wangspeed

I've used them on my nano. No issues with them, but make sure to get some form of a dimmer so you can adjust brightness to your liking. 100% is almost assuredly too much for night.

As long as it's not under 6" from the tank, I wouldn't worry too much. Yes, mine does have a break in the LEDs where the brace is, but again, I wouldn't worry about it. Even if it shadows a little, it's a chance for you to create natural breaks in the rock work.

It also depends on the density of the rock, as folks have already alluded to. Stuff like pukani will require less lb/gallon than something dense like shelf rocks. I have about 40 lbs pukani and 50 lbs reef saver rock, if you want to take a look at my pics for an idea. Ultimately, it's a personal choice, assuming there is enough flow to support whatever you decide to go with.

Is the 31" length the front? The IT2060 will generally do the trick, but you probably won't have great coverage at the point. I would mount it closer to the front, and possibly even angle it a little towards the point, and rely on white walls to reflect light. Barring that, I think 2 Kessils would be nice too, but more costly.

I have the Reef Breeders version (Photon48) over my 90, and the brace is minimally noticeable. I have it mounted 7-8" above the tank bracing. I wouldn't worry about it too much, and I'd rather go for fewer units. Less to muck with.

Killer deal! However, I still prefer DC controllable pumps, even on skimmers.

I use this spreadsheet to program my Reef Breeders: http://www.reefbreeders.com/uploads/Light_intensity_program.xlsx

Tank is going well, but the controller on my Photon48 gave out. Logan is sending me another immediately. In the meantime, I put up an old T5HO 4 bulb that I used when I grew orchids. Outfitted with mostly ATI aqua blue plus so it looks pretty awful for pics. Otherwise still thrilled with Zeovit. I'll try to take pics when I'm back in town. 2 new fishy additions though. A Labouti and melenarus wrasse. Awful lighting from the bulbs though so the corals look terrible in these pics. -- Warren

I split one outlet on my Apex. No issues so far. The dosers have to be run off the relay controlled ports, fyi. Definitely the only downside of the Apex for me so far.

Nothing will ever beat a siphon overflow setup when it comes to reducing bubbles. Post pics of the sump, and of the skimmer output pipe. Did you put any epoxy in the tank lately?

I haven't read the entire thread, but I just wanted to say it's not an LED issue, other than perhaps the tank is getting more light than it was used to, so you're seeing a new cycle of algae growth, hence the bubbles. Cyano post initial cycle would likely mean not enough flow.

Fishless cycling with ammonia and your choice of bacterial additive. What can I say, I'm impatient.

I have a bottle of ammonium chloride if you need to give it a kick. Read up on fishless cycling. This bottle has lasted me through a nano, my 90, and someone else's nano. Hardly dented.

If you have an Apex, then BRS doser all the way, or Drew's doser from BRS. You can setup safety features on dosing, like watching PH, don't dose if the return stops, etc. Also, it's easy to adjust if you're away, and it's basically impossible for it to accidentally run too long, as long as you're using the right outlets on the power strip.

All 3 options are fine for long term, but GFO will cut it down quickly. Don't go too fast though, otherwise your corals may not be too happy about it. Chemipure is weak as far as PO4 adsorbtion capability goes. Lanthanum is probably the fastest, but I would probably opt for something slower. Zeovit gets a bad rap around here on long term survival of the tank. If you feed heavily, and aren't TOO aggressive with Zeospur, I see no reason why it shouldn't work well long term. I guess I'll find out for myself.

Seachem Matrix Carbon or Zeovit Carbon for me, since I run a Zeovit tank. Most of the others are too aggressive and will do bad things to the tank. Both of these rinse clean pretty quickly, but it's faster if you just dump a bunch of boiling hot RODI on it I would do this outside, fyi.

How big of a problem are you talking about? My Zeovit tank reads 0 on my Hanna, but I also skim heavy and dose kalk, and run a small fuge. Not a typical Zeo setup, but it works.

I would stick with 2 WP40. I have a WP40 and a WP25 both at full blast in my 90. The WP25 is louder though, especially as it cycles through "else" mode. The WP40 is nearly silent. Also like your choice of lights. I run the Reef Breeders Photon48 in my SPS dominated tank, and all is well so far. I'm not going to get into the T5 vs MH vs LED arguement, but I can say that the Photon48 does what I want.

Mine doesn't fully shut off. It's properly installed and only a few months old. I put in a JG valve in addition to it.

There are many RODI kits available from BRS. If you get one of the really low priced ones, it won't include ASOV. For me, ASOV is so-so. I still get water passing by some even when it's supposed to be off. Meh. I end up turning off a JG 1/4 valve when I know my RODI container is full.

Erm, so are you actually 100% sure they are red bugs? Also, FWE isn't going to do anything if they are red bugs. You basically need to keep dipping your corals until they're dead. Given how few you have, this should be easy.

1-2" of caribsea special grade or tropic Eden reef flakes. I have a 90 gallon with a wp40 and wp25 at full blast and no sand storms. Sand looks nicer and my yasha goby, pistol shrimp, and fairy wrasses like the sand. -- Warren

I run the Red Sea blue bucket. Usually a special order around here but the price is reasonable. The seachem can be had on Amazon for even less but you'll need to offset the alk reading on it since there is so much borate. IIRC it throws the reading off by +1. Double check that if you go SCRS though. I really like that both companies are transparent about what they contain and the specs they should mix to. I wouldn't sweat 15% WC with higher alk. You shouldn't budge the overall alk very much. -- Warren

I have a high tech scrubber waiting to go. Juice bottle and soda lime. For now I crack the window since the weather is so nice. -- Warren

What percent of water are you changing out? I doubt it's worth to trouble of bringing the alk back down. Just use it in 10% WC, and reduce dosing til you're out of this salt. There is nothing wrong with 7.6 alk either. That's closer to NSW, and is appropriate for a low nutrient tank. I know you've already done it, but I would not use MA to bring alk down. You are starting to play with fire. In the long run, you should switch to a salt that mixes up like NSW. Red Sea blue bucket, Seachem Reef Salt, etc, and rely on dosing to stabilize.