wangspeed

There's actually a bunch of loose rubble in the front My only concerns are if it will accept the home, and if it will pile up things against the glass. As it stands, there is just enough space for my Flipper cleaner.

No telling if the future fish will take to it. I hope so though. It'll keep him in a prime spot, and away from my Yasha goby. It's 3/4" PVC with holes drilled for circulation. Here it is in progress. More holes were drilled, and rocks to be attached. Almost done! Some of the fish checking out the new condo addition.

Are you running it against an NTP server, like your router? If so, are you sure it's a stable source?

Special grade sized sand works fine for me with my Melanarus wrasse. Working on a jawfish too. I prefer this stuff though: http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/TE-TE03616R30.html You can get it from Petland, Incredible Corals, or order it online. I'm able to really crank up the powerheads and not blow this stuff all over the place, which is great.

I used a 10:1 muriatic acid bath on both pukani and reef saver dry rock. The pukani became extremely fragile, but the BRS reef saver came out great. When the foaming gets slow, I hose the hose off from a few feet away, dump it out, and set the rocks out in the sun. -- Warren

I use a cheap thin nylon mesh sock. Washed once every 3-4 days. I only want big stuff to get caught by the mesh. The rest should be dealt with by the skimmer and fuge. I have another sock, but it only takes me a minute to flip it and rinse it out, so I just stick with one. -- Warren

If you're already near NSW, I'd target 6.5 dkh. If you bring it up beyond that, and you are running low nutrients, you'll end up with RTN/STN. -- Warren

A little beat up from carpet surfing and then getting attacked by the red velvet when I put him back in.

Pecking order had been re-established. He's out but a little beat up with a hole in his tail and some bite marks. -- Warren

My Laboutei jumped out as I was tweaking the return nozzles. I normally have mesh on top. Took me 3-4 minutes to find him, and when I popped him back in, my red velvet fairy wrasse took advantage of the weakness and started attacking vigorously. I threw in some food, put the mirror up, and clouded out the tank with KZ Coral Snow, and the Laboutei is in a tight hole where he can't be bitten. Fishy drama.

It'll turn green if it's too high. -- Warren

I'd be more curious how people are doing this without ruining siding or having permanently cracked windows. I was thinking of making a piece of wood and coating it in epoxy paint and drilling holes, and stuffing the holes with coarse sponge, and attaching the hose to an inside facing hole. Overkill?

Kalk throughout the day is better than 2 part to purge CO2 and raise PH. Agree that a fresh air tube for the skimmer is the cheapest way, but not always convenient or logical. Barring those options, you can get much cheaper absorbent in bulk or even in modest amounts from someplace like Med Vet. Aside from that. I wouldn't worry too much about it dropping to 7.8. Below that you may have issues. Lots of photosynthesis helps too. Buy more coral, grow more algae, or other indoor plants -- Warren

I presume you mean red velvet fairy wrasse. Not a flasher, but mine does flare his fins quite often. Warren

Almost guaranteed to be way high. It's easier to have high alk in a normal tank, as it helps to stabilize PH. Lower alk is a double edged sword in this regard.

I thought it was more complicated than super heating too. Doing a quick search, it looks like 925C to convert, plus a proper cooling procedure.

If you're keeping NSW parameters, 6.5 - 7.5. Alk will naturally lower itself as it is used up.

A proper burner shouldn't put out much CO at all. Mostly CO2.

My gas stove drops the PH dramatically if I don't pop open the window behind the tank.

The Zeo nano kit is missing some of the big things for Zeo, but has some of the nice colorizing. Defintely a nice pack for smaller tanks though. Xtra is a great colorizing additive! I started with it in my nano before I went full Zeo.

1 year before keeping acros is kind of silly... I realize it's probably good advice so that people get familiar with the hobby, but there's no reason you can have successful (growing and coloring up) acros well before that. I have a 3 month old Zeo tank which has numerous acros encrusing and branching. It's more about stability and parameters. NSW levels for me. I agree that running high alk and low nutrients is probably a bad idea.

So I tried dosing Zeospur2 for the second time. The first time I used 1/4 the dose for 100 gallons, and didn't see much of a difference. This time, I went up to 1/2 the recommended dose, and whoah! I can see how people wipe out corals with this stuff. This is controlled bleaching, and the colors that come out are pretty darn amazing. I can't wait to see it in action when the corals are really grown out.

Not possible to recharge unfortunately. -- Warren

Another of Laboutei, who shall always be known as La-booty in our house. A juvie male. Sorry for the crappy stark white light. This was a temporary setup with my old T5HO used for orchids while I replaced the controller on my Photon 48.

A few pics. No FTS though. About 3 weeks old and picking up quite a bit of coralline. It's mounted on a magnet. I move it to clean the glass every few days. A Tubbs, which has pinked out, rainbow monti, and some unknown acan. Tricolor and a stylo that has gone from purple to super hot pink. It's very hard to photograph. Ultra rainbow acan eating some blackworms Meteor shower cyphastrea that is spreading like wildfire. One of the fastest growing coral in my tank. This little guy moves from place to place every few days