats nori. Tang, fox face, flame, royal gramma, chromis, midas and filefish, clowns. Has anyone see this behavior? All my fish are fat as super pigs! literally! they are so belly full they swim funny. But still act like they are starving if I don't feed them nori everyday. Could this be due to recent increase in water temperature to 77F? Im trying to be feed them a tad less so they don't act like spoiled rascals! and keep my water clean. (Thanks to cheatos and strong refugium lights, my nitrates are consistently around 2 ppm and phosphates are undetectable using multiple test kits)
  8. I increased my temp from 74-75 to 77-78 and I see my corals extend polyps like fully!! Down side is my fish are heavily stocked, eats like pigs, active and chasing each other.
  9. On a completely different note, Blue light is disruptive to human circadian rhythm. Looking at deep blue light at night can cause insomnia. https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/blue-light-has-a-dark-side
  10. My responses: I see my tank temperature between (74-76F) most of the time. there are times when is went low as 72 and high as 80. Although I have heater, I disconnected it and my tank is in sync with my home temperature. In summers my home is between (72-76) I might need to plugin in my heater in winter as temperatures begin to drop, but my home temperature never goes below 70 in winter.
  11. I want to see what temperature other members are running their reef tank at: 1. what is the temperature you run your tank at? 2. Does any of you skip the heater all together? (There are always exceptions like large tanks needing chillers due to equipment/light transferring heat, and homes or surroundings of the tank may not support favorable temperatures.
  12. Paul b! I wish I saw your feeder before. I lost my 2 purple queen anthias just because they don't want to eat anything except live food. Moreover they are not that good of a pod hunters either. Only live brine shrimp is what I saw them actively hunting at in my tank. I had my tank/refugium full of cope/amphipods but they could get enough.
  13. Wow! First time I'm hearing about mandarin getting ich. I tried my wits out trying to see if my mandarin would eat anything except pods. Tried live bloodworms, sushi roe, had bristleworms in my tank it never touched. Except pods, live brine shrimp it didn't care about anything else. How big was your mandarin which ate bristleworms and bloodworms? Mine was about inch long female.
  14. puffer fish can help reduce their population. Some had anecdotal success using bumblebee snails. Someone cited chemical treatment: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/here-it-is-fenbendazole-use-against-hydroids.214950/
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